Xtremehorticulture

How to Water Your Lawn During Summer Heat

I know that your municipality may have you on water restrictions in the desert. And that is good. We need to manage our water resources.You need to be aware of how to water turfgrass (your lawn) to minimize water waste and optimize lawn health. These are key principles: Sprinklers are designed to apply water when there is no wind.  Wet grass encourages disease. Winds increase after sunup. Heat resistant lawns have deep roots. Sprinklers apply water faster than soils can absorb it. Water lawns when half the applied water is gone. Most home lawns are tall fescue or bermudagrass. Water in the early morning hours before sunrise. Don’t leave grass wet during the night time. This fosters diseases. When the sun rises, winds increase. Winds blow water “off course” and water is wasted. Apply enough water to penetrate 8 to 12 inches. After the irrigation is finished the water should wet the grass roots to a depth of several inches. This waters the entire root zone of the plant. Grass on slopes should receive an irrigation divided into several smaller applications. Most irrigation sprinklers apply water too fast. This water runs off the surface to low spots or into the street. Water delivered several times in smaller amounts has less chance or running off the surface. Irrigate bermudagrass less often but with more water than tall fescue. Bermudagrass can use 25 to 40% less water than tall fescue. It has deeper roots. It should be watered differently than tall fescue.

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Summer Lawn Disease on Tall Fescue Right Around the Corner

Starting usually in late June and through the hottest months of July and August, tall fescue can experience the development of brown spots that can rapidly expand from six inches to more than a foot across. Summer patch, once known as Fusarium blight or Frog-eye, is caused by the fungus Magnaporthe poae. Symptoms start to appear when warm summer weather begins. Brown patches emerge during the heat of the summer, often in conjunction with summer rains and higher humidity. In southern Nevada, outbreaks vary from lawns that are highly maintained to those that are poorly maintained. Symptoms are more pronounced on highly maintained turfgrass. Infested sites seem to be prone to environmental stresses that arise from heavy thatch accumulation, mowing turfgrass too low, high nitrogen fertilizer schedules, light and frequent watering schedules, compacted soils and poor drainage. The disease can be spread by maintenance equipment and infected plant material. Even though drought seems to encourage its development, it is frequently found in wet locations. Obviously any type of management that reduces turfgrass stress during the hot summer months will help to curtail development of this disease. Appropriate fertilizer applications, aeration, removal of thatch, deep watering, and mowing higher will go a long way in preventing this disease from occurring. Chemical treatment is an option for summer patch control but the key is to start early. Appropriate systemic fungicides should be applied beginning when night temperatures remain above 70° F. Using the wrong fungicide or high nitrogen fertilizers may actually aggravate the problem. Symptoms The disease organism survives from one season to the next on diseased roots and stems from the previous year. The development of summer patch is highly dependent on the right environmental conditions. Elevated soil temperatures (75o to 85o F) and high soil moisture provide an environment where the disease is more virulent. Disease starts as scattered light green patches 1 to 5 inches in diameter as pathogens attack the roots and crowns of susceptible plants. In the early stages, young roots may appear healthy, although dark brown hyphae may be present on these tissues when seen under magnification. Vascular discoloration and cortical rot occur as the disease progresses. Damage to roots, crown and stem by the disease restrict water uptake and plants begin to appear drought stressed. By midsummer, plants with increasing levels of infection die due to heat and drought stress resulting from their damaged roots and stems. At this stage, roots and stems of plants showing dieback have a dark brown rot. Circular or crescent shaped patches of dead and dying plants are formed by the spread of the pathogen, root to root, from an initial infection site. Several of these patches can coalesce into a patchwork of dead grass in a serpentine pattern, scattered with clumps of healthy grass.  Patches of dying plants create doughnut shaped depressions that can grow to two feet across and turn dull tan to reddish brown and give the affected area a pockmarked look. In some cases, an apparently healthy green patch of grass will be completely surrounded by a ring of dead grass creating a “frog-eye” appearance. In advanced stages where large patches may appear entirely dead tufts of green grass frequently remain in the dead grass, remnants of the earlier “frog-eye”. Since the pathogen survives in infected root and crown tissues, the disease is likely to reappear next year in the same areas with increasing intensity. New patches may be formed after the transport of contaminated roots or root debris from turf maintenance equipment such as power rakes, vertical mowers and aerators. Preventive Management. To minimize the risk of summer patch, it’s helpful to minimize stress on the lawn. Primary stresses include excess thatch, inappropriate fertilizer or incorrect timing of fertilizer applications, high temperatures, low mowing heights, and soil pH extremes. Always apply a balanced N-P-K fertilizer and don’t apply any fertilizer during the June-August stress period. Fertilizers should be applied at half rates as needed. You don’t want the turfgrass underfertilized or overfertilized which may add to stress or increase susceptibility. Avoid heavy early spring and summer applications of fertilizer high in nitrogen. Develop a fall fertilization program supplemented with a half rate summer fertilization program. Deep water prior to summer heat to encourage deeper root systems. Seed heat tolerant perennial ryegrasses such as Palmer, Prelude and Brightstar. Syringe (short applications of water) during the heat of midday during July and August. Core aerate in early fall or mid spring. Remove thatch by aeration, vertical mowing or power raking. Increase mowing height to 3 inches during the hot summer months. Susceptibility to this disease increases as mowing height decreases. Overseed with improved cultivars. When summer patch is severe or when fungicides are not an option then the only remedy is fall overseeding or resodding after the disease has subsided. At this time there are no tall fescue cultivars that have been identified as resistant to summer patch. Treatment with Chemicals. Fungicides may be required for control if summer patch has been a problem in previous years. Apply treatment 3 to 4 weeks before symptoms are likely to occur in late spring when temperatures are in the 65° to 68°F range. Systemic fungicides such as Rubigan, Banner or Bayleton should be applied when night temperatures don’t fall below 70 F. Irrigate after application. Apply fungicide starting in June occur in late spring when temperatures are in the 65° to 68°F range. Systemic fungicides such as Rubigan, Banner or Bayleton should be applied when night temperatures don’t fall below 70 F. Irrigate after application. Apply fungicide starting in June. If this is too difficult, look for a product that says it controls Fusarium blight or summer patch and follow the directions for application precisely. The label is the best source of information. It is NOT a bunch of bologna. They want it to work so you will buy it again and recommend it to others. Remember, nearly all fungicides are PREVENTIVES, not curatives. Fungicides normally protect the

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Fall Lawn Replacement in the Hot Desert

 Upper surfaces of grass blades can help identify which type of grass it is: L to R, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and tall fescue  Q. I need advice. We planted about 100 square feet of sod a couple of years ago. It had been doing quite well. I believe it was over fertilized 5-6 weeks back.. It is now very brown and not responding to watering. I plan on replacing it with new sod once it cools down. My question is, can I put the new sod over the old or pull out the old and re-prep the sub base? Any advice would be appreciated. Sod removal using a sod cutter A. You didn’t say what kind of sod it is but I am assuming it is tall fescue. Tall fescue represents about 98% of all lawn grasses in the Las Vegas area due to its tolerance, for a cool season grass, to our high summer temperatures. Before you do anything make sure it is dead. Tall fescue can appear dead but if you see any green at all at the base of the dead grass then it may just have died back. Tall fescue is very drought resistant even though it uses a lot of water. It can dieback when water is not available and sit there for quite awhile appearing dead and then re-emerge from grass that looks dead and start growing again. This might take a couple of weeks of applying water after it turned brown. It might then be a bit sparse and you may have to seed into the grass again to get it to fill in those bare areas that didn’t make it. Power rake, aka dethatcher aka verical mower used for removing thatch, slicing stolons and improving water penetration to turfgrass or lawn. However, if it did turn brown due to a heavy fertilizer application then that is salt damage and tall fescue is not all that good in its tolerance to salt and then it is very probable you are right. You have two alternatives in replacing the sod. One is to rent a sod cutter and cut the old sod out leaving behind a ready made surface for resodding. Or you can try digging it out by hand and leveling the surface in preparation for the new sod. A lot of work. You will not be able to put new sod on top of the old sod. The old sod will leave an “interface” that will cause all sorts of problems for the new sod. There is still yet another alternative worth considering. The dead grass is a perfect seedbed for seeding a new lawn. In about late September to mid October mow your dead lawn as short as you can and use your bag on the mower. Don’t mulch the dead grass back into the dead lawn. Next rent a power rake, sometimes called a dethatcher, and dethatch the dead lawn deep enough (you can adjust it) so that when you make a pass or two you can see soil between the dead grass blades. It is important to see bare soil throughout the dead lawn. Patchy look to a lawn when a coarse textured grass is seeded into a finer textured grass. An example would be seeding K31 or Kentucky 31 tall fescue (a pasture grass) into bluegrass or even a turf-type tall fescure with a finer texture Purchase good quality tall fescue grass seed, 100% tall improved tall fescue and not Kentucky or K31 tall fescue, the cheap stuff. Apply a starter fertilizer such as 16-20-0 or any fertilizer high in the middle number(in this case 20) but having some of the first number (in this case 16). Seed at about 10 to 12 lbs of seed per 1000 square feet and topdress it with topdressing or steer manure with NO MORE than about 1/8 inch of topdressing. It is best to do this with a roller for applying this stuff. You can rent one from most rental places. Irrigate about three times a day for a few minutes each cycle. Irrigate long enough to wet the topdressing but not long enough to cause it to run off of slopes or puddle. Do this about 8 am, 1 pm and 6 pm. Your biggest challenge will be keeping the pigeons and other birds off of your seeding. Reduce your watering to once a day when you see grass emerging usually in 7 days or less. A wild idea would be to not use tall fescue but a different grass seed that has high tolerance to heat in our area and a much softer feel to it. These are the heat tolerant perennial ryegrasses. They are superior to tall fescue in feel and water use but you have to get the right kind of perennial ryegrass. Some perennial ryegrasses are very heat tolerant and others are not at all and will burn up when it gets hot in the summer. One of the best of the perennial ryegrasses is a combination of Palmer and Prelude perennial ryegrasses. It has been used on golf courses for nearly 30 years now here and does very well in the heat. You can mow it short as close as ½ inch or less (if you seed at the right rate for this kind of cut) or even up to two inches. It is soft to the touch, unlike tall fescue which has tiny hooks on the edges of the leaf blades that can cause “itchiness” some people think is an allergy which it is not. The problem is that it is only available in 50lb bags. This seed blend is available in Las Vegas from Helena Chemical Company but it will be pricey in that quantity. I could not find it on the internet in smaller quantities.

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