Xtremehorticulture

Sap Coming from Small Fruit Trees Usually Borers

Q. I have some newly planted peach and nectarine trees with sap coming from them. They don’t look healthy. Sap oozing from newly planted fruit trees nearly always borers. A. Borers are most likely the problem. On small, newly planted fruit trees it doesn’t take many borers to kill the trees. They usually “attack” the south or west sides of a trunk or the limb of a tree. That’s where there is sun damage. Painting these trunks and limbs with white latex paint lowers the surface temperature about 4 or 5 degrees. It may be enough in some cases. But shade is better. Borers will usually start to damage the hot side of a tree, either west or south.             The sun plays a role also. Direct sunlight on the trunk of a thin barked fruit tree can be a problem. The “smell” of sunburned and dying or dead limbs and trunks attracts female borers that are looking to lay their eggs, scientists believe. When limbs and trunks of newly planted fruit trees have sun damage, then borers are more likely to be found. This is a locust tree. Borers “smell” or find their way to the sun damaged areas of any tree. Here the top of the branches have been damaged by the sun. The bottom of branches out of sunlight are undamaged.             What to do?  Shade the young tree from Western and Southerly direct sunlight. Paint the trunk with diluted white latex paint. As a last ditch effort, drench the soil around the tree after it flowers (if possible) with a borer systemic insecticide and don’t eat the fruit for at least 12 months after the application. Which came first? Here sun damage eventually led to borer damage.

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If Fruit Trees are Planted Correctly They Can Take the Heat

 Dig the hole three times WIDER than needed. Plant in a wet hole. Amend or mix that soil or bring in different soil. The planting hole is dug three times wider than you need it. Amend or mix the soil with about 20 to 30% of a very good compost. Mix in a good compost when planting. Stake all fruit trees. Make sure the trunk cant move when you are finished. Stake fruit trees, all of them, so the trunk can’t move. Protect the fruit trees from rabbits with chicken wire for the first three to four years if you live near a golf course or an open desert. Put at least two inches of mulch (wood chips that rot) on top of the soil. Three inches is better. Keep it 6 to 12 inches away from the trunk until the tree is six years old. These are wood chips from whole entire trees, not bags of wood bark. Water every other day or every third day, wide and deep.

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Correcting Lemon Mistakes Through Proper Pruning When Young

Q. Your Xtremehorticulture blog is an awesome source of information! I live in Phoenix and question why my ‘Lisbon’ lemon tree is failing after two years. It flowers in the early spring as it should, and produces fruit, albeit, its fruit is nasty and dry. The canopy is about 10% of what it should be, and I suspect sunburn has been choking the plant. I think the tree is a goner and thinking of removing it. ‘Lisbon’ lemon tree grown in Las Vegas and sun damage to the leaves. A. Yes, I think your tree may be sunburned. Give it a chance still. At two years of age, you might be able to nurse it back to health if you follow some easy directions. You live in the northern part of the Sonoran Desert. Las Vegas is in the eastern side of the Mojave Desert. All citrus including ‘Lisbon’ lemon are subtropical; this means the tree, unlike ‘Myers’ lemon, doesn’t survive freezing temperatures very long. And in your case our very strong desert sunlight. As the canopy increases in shade and size, giving more shade to the fruit and the tree itself, the fruit will improve. Guaranteed. Don’t let the fruit overripen before you pick it. That’s a no-no. This citrus tree was limbed up too soon and the trunk may develop sunburn in hot locations. You might be able to get away “limbing it up” like in the seaside and Mediterranean area of Portugal, where ‘Lisbon’ lemon probably originated, but it won’t work in the desert Southwest. Leave the tree shrub-like the first few years until it gets established and then slowly limb it up, making sure the trunk and limbs stay shaded, as it gets older. Citrus with a full canopy but exposed fruit still developed sunburn in Arizona. Make sure the soil has been amended at the time of planting. This is a subtropical fruit tree and requires more organic matter in the soil than we have in most of our desert soils. I would not surround this tree with rock or rock mulch on the surface of the soil. Instead, use a layer of 3 to 4 inches of wood chips keeping the wood chips away from the trunk the first few years of its life. As the wood chips on the soil surface decompose or rot in the presence of water, it will slowly add “organics” back to the soil. Rock doesn’t do that. The last thing to consider is planting the tree on the north or east side of your landscape, or at least 3 or 4 feet away from a hot west facing or South facing wall. It may or may not need it but it can help the tree. All fruit trees need about eight hours of sunlight each day, but subtropical trees can do without the 120°F heat common in Phoenix. If they are in good health, they will withstand the desert heat.

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