Xtremehorticulture

Sweet Bay Tree May Struggle During High Summer Temperatures

Q. Sweet Bay trees (Laurus nobilis) border our property on all 4 sides totaling about 35.  They are now about 15 feet tall with 5″ trunks.  We have lost trees in the past from under watering.  How many gallons of water should each of these trees receive on the winter watering day? Bay Laurel leaves A. You may know Dr. Devitt from UNLV and I published research articles on water use in the past in numerous research journals. Plants are extremely variable in water use depending on their type, size, where they are planted, and how they are grown. We published a book on irrigation of trees, and it is available on Amazon. You will get many different responses on plant water use depending on who you talk to. However, we do know this: the more trees present, the more water is needed and the bigger the tree is, typically the more water it uses. Conversely the way to reduce water use is to plant fewer plants, use open spaces in creative ways that don’t require water and use desert trees that mature into a smaller size. The picture above shows a mesquite tree with a 20 foot diameter canopy (left) and an apple tree with a 20 foot diameter canopy (right). The mesquite annual water use would be about twice that amount (4600 gallons each year) and the apple about twice that amount (13,600 gallons each year) as well. The water savings is in how often water is applied (frequency of irrigation). They both need water applied to wet their roots to the same depth (the minutes are the same in the same soil) but the mesquite water is applied less often. The soil become drier between irrigations. That means they should be on separate irrigation valves (hydrozone). https://leafnetworkaz.org/Water-Resource-Strategy To roughly estimate tree water use, assume trees are divided into three categories; very low water use (e.g., foothills palo verde @ 0 to 2 feet of water), medium water use (e.g., vitex and bay laurel @ 2 to 4), and high-water use (e.g., mulberry and poplars @ 4 to 6). Moderate water use means it uses from 2 to 4 feet of water (applied under its canopy) each very year. FYI, tall fescue lawns use between 7 to 8 feet of water in this location and soil. It has shallow roots and NOT a desert plant to look good. I recommend applying this amount of water to at least half the area under its canopy every year. (The reason I say half of that area is because I am realistic when it comes to home watering and know that people will not apply water to a the 20 foot diameter area needed by trees with a 20 foot diameter canopy!) When water is applied each time, apply it so that the soil becomes wet to a depth of 18 to 24 inches. If water is applied to half the area under a bay laurel tree (20 feet tall) so that half of this area is wet, one tree will require from 9000 to 10000 gallons of water each year. The same area covered by a lawn requires about double that. Desert trees like the mesquite will be watered again just before the leaves will drop or as the tree canopy begins to thin out. That’s your signal to water! During summer heat with desert trees like mesquite that might be once a week or once every two weeks. During the winter that might be once a month or once every two months. The deep roots will take over water uptake when the upper soil gets too dry.

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How to Water a Landscape With Two Valves (One front, one back)

Q. I have a LOT of different shrubs and trees on only 2 valves (front & back). The shrubs have 2 emitters per shrub and range from 2- 2gph for plants like photinia, red autumn sage, fountain grass, jasmine vines, rhaphiolepsis etc.; and  2-4gph on euonymus, abelias, boxwood, honeysuckle vines etc. The trees have more emitters. My landscaper told me to water 6 days per week for 2-20 minutes per day (equals 4 hours per week). Star nursery advised me to water only 3 times per week for 45 minutes per day. Plant World advised 6 days per week. So, what to do?             My biggest problem is my 8 year old magnolia tree, trunk diameter about 5″, has 4-4gph emitters. It used to be very full, now it’s about 10 ‘ high & the leaves are dark brown, dry and falling off.  All help would be appreciated. A. You even confused me. In their defense I would have to say it’s possible that all three could be right. Because plants are adaptable to different situations there can be several right answers to one irrigation question. Nurseries are there to provide service, the best answers they can muster up. I am an educator so let me take a stab at it from an educator’s point of view. I would like to give you enough information so you can solve your own problem with irrigation. But you I think already realize that this is not the best irrigation setup for conserving water. You will have considerable waste even though it is on drip irrigation just because you have so few valves. Bear with me on this. Let’s all agree for the most part that as plants get larger they will require more water. Let’s also agree that large plants will use more water, and considerably more water, is one smaller plant. The larger the plant, the more water it should receive. Irrigation valves are basically an on and off switch for water; when the valve is open, water flows. When the valve is closed, water stops flowing. Since you have one valve in the front and one valve in the back, these switches open water to all of your plants in the front at the same time and the valve in the back does the same for plants in the back. There are three basic questions that must be answered; 1) how long to water, 2) how much should be applied, and 3) when to apply it. The valves basically solve the question when to water. The drip emitters solve the question about how much to water. Irrigation clock answers the question when to water. The irrigation valves allow water to flow and the emitters determine the amount of water applied to each plant. The length of time the valve is open combined with the size of the emitter determine the amount of water delivered plant. This is where the confusion begins. To make it as easy as possible to irrigate let’s hold one of these variables constant. Arbitrarily, let’s hold the length of time the irrigation valve is open to one hour. Just for the sake of argument. It could be 30 minutes, it could be 90 minutes, but let’s just hold it at 60 minutes. If we make this decision first, how many minutes to open the valves, it can make our other decisions much simpler. So we now agree the valve will be open for 60 minutes for drip emitters. This is how I typically determine an irrigation schedule for drip. To determine how much water each plant will get we have to size our drip emitters. Because of plugging, it can be a little bit dangerous to give plants only one emitter. If that’s emitter plugs, chances are we will lose the plant in a short period of time during the summer. To determine how much water to give the plant at each watering or when the valve is on we look at its size. The smaller plants of course require less every time the valve is on. So for the sake of argument let’s do this. Let’s give a plant 1 gallon of water every time the valve is open (in this case one hour) for every foot of its mature size. A very small plant may get 1 to 2 gallons. A medium-sized plant may get 3 to 6 gallons. A large shrub may get 8 to 15 gallon every time it’s watered. The larger the plant, the more emitters it will need under its canopy. A very small plant may require one to two emitters. A medium sized plant might require 3 to 4 emitters. A large shrub might require 6 to 8 emitters. So now you will take the number of gallons you are giving this plant and divide it by the number of emitters you will provide for each plant. When you do this, you will determine the number and size of the emitters you will give to each plant. So for instance a medium sized plant may get 3 to 6 gallons at each watering delivered by 3 to 4 emitters. So the size of the emitters might be 1 to 2 gallons per hour. But I would keep all the emitters going to one plant at the same size. So what if it’s one or 2 gallons more than you calculated. What is important is that you apply enough water during one irrigation to water the entire rootzone of each plant (plus a little extra to keep those salts in our city water flushed out of the rootzone). So now we have answered two of the questions; how long to run the valve and as a result of that how much water each plant will get because you have selected the correct size and number of emitters. The next and last question is probably the most difficult to answer. Remember, you have elected to set the time that the

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Think Twice About Planting Pecan in the Desert

Q. We want to plant a pecan tree. Would you please recommend one for Las Vegas? If we plant one, can we cut it way back and keep it small like we did our other fruit trees? A. Think twice about it. Pecan is a big tree requiring lots of water. If you want to proceed, then pick a Western variety that is self-fruitful and low chill such as Mahan, Mohawk, Tejas or Western Schley.             Pecans are so big that cutting them back may result in a tree that is about 2/3 of its mature size, maybe 60 to 100 feet tall, but you will not get it much smaller than this. The reason you can keep trees like almonds and pistachios small is because they are not big trees to begin with. The larger fruit trees, like apple and pear, are usually put on dwarfing rootstocks.             Pecan is a big tree and is not on any dwarfing rootstock so it will be hard to keep its size small. Pecans tend to get anywhere from 70 to 150 feet tall and can have a 6 foot diameter trunk. Normal spacing between pecans is 60 feet apart. Estimating Water Use for Pecan Trees

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