Xtremehorticulture

Sap Is Oozing from My Kumquat Limbs

Q. Unfortunately it appears our kumquat trees may have bacterial blast fungus. Our tree appears very healthy and has given us a lot of fruit, but we recently noticed sap coming from the bottom of main branches. What treatment would you recommend? Sam is oozing from the limbs of this kumquat.It sounds crazy but disease stress from management issues can cause sap oozing like this to appear. The KISS rule tells me to look at the soil and watering issues first. A. I usually follow the KISS rules for diagnosing plant problems. Unless we are in a citrus production area, or there is a history of disease on these trees, I first conclude it’s a man-made problem. Regardless, we must rule out the simplest reasons first before we jump to more exotic disease problems.             Root death because soils are kept too wet cause these symptoms on citrus. For this reason, I assume the trees watered too often or there is a water drainage problem in the soil surrounding the roots. Simple test if watering too often issues After the first year of growth, all fruit trees, including citrus, should be rooted firmly in the soil. A simple diagnostic tool helps judge whether wet soils should be a concern or not. Move the tree by its trunk, back and forth, while looking at where the tree enters the soil. The tree should be firmly anchored in the soil and not move it. If tree roots move the soil easily, then the soil has probably been kept too wet and the roots began “drowning” or rotting.              There is a tendency during hot weather to water fruit trees more often, even daily. Most fruit trees, including citrus, prefer at least one day of no watering between watering days. Unless the tree is newly planted, or planted in sand, never water trees daily. Instead, increase the minutes on the clock when you do water. Mulch can add one extra day between irrigations             Anything that shades the surface of the soil during summer helps tree roots function better. Their primary functions regarding tree health are the uptake of minerals and water. They do this better, however, if the surface of the soil is mulched. Woodchips (or even shredded cardboard, shredded newspaper or straw) lying on the soil surface gives fruit trees one extra day between waterings during the summer.             If the soil is not mulched or covered, soils dry quickly and get hot in our summer sun and heat. When soils are wet, tree roots grow where there is a good mix of air and water. Unless the soil has been amended quite a distance from the tree at the time of planting, most of the tiny roots that feed on water and nutrients grow in the top 6 inches of soil.

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In This Case Pruning Paint Might Be the Right Choice

Q. I have a large pine tree in my front yard. I trimmed this tree in the past and had buckets and buckets of sap coming from large limbs that were cut. I may need to prune heavily again this winter. But since I just completed relandscaping under it, I’m worried about all the sap that is going to fall on everything I just put down. I’ll never get off all the sap that will drip on everything!! Is there a way I might prevent or stop the sap from dripping such as pruning paint? Is there anything to save all my hard work from being completely being encapsulated in sap? A. Pruning paint might help in this case and may be worth a shot. Most people in the know no longer recommend pruning paints to cover wounds on trees. They just sanitize it and let it air dry.             The reason for not recommending pruning paint is because research has found pruning paints to be primarily cosmetic and do not assist the tree in healing. Healing is best if the wound is left alone without the use of paints. Topworking an apple tree to a new variety using pruning sealer and nursery tape to seal in moisture until healing is underway.             There is some research that supports the idea pruning paints may actually cause some harm to an open wound. But pruning paint will not kill a tree or severely weaken a tree. Compounds similar to pruning paints are still used in propagation of trees such as grafting and topworking.             In this particular case I would go ahead and try it since the benefits will probably outweigh any negatives to the tree.

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Sap From Plums Not Always Due to Borers Dig to Find Out

Not the readers pic but this is sap oozing from a day old cut plum limb at the orchard just to show you how much they can bleed Q. I have three red plums in my front yard and I attached pictures of them.  These trees were planted in 2003.  One plum has sap oozing out of the tree in 5 to 6 spots on the south facing side of the tree.  I cannot find any holes in the tree where the sap is oozing out.  The other two trees do not have this condition.  I put down systemic insecticides annually and I have sprayed the trunk of this tree every week with Bayer’s Advanced Insect Spray.  I noticed the sap started oozing late this summer. more sap oozing from trunk from reader A. Plums can be a fairly sappy tree and this may or may not mean you have borer problems. Sometimes stress in plum trees can cause oozing sap. However, to find out, you will have to take a sharp, sanitized knife and remove bark and dead wood below the sap. You should do this as soon as you see it next time.             Your picture number three does look like loose bark caused by boring insects. Ultimately boring insects are attracted to trees which are weak or have been weakened or in poor health. Try to leave as much canopy on the tree as possible so that this canopy shades limbs and the trunk as much as possible.             Systemic insecticides for borer control must be used with a great deal of caution when applying them to fruit trees with the fruit intended for consumption even if the label says you can legally apply it this way.

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Italian Cypress Browning Not a Good Sign

Q. Help! My Italian cypress are drying out and dying mostly from the top down and they have their own bubblers for water. Italian cypress with foliage browning A. Major reasons for Italian cypress dieback: Too much water. Water deeply once 3 – 4 weeks in winter and no more than about once a week in summer. Too little water. Sometimes people put these trees on just a few minutes of water from their drip irrigation system. Water should be applied so that it wets the soil down 24 inches to an area at least four feet in diameter around the tree. Depending on how quickly enough water from your drip system is applied this might take up to several hours of applied water. Spider mites. Starts in hot weather because that’s what they like. Usually a problem on trees that were underwatered. Spider mites like dirty foliage. Wash trees with a high pressure hose nozzle after dust storms or a couple of times a year just to keep them clean. Periodic soap and water sprays are not a bad idea either. Webbing in italian cypress may or may not be due to the bad guys Borers. Several people have reported borers in Italian cypress but this has never been a common occurrence in the past. I could not find it reported anywhere else either. Usually a soil-applied insecticide for borer control applied around the roots would be recommended if this were the case. Get your irrigation under control and that should solve most of the problems.

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