Xtremehorticulture

Why Is My Pine Tree So Sparse?

Q. Why does my one pine tree seem so sparse and inadequate?  I purchased four Mondale pines and treat them all equally. But the one shown in the left picture looks so scrawny.  The other one shown looks healthy and appears to be robust.  Any thoughts on that?  Aleppo pine blight A. The usual reason for a pine tree being sparse and not full is that it is not receiving the same treatment as the others. I have to assume the picture you are painting for me with words is the same one that I am seeing and understanding.             When you say the tree is ”sparse or inadequate” this, to me, means that there are far fewer needles along the branches of this tree compared to the branches of other trees. Pine trees generally maintain needles on their branches until the wood gets to be three to five years old and then the needles are dropped from this older wood. This older wood is needle-less except for other small branches growing from it that are less than five years old.             The reason for thinning is that there is not enough young growth covering the entire tree so that needles are lost at a higher rate than they are being replaced. If you were to look at the growth of the youngest branches you can actually see each year’s growth for several seasons and count back several years of growth on one branch. This gives you an idea of how much growth a tree is putting on each year so that it can be compared to the other trees.             So bottom line for “thinning” is that the tree is not growing fast enough (or putting on enough new growth). I know that this seems a bit simplified but we have to start at the simplest point if we are going to try and figure it out. Reasons for thinning include water, fertilizer, damage to the tree, or disease or insects. So let’s follow the keep it simple rule first and handle the most frequent and common reasons. Once we have eliminated these then we can move on to the more “exotic” answers. Pine tree dieback due to shading             By far the most common reason is differences in the amount of applied water or water available to the plant. So when you say you treat them the same it does not necessarily mean these treatments are all reaching the trees equally. But if there is inadequate water two things will happen; the tree will put on less growth and the needles will be partially brown from the tips.             The first thing to do is to check and make sure that whatever is delivering water to the tree is not plugged. Secondly make sure that water applied to the base of the tree is not running off the surface to some other location. Just because water is applied to a tree does not mean it is getting to the roots.             Remember that as these trees get bigger their demand for water increases. The increase is not a simple few gallons per year but rather the increase is much more dramatic because trees are three dimensional in their water use unlike a lawn. A lawn doubles in size then its water use doubles. When a tree doubles in size its need for water is probably more than double.  Pine tree thinning due to lack of water             One tree showing signs of water stress might be an indicator that in the next few years the others may also show the same signs. What you are seeing is a snapshot in time and may not indicate what will happen in future years if all things remain the same. As a precaution, I would start to increase your water to the trees and supplement the thin tree with some water from a hose to see if there is a difference.             The next most common reason is that the roots of the tree in the container never fully established into the surrounding soil after planting. This can be because the tree was too old for the container and the roots started circling inside the container.             It can also be because the tree was not firmly staked at the time of planting so the root system doesn’t move. You should be able to push on the trunk and NOT see any movement of soil at the base of the trunk.  Mondale pine dieback due to unknown, nonpathological problem             If you see movement of soil then the tree most likely never successfully transplanted from the container into the hole. If the tree moves easily in the soil then it is difficult for them to ever get established and most likely never will if it has been five years and they haven’t.             Trees need to be firmly staked when planted to immobilize their roots and give them a chance to get established in the amended soil surrounding the container roots. If this is the case you are better off getting rid of it and replanting.             A third possibility can be that it was planted too deep. If planted too deep the tree can die fairly quickly in one season or linger for several years due to damage to the trunk from disease organisms.             Pull the soil away from the trunk and see how deep the first roots are. They should be no more than perhaps half an inch from the soil surface. Sometimes soil can fall back into the hole after planting, the plant can sink in the hole (this is why I tell people not to dig the hole deep but rather wide) or mulch can be pushed up against the trunk when it is young causing a disease called “collar rot” to develop.  Pine tree damage due to weed killer ie herbicide (dicamba)             The next most common reason is damage to

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The Problem I Warned About on Pruning Pine Trees Just Happened

 I said it might happen and it did. http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2011/09/problem-with-pruning-pine-trees-so-they.html This pine tree has a limb that broke in a windstorm not too long ago. It is just at the bottom of the trunk. Thinning pine trees by removing smaller limbs from larger limbs (thinning the canopy) is NOT a good idea. This has been a relatively recent trend in tree trimming (I do not want to call this arboriculture) is done to reduce the potential that trees will blow over in high winds. Instead, thin the canopy  by removing entire limbs from the trunk to reduce wind damage and blowover . Here is why. Plants grow both in length (called primary growth) and width or diameter (called secondary growth). When secondary growth occurs along a limb or trunk, progressively, as it get longer, then the limb or trunk exhibits “taper” or a gradual increase in girth along its length. This is good unless you are growing trees to use as telephone poles or for lumber. A plant develops taper along its trunk or large limbs if the trunk or limb can bend freely in the wind as it is growing. The free movement of the tree trunk or limbs increases the degree of taper. If the trunk or limb is held so that it cannot move (staking so no movement occurs), primary growth increases but its growth in girth (consequently its degree of taper) decreases. Here is the limb that broke Taper also inceases if smaller, lower limbs are left attached to a limb or trunk. These smaller limbs, with leaves attached,  send carbohydrates manufactured in the leaves or needles back to the limb or trunk. This helps “feed” secondary growth causing more taper at areas closest to those small limbs. A distribution of smaller limbs along a trunk or limb causes an increase in its degree of taper. On the other side, removing these smaller limbs along a trunk or limb REDUCES the degree of taper. The limb that broke is in the center of the picture. Notice how little taper the limbs have. Leaving all the growth at the ends of the branches also causes the limbs to have a “weeping” effect. When a trunk or limb bends, and it is tapered, the stress of the bend (shear) is distributed along a great deal of its length. If there is little taper to a limb or trunk, then the stress is localized at a very small portion of its length. When a limb is not tapered, the stress of bending causes the limb or trunk to “snap” (shear)  at its weakest part or where the majority of the “load” or stress is localized. Here are three principles to follow to increase taper in a tree: 1. When planting a tree, make sure stakes are located as low on the trunk as possible. Tree stakes should keep the rootball or rootsystem stabilized, not the entire trunk. The trunk and limbs should be free to move in the wind if possible. 2. Remove stakes as soon as possible after the root system has become established. This should normally be one season or less. If it is longer than this then you may have a problem. 3. Leave smaller limbs attached to the trunk for three to five years if they are healthy and vigorous. Try to maintain a ratio of canopy length to pruned trunk of at least 2:1.

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April Todo at the orchard

Unthinned peaches might look like the bottom picture but after thinning it should look like the top picture, fruits about four inches apart. Thinning is at the top of our list of things to do. We have been thinning peaches for the past three weeks. Thinning is now to include plums and plum relatives like pluots and the Keifer pears. Delta type pheremone trap With these warm temperatures we need to check to see if peach twig borer is flying (pheromone traps) and replace the sticky surfaces and the pheromone capsule. Tomorrow is not an irrigation day but if the plots need irrigation then irrigate the plots. It is important right now to make sure the garlic and onions are not stressed or the garlic may not size up properly and the onions may not get to a good size as well. Dieback of new peach growth due to peach twig borer. Later it can get in soft fruit. The orchard phone on the computer now seems to be working well. The number for the orchard is 702-257-5532. Asparagus will need to be harvested. When harvesting please remember the next harvest day isn’t for three days so we need to harvest the spears accordingly. At 90F the spears may grow an inch a day if there is enough water. Todo • Thinning peaches, nectarines, plums and Keifer pears • Harvest asparagus • Add drip for hops and plant hops • Irrigate vegetable plots where needed • Spray nectarines with insecticidal soap/spinosad for thrips control • Weed vegetable plots • Remove suckers from trees

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