Xtremehorticulture

Pruning Lantana

Q. My lantana is about to eat my house! They are 15 to over 20 feet wide each. My neighbors’ lantana are only about 4 feet across. Mine are much too large for the space given to them. Should I cut them back now? Not the lantana written about but to give you a look if you don’t know it. A. You can cut them back now to about an inch. It will leave the area bare and twiggy. There is time for them to grow and fill out again. If you have the time, selectively cut back the bigger diameter stems and leave the smaller ones closer to center. This will leave the newer flowers but reduce its size.             If it does not freeze it will grow from its terminal or side buds and get big. Next year cut it all back to an inch of the soil in early January regardless of whether it freezes or not. This will contain its size. Your neighbors’ plants were probably cut back during the winter.

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Tomato Plants Can Be Pruned or Not, Your Choice

Q. You mentioned it is possible to cut back tomatoes for a fall harvest in hot climates. How far back do you trim them? A. No cutting back of tomato is necessary but sometimes it can help invigorate a plant which has become too large and stimulate more production. Tomato is a perennial plant that can continue to grow larger and larger if there are no freezing temperatures. Tomato sucker coming from a larger stem             Tomatoes are annuals in temperate climates that have freezing weather because of the killing low temperatures. However, cutting or trimming back tomatoes to side shoots can control the size of the plant, keep it more compact, and encourage new growth that will flower and produce fruit. Tomato smaller size after summer pruning             The two key questions are when to cut them back and how. Cut them back at a time when new growth is produced during cooler temperatures that allow for fruit to set from the flowers. The magic temperature that allows fruit to set is between 90 and 95F and lower.  Tomato fruits with sunburn because of intense sunlight after pruning             These temperatures appear in the Fall, usually toward mid to late September. Therefore, cutting them back around the end of August to the first week in September should provide some new growth over 2 to 3 weeks as temperatures cool.             Timing is always a bit of a gamble because we don’t know what the temperatures will be. We can only predict them from historical fall temperatures and experience. Summer pruning tomato for size control             How to cut them back is more difficult to explain. It might be easier to tell you what you shouldn’t do. Don’t cut tomatoes back to a single stem with no side growth immediately below the cut.             Reduce the size by cutting 1/4 inch above side growth. New growth will come from leaf axles, i.e. where a side shoot is attached to a main stem. Tomato growing new side shoots or suckers lower on the stem after pruning             When you are finished cutting back a tomato plant it should look like a smaller version of the original plant with lots of side shoots still remaining. If you cut back a plant dramatically you may need to throw some shade cloth or a light colored and lightweight breathable fabric to provide to some shade and prevent sunburn to the main stems.             After cutting back a plant, lightly fertilize the soil or give it a liquid fertilizer applied to the leaves. Liquid fertilizers applied to the leaves should be done early in the morning or late in the day this time of year. It would be ideal to apply a surface mulch to the top of the soil such as straw, animal bedding, shredded newspaper or grass clippings to preserve soil moisture.

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Tomato Plants Can Be Some Are Pruned or Not, Your Choice

Q. You mentioned it is possible to cut back tomatoes for a fall harvest in hot climates. How far back do you trim them? A. No cutting back of tomato is necessary but sometimes it can help invigorate a plant which has become too large and stimulate more production. Tomato is a perennial plant that can continue to grow larger and larger if there are no freezing temperatures. Tomato sucker coming from a larger stem             Tomatoes are annuals in temperate climates that have freezing weather because of the killing low temperatures. However, cutting or trimming back tomatoes to side shoots can control the size of the plant, keep it more compact, and encourage new growth that will flower and produce fruit. Tomato smaller size after summer pruning             The two key questions are when to cut them back and how. Cut them back at a time when new growth is produced during cooler temperatures that allow for fruit to set from the flowers. The magic temperature that allows fruit to set is between 90 and 95F and lower.  Tomato fruits with sunburn because of intense sunlight after pruning             These temperatures appear in the Fall, usually toward mid to late September. Therefore, cutting them back around the end of August to the first week in September should provide some new growth over 2 to 3 weeks as temperatures cool.             Timing is always a bit of a gamble because we don’t know what the temperatures will be. We can only predict them from historical fall temperatures and experience. Summer pruning tomato for size control             How to cut them back is more difficult to explain. It might be easier to tell you what you shouldn’t do. Don’t cut tomatoes back to a single stem with no side growth immediately below the cut.             Reduce the size by cutting 1/4 inch above side growth. New growth will come from leaf axles, i.e. where a side shoot is attached to a main stem. Tomato growing new side shoots or suckers lower on the stem after pruning             When you are finished cutting back a tomato plant it should look like a smaller version of the original plant with lots of side shoots still remaining. If you cut back a plant dramatically you may need to throw some shade cloth or a light colored and lightweight breathable fabric to provide to some shade and prevent sunburn to the main stems.             After cutting back a plant, lightly fertilize the soil or give it a liquid fertilizer applied to the leaves. Liquid fertilizers applied to the leaves should be done early in the morning or late in the day this time of year. It would be ideal to apply a surface mulch to the top of the soil such as straw, animal bedding, shredded newspaper or grass clippings to preserve soil moisture.

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Some Grapes Require Thinning of the Foliage During Spring Months

Q. After the grapes set their fruit in the next couple of weeks can the vine be trimmed or does it need to grow to provide shade and nutrition to the grapes? A. As long as your vine is growing vigorously you can continue to prune through the summer. You want to make sure the berries are shaded by the leaves to prevent sunburn. These are table grapes. We will go through the vines during the early part of the growing season and pull new growth that we will not need for next year out of the vines. We have to be careful not to pull too much out and expose the bunches. But by pulling growth out of the vines we open up the canopy for better light penetration, better penetration by pesticides that might be applied and reduce shading on itself. Table grapes are much more vigorous than wine grapes.             We trim the vines back several times during the growing season. Usually table grapes are more vigorous than wine grapes. When the vine is shading itself or out of control it needs some pruning or thinning of its growth. This is something new grape growers to the desert discover too late. They think you can grow grapes with trellis systems from more mild climates. Wrong, wrong, wrong. This is a very harsh climate and the sun can be very damaging. Grape bunches must be protected from intense direct sunlight. We will try different types of trellising at the Orchard. A favorite of ours for table grapes is the use of “catch wires” above the double wires used for the the cordons. As new growth emerges from the cordons they are “tucked” on top of the double catch wire above where they provide shade for the grape bunches and reduces sunburn. The new growth is “thinned” so it does not shade itself, is more manageable and thinned for better penetration by light and pesticides (Bt, Spinosad) Use grape training systems that provide crop cover as they are maturing.

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Pruning Peach Trees Now Might Lead Toward Disaster

Q. Our Desert Rose peach tree is eight years old and finished harvesting for the year. We would like to know what branches, if any, we can trim now and not harm the tree or cut off all next years peaches. We have six to eight inch in length branches that come off small branches that have no leaves and appear dead, and we have other small branches that have a six to eight inch span in between leaves that we had peaches on both parts this year. We usually trim what we think is dead or excessive growth wood in January. We thinned the peaches really well, but we lost two, four to eight inch circumference branches this spring do in part to wind and the weight of the peaches. Any information you can provide is greatly appreciated.   A. I don’t know the Desert Rose peach but should be no different than the others.  Any time we are in the hot parts of the summer it is wise to be very careful when pruning.  Pruning at this time should be light at best if at all.  Right now we should be still pruning our fruit trees lightly, removing only new, young shoots that are too close together or shading the leaves too much.  We’re cutting back or removing some of this year’s growth which has been too vigorous.  Do not prune so much that you open the canopy and risk the possibility of sunburn on some of your major limbs.  However, if the canopy is too dense then you should do some thinning of the canopy to allow some light to enter.  If you need to determine if the canopy is too dense, look at the ground under the canopy.  Remove NEW shoots anywhere in the canopy that are growing straight up or straight down. Remove enough so that you see speckled light on the ground through the canopy. Then stop. Removing too much can cause damage this time of year (June/July).   The shadow of the canopy on the ground should be speckled with light.  If it is a solid shadow, then a few small branches should be removed until you see speckling in the shadow.  Only remove a few small branches to accomplish this.  No more.  Reserve the rest of your pruning for winter time when the leaves have dropped.

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