Xtremehorticulture

Joshua Tree Survival After Transplanting

 Q. We have a few Joshua trees on our property. We planted three more that were relocated from Arizona and had the proper permits. They didn’t do well so we dug them up and saw root rot. Does it make sense to cut away any damaged rot? Or perhaps you have a better suggestion all together. Joshua trees taken from the desert should be small or established in the container before planting. A. My experience with native Joshua tree survival after transplanting is that the larger the tree, the poorer the survival. The biggest reasons for lack of success were watering too often and poor soil-water drainage. Smaller plants in the desert are capable of surviving relocation better than larger well-established ones. Survival “tricks” were used sometimes when relocating plants such as orientation and soil additives. Some “tricks” made “sense” such as removal of a portion of the plants top to compensate for root loss and improve transplant success. Outside of orientation and soil additives, how are size reduction “tricks” done to Yuccas? Super Thrive is a well known additive that makes claims for improving transplant success. Some people swear by it, others swear at it. The Smaller the Plant the More Success Native plants have a very wide and established root system. Big native plants look beautiful but are exceedingly difficult to move from the wild primarily because of their established root system. The same is true of established landscape plants; smaller ones are easier to relocate than larger ones. Larger native plants like this Joshua tree has had limited success reestablishing in a landscape unless it is well rooted in the nursery. The best luck planting is with plant Joshua trees less than three feet tall that were established first. The best survival was with those under three feet in height. Dip the roots and lower stem in a Bordeaux paste and let it dry before planting. This gives cacti some protection from watering too often. Amend the soil at the time of planting and stake them if needed. Water at first planting and then every three weeks until they have rooted. 

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How to Kill a Yucca

Q. I had a yucca plant that has been in the ground 15 years, so you can guess how large it was. It was encroaching on the sidewalk, so felt we had to remove it.  We were unable to dig it up, so we took a chain saw and cut if off at the base and turned off the water. Within 3 days, we had 20 new shoots. Can you advise how to kill this plant? Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia)  in Sandy Valley. A xeric (watered infrequently) yucca.  Little rain in the Mojave Desert causes a small amount of growth every year. A. I dont know what kind of yucca this is. There are yucca that are “mesic” and others that are “xeric”. In the Mojave Desert climate it will eventually die because of a lack of water unless something is growing a few feet away that needs water. If water from other plants is close enough, the roots will take that water and use it.  Another type of Yucca (probably Y. gloriosa) which is mesic (watered more often than xeric) and more commonly found planted in the Southeastern US. When you cut it with a chainsaw you leave behind a small amount of stem attached to the roots. The stem, and not the roots, can provide new growth at certain times of their lives or when they are damaged. In most cases I know of, the roots alone cannot do this. Only if there is some stem (trunk) tissue left behind. There is a portion of the stem just above the roots which can send rhizomes into the surrounding soil to produce new plants called “pups”. Not all yuccas will do this. Evidently, yours is one that does. Some Joshua trees can produce pups while others will not. Conservationists believe it is a trait of Joshua’s growing at higher elevations but not lower elevations. Regardless, if you can kill all of the stem tissue down to the roots this should stop any regrowth of the plant. You can try drilling some holes in the remaining stem about half an inch from its perimeter and as deep as you can. Fill these holes with a diluted weedkiller or use copper sulfate. If it’s a liquid, fill the holes several times. If it’s a solid, fill the holes once. This should kill the stem and prevent any new growth.

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Joshua Tree Followup: A Success Story

Dear Bob Morris:      As a 2 year follow-up on the transplanting of this Joshua tree I’m happy to report success!    This precious desert succulent has resumed growth and even flowered (photo).   I believe the amended soil of mulch, bone meal and sulfur along with sprays of water several times a week did the trick.     Because the root ball had so few extended roots remaining after the transplant,  I placed drippers at it’s baseline. Now I plan to move the drippers out to encourage a more extensive root system and stabilized tree.    Thanks for your advice in saving one of the longest living plants on Mother Earth.  Long live the Joshua! Bob Cardillo, MG Robert I am glad this worked out for you but I would rather believe it was all of your hard work that pulled it off. Congratulations! I will post this on the blog so that it is updated and people can learn from you. If you want to see the previous post then return to the main page, enter “Joshua tree” in the search box and press enter.

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