Xtremehorticulture

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert

Different Types of Sago Palm (Cycad)

Leave a Comment / cycad, sago palm, species /

Q. Have you ever seen a sago palm that has different types of leaves and fronds? I can’t find any pictures of a sago that look like this.  Also, mine grew extremely fast, in a matter of weeks. I purchased the sago with the original fronds that are dark colored.  The tree had been living about 6 feet from a windmill palm tree.  Do you think it could have crossed? Even if sago palm (cycad is a better term, Cycas revoluta) is located on the north side of a home it still has a browning on the leaflet tips because of our low humidity. This sago palm can handle colder temperatures than other types. A. First of all, the sago palm is not a palm at all. It is just called a type of palm which its not. Each sago palm has evolved different strategies to handle where they are from. There are different types or species and even genera of sago palms. These are based upon their appearance, how big they grow and where they are available. Most are classified as the King sago palm, Queen sago, Queen sago palm and (a totally different genus and species) and the true sago palm to name just a few. The king sago palm, or Cycas revoluta, is the most widely grown type and most commonly available. The king sago palm is quite small, growing only to about 8 feet tall and 8 feet wide, making them small enough to qualify as an “indoor plant”. This is a queen sago palm (Cycas circinalis) is from a large nursery in central India. It is native to southern India and grows about 12 feet tall and 12 feet wide in hot, humid climates.   https://www.naturenursery.in/product/queen-sago-palm/             Sago palms come from a variety of climates but mostly tropical or semi tropical. Lots of different kinds to pick from if you can search online or buy them from out-of-the-way places. I occasionally look at Lowe’s and Home Depot’s garden centers for occasional “deals” but you have to know what you’re buying or at least willing to take a loss if you don’t. Rare sago palms can also be purchased from nurseries online as well as eBay.             All the information is the same regarding the fast-growing sago palms. They prefer to grow on the east side away from direct sunlight or at least in what we call “filtered” or speckled light. They also prefer to grow in amended soils and not in rock mulch. Some of them like warmer climates than others. Each one has evolved differently.             Be careful of fast-growing sago palms or cycads. It usually means they become larger than most others. Most sago palms are characterized as “slow growers”. I don’t know which type you have but some are meant for interiors and not the winter cold outdoors. Be careful unless you know what you are looking for. Use the scientific or Latin name when possible. Sometimes nurseries will confuse them and sell you one that you are not expecting. Even the pros get it wrong sometimes.

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How to Water Sago Palm (Cycad) Once Each Week in the Winter

Leave a Comment / cycad, irrigation, location, sago palm, soil /

Q. Now that our irrigation is only allowed for 1 day, I was wondering if once a week is sufficient watering for my small sago palm. Should I hand water it on other days? Not the readers sago palm (cycad) but it is small! It is in a container so it is more difficult to water than one planted in the ground. The soil in the container is more limited in size than one planted in the ground. A. Hard to say. Depends on how much water your soil around the sago palm holds, where the drip emitters for it are located and the side of the house it’s on. Hard to believe this cycad, or sago palm, is growing in Las Vegas. It was situated in the right location with the right care.            Ideally the drip emitters are located between 12 to 18 inches from the trunk. For large sago palms I would suggest three emitters spaced in a triangle. Run the irrigation system long enough to water 12 to 18 inches deep. you can measure that with something long skinny and hard like a piece of rebar. If the sago palm is smaller, it may need only two emitters to wet the soil to the same depth. Smaller plants don’t use as much water, but the system needs to run just as long. Hard to accept this is the same plant as the one above. But this one is located in the heat of the sun and growing in poor soils.            Plants on the south and west sides of the house or wall use more water faster than those on the east and north sides. A deep watering once a week should be all that is necessary for them in most soils and locations except the hottest.

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Sago Palm Yellowing

Leave a Comment / growing cycad in the hot desert, sago palm /

Q. We have multiple sago palms in our yard and they have all done well for over 10 years. This year all the sago palms are turning yellow (pics below). Especially the largest one. We have not changed any of the fertilizer or care routine and the watering is the same as the previous summers. For some reason this year they seem to be really suffering. Reading online some websites say too much water, others say not enough, some say too much sun, others say not enough fertilizer or too much!  Basically I have no idea where to begin… 😐⁉️We love our sago palms and love the dark green evergreen foliage (they normally have) please help us save these beautiful plants.  A. It is  hard to begin. If they are healthy and growing in good soil they can handle a lot of sun and adversity. If the soil has been depleted (surrounded by rock mulch for instance) they can get quite yellow.  If the roots are drowning and the soil stays wet they can yellow. If they have root diseases (too much water, poor soils or depleted soil) they can yellow. I would nurse them along until October and dig them up, amend the soil, inspect the roots and check for rotting roots, correct the soil/watering problem and replant them. The yellowing created by a lack of fertilizer or the right kind of fertilizer is different from this kind of yellowing. This appears to be stress related. I think it is soil depletion which can be corrected by adding organics back to the soil. Use about a one inch layer of compost applied to the soil around them and water it in. You might also try adding wood chips, not bark, to the soil surface after the compost application.

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Can Sago Palm Grow in the Hot Desert?

Leave a Comment / cycad, growing cycad in the hot desert, growing sago palm in the hot desert, sago palm, will it grow /

Q. I understood that sago palms liked afternoon shade.  Can this plant handle afternoon sun with reflected heat and rock mulch? Sago palm or cycad in planter in desert landscape A. Sago palm or cycads will perform better with less care if they are planted in eastern or northern exposures rather than southern or western exposures. They will survive in your spot but will not look their best. They will grow in full sun and under some very tough desert conditions if the soil is improved, they are receiving the right kind of irrigation and fertilizer and surrounded by wood mulch.  Sago palm growing in partial shade in the desert When grown under these very harsh conditions they usually grow shorter fronds, the fronds are frequently discolored with a yellowish or bronze appearance and the fronds may even scorch or burn at the tips. When these plants are grown in more protective environments they look much better with more succulent growth, longer fronds, darker green with a lot less care. It would be incorrect to say they will not grow under some very harsh conditions but they will perform better and with less management in less hostile environments. Will it survive with rock mulch in an intense desert environment? Sometimes. But it will not have a long life expectancy and not look as pretty. Under rock mulch conditions with very little soil improvement I would give them 5 to 10 years looking okay after they were planted. 

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No Reason to Remove Female Inflorescence from Sago Palm

Leave a Comment / cycad, flowering, pollination, sago palm /

Q. It is my understanding that the ball growing in the middle of my Sago palm is part of its reproductive system. However, since I do not plan on pollinating the plant, how and when can I remove the growth?  Also, can you tell from the images if it is male or female Sago? A. Sago palms come as male or female. The flower or inflorescence of the male is long and cone shaped while the female is flat and disc shaped. That should be easy to remember. Yours looks like a female. Female sago palm or cycad.             Normally this inflorescence is not removed and you let it run its course. I am not sure why you would want to remove it anyway. It is a part of its natural appearance. Here is a nice little bulletin on it from Texas A&M on cycads or sago palm biology. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/Gardening-Handbook/PDF-files/GH-051–male-&-female-sago-palm.pdf

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Sago Palms Damaged in December

Leave a Comment / cold damage, freezing damage, sago palm /

Q. Do white fronds indicate my sago palm has frost damage? Can my sago be saved? Should sagos be wrapped and, if so, do I just cover them when the temperatures drop down to the 20’s but then remove the wraps once the weather warms up? A. Judging from your picture, yes, it appears to be frost damage. Not to worry. The brown fronds are permanently damaged. As long as the central crown is alive (you will know in the spring when you see new growth) then leave it.  I am guessing that it was just warm enough near the rock surface to provide heat to keep the bottom fronds from damage. The center was protected by the fronds around it. The central fronds probably got some cold and wind damage combined.             As the central fronds become older, expand and become more horizontal they will grow above the damaged area. The damaged fronds can be removed by cutting its support as close to the trunk as possible. I would not do this until you see the newer fronds coming in and getting established. Cold damage to sago palm in a previous year from another reader             Of course this leaves the older fronds at the bottom still green. If this looks too funny to you, remove them too after you see solid new growth from the center.             Normally we don’t wrap sagos. You can, but we normally don’t. It looks like yours might be in a tough spot for cold wind and this got those fronds, probably the December 5 and 6 extended cold we had. That extended cold is unusual for us. Maybe every 5 to 10 years.             The timing of the cold, the length of time below freezing combined with some cold winds probably did it. Those are hard to predict. The choices I would say might include moving it to a more protected location, living with that kind of damage every few years, wrapping it, using some plant paint to cover the damaged parts or prune them out.  If you cover it then yes, cover it when temperatures are threatening and remove the cover the next day.

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