Xtremehorticulture

Pahrump Fruit Tree Selection Similar to Kingman and St. George

Q. We recently moved to Pahrump. Nevada, What recommendations would you give for fruit bearing plants other than pomegranate and fig? We get some cold nights in Jan and Feb. I posted this climate information from the Internet for Pahrump, Nevada, USA. I was disappointed. The weather can get much colder than this in the winter (down to 10F easily) and hotter in the summer 110F plus. Its saving grace is its elevation which makes it colder than Las Vegas 75 miles away. Plus it does not give much information on the wind which can be brutal during low temperatures and high temperatures. It is on the doorstep to Death Valley. A.  For sure apples and pears, most of the plums will be fine. Take a look at the possibility of sweet and tart cherries and apricots. Although your weather might be too dry for a good fruit set.  There is an active gardening group in Pahrump with many of the active with Cooperative Extension horticulture there   https://www.facebook.com/Pahrump-Master-Gardeners-420253654687416/ Contact them for more specific advice. They have an active Farmers Market during growing times of year https://www.facebook.com/PahrumpFarmersMarket/ You should relate closely to…gardeningwise…. Kingman, Aarizona, and St. George, Utah, as well. Both cities have active gardening groups closely tied to their respective Cooperative Extension offices in Kingman and St. George.   Fruit trees that flower earliest should be planted on slopes. Fruit trees that flower later can be planted in the lower elevations. Remember microclimates and cold air drainage can be a game changer. I can make general recommendations for that climate but it varies even more with your local microclimate. There will be colder areas and warmer areas in the valley due to wind and cold air drainage. Cold air is like water…it drains to low spots. Low areas will have late frosts in the spring and early frosts in the fall. In those areas season extenders such as low and high tunnels aka greenhouses without heaters or cooling pads…would be advised. Select fruit trees in these areas that delay their flowering in the spring as much as possible.   The area protected on the leeward side of a windbreak can be divided into three sections designated here as A, B and C. The area a closest to the windbreak has wind of modified the most, a short distance equal to about 1 to 2 times the height of the windbreak. Area B is modified but less; up to about five times the height of the windbreak. And the sea is modified even less up to about eight times the height of the windbreak. This is why windbreaks should be planted close to the area needing protection. Consider windbreaks to protect the gardening areas. These windbreaks should be very close to your planted area and NOT planting tall trees along the perimeter of the property as so many people hsve done out there. Its a waste of water. The wind is broken up to a distance of about five to eight times its height. Big trees require more water so planting on the perimeter uses alot of water and you get very little benefit from them. To me it looks like a prison, although prettier than fencing.

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Living Windbreaks Use Water – A Major Concern in the Desert

Q. We just moved from Las Vegas to Pahrump We bought a home on an acre of land – I’d send a picture but – to be honest  – its just bare high-desert land As far as we know Pahrump is considered Zone13 (Sunset). We would like your advice on trees for wind barriers. We have been told by locals that there are several pine trees that would make a good wind barrier. Judging by the look of the town, most properties have planted the pines around the perimeter of their properties. After reading SNWA desert planting ideas and other high-desert websites, we thought we would start with the pines and then layer from there (inward) For example:pines fruit or other shade trees large bushes or grasses edible and low bushes finally, low growing plants.  We want to encourage birds, hummingbirds and butterflies and we will add raised beds for veggies. Could you give us your advice on the types of pines and other trees that would grow in this area. Could you please comment on the layering plan or give us some indication which direction we should head? A. I would refer you to a fact sheet I wrote a couple of years ago which can be found at http://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ho/2006/fs0688.pdf It basically says that the windbreak will affect an area downwind equal to about five times its height. Windbreaks need to be multilayered when possible with a combination of trees and shrubs. A variety of plants, not just one kind, is more desirable. The biggest mistake I see done in Pahrump is putting a big line of trees right on the border of their property. It just does not make any sense to me. If they need a fence there is a lot of things you can build that don’t require water. If it is a windbreak then it is too far from the living area to be very effective. You need to answer the questions where does the wind come from that you are trying to stop. What time of year is it a problem. Design your outside living area first. Then go ahead and place your plant materials for screening, visual barriers and windbreaks. Windbreaks integrated into your landscape can use smaller plants. Remember big plants use more water than little plants and if you put a whole bunch of trees on the perimeter of the property what good does that do except use up a bunch of water unnecessarily. Plants need to be concentrated near living areas and they need to be part of the outside living area, usually defining the “walls” and “ceilings” of these spaces. Fences on the perimeter of the property may be expensive at the beginning but they are lower maintenance and use less water than a living fence on the perimeter. In the fact sheet I purposely stay away from recommending plant materials. There are plenty of places that can recommend plants for your area including your local garden club, nursery and extension office. The extension office in Pahrump has a great little garden area that demonstrates some plants for the area. They have lists as well. Basic recommendations for trees for the desert are to keep them in scale with the house and property, and put them where they will do the most good and you can appreciate them. Every plant you put in the ground should have a good reason for being there. This is the desert and water is precious. I hope this helps a little. this is a big topic to cover.

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