Q. I’m planting new fruit trees this year. I’ve noticed
there seems to be a consensus that backfilling should be done with only native
soil, without any amendments. However, is there an exception in Las Vegas where
the soil is exceptionally poor?
there seems to be a consensus that backfilling should be done with only native
soil, without any amendments. However, is there an exception in Las Vegas where
the soil is exceptionally poor?
A. This does not apply to
desert soils with extremely low organic matter content. Some desert soils are
okay to plant in directly with few problems. Others are not. Your soil organic
matter content should be about 5%. If it is lower than this, add organic content
to the soil such as a good quality compost.
desert soils with extremely low organic matter content. Some desert soils are
okay to plant in directly with few problems. Others are not. Your soil organic
matter content should be about 5%. If it is lower than this, add organic content
to the soil such as a good quality compost.
Mix it with the soil taken from the
planting hole OR bring in a soil mix and use that to fill the planting hole
around the tree roots or container “ball” of roots. Be careful of adding too
much organic content to the soil. This can work against the establishment of
roots in the surrounding soil.
This is the situation with research done in
Oklahoma, Arizona and other states. These practices of “not adding organic
matter” to the soil at planting is from their research with soils significantly
high in organic matter.
Oklahoma, Arizona and other states. These practices of “not adding organic
matter” to the soil at planting is from their research with soils significantly
high in organic matter.
Many soils of the Mojave
Desert with very low rainfall are extremely low in organics. Soils in the
desert that are relatively high in rainfall or were previously farm land (under
irrigation). These are frequently already high enough in organics and adding
more does little, if any, good. Using the deserts of the Southwest as an
example (Sonoran, Mojave, Chihuhuan, Great Basin) they range in historical
rainfall from 4 inches to over 10 inches of rainfall each year. This is a 250%
difference depending on locale!!! Of course we will see different types of
plants and a difference in plant density and canopy size when we compare desert
environments with a difference in rainfall of 250%!!! This is reflected in soil
differences there as well. We see differences in organic content, salts, pH,
etc.
Desert with very low rainfall are extremely low in organics. Soils in the
desert that are relatively high in rainfall or were previously farm land (under
irrigation). These are frequently already high enough in organics and adding
more does little, if any, good. Using the deserts of the Southwest as an
example (Sonoran, Mojave, Chihuhuan, Great Basin) they range in historical
rainfall from 4 inches to over 10 inches of rainfall each year. This is a 250%
difference depending on locale!!! Of course we will see different types of
plants and a difference in plant density and canopy size when we compare desert
environments with a difference in rainfall of 250%!!! This is reflected in soil
differences there as well. We see differences in organic content, salts, pH,
etc.
How do we know what the
organic content of a soil is?
organic content of a soil is?
We can send it to a soil
testing laboratory and spend maybe $75 to $100 and wait for three weeks for a
reply or use our noggin and get a rough approximation. The soil testing lab
will give you a precise amount in the sample sent to them. If the sample sent
to them is representative of the soil that interests us, the it may be fairly
accurate. But, garbage in, garbage out. If the sample is NOT a good
representative of the soil that interests us then it is garbage.
testing laboratory and spend maybe $75 to $100 and wait for three weeks for a
reply or use our noggin and get a rough approximation. The soil testing lab
will give you a precise amount in the sample sent to them. If the sample sent
to them is representative of the soil that interests us, the it may be fairly
accurate. But, garbage in, garbage out. If the sample is NOT a good
representative of the soil that interests us then it is garbage.
Look at the soil.
Soil color is a pretty
good indicator of soil organic content. Rich soils, full of organics are brown
to black. The lighter the color, the less organics in it. If the soil is moist
and dark brown, you probably don’t have to add anything. If it is light tan or
very light colored, even when moist, it probably needs organics added despite
the recommendations from Oklahoma or Arizona.
good indicator of soil organic content. Rich soils, full of organics are brown
to black. The lighter the color, the less organics in it. If the soil is moist
and dark brown, you probably don’t have to add anything. If it is light tan or
very light colored, even when moist, it probably needs organics added despite
the recommendations from Oklahoma or Arizona.
Dig in the soil.
If you need a pick to dig
or a shovel barely scrapes the surface, AND it is light colored….ADD
ORGANICS!!!! Add organics in a ratio of about 1:1 by volume or container. Add a
five gallon bucket of compost to this cement-like soil. Adding organics/compost
in a 1:1 ratio (v/v) will NOT result in 50% organic matter content but probably
in about 3 to 5% content after watering, settling, and growing for one season.
Next year add 25% by volume (v/v) if it is a garden soil or apply about one
inch of compost to the soil surface around a plant and lightly scratch it into
the soil surface, and water it in. Keep compost at least (approximately) 6 to
12 inches from the “trunk” or stem of the plant. Beginning the third year, add
compost around the tree/plant at the beginning of its growth cycle primarily
for nutrients and improved biological activity.
or a shovel barely scrapes the surface, AND it is light colored….ADD
ORGANICS!!!! Add organics in a ratio of about 1:1 by volume or container. Add a
five gallon bucket of compost to this cement-like soil. Adding organics/compost
in a 1:1 ratio (v/v) will NOT result in 50% organic matter content but probably
in about 3 to 5% content after watering, settling, and growing for one season.
Next year add 25% by volume (v/v) if it is a garden soil or apply about one
inch of compost to the soil surface around a plant and lightly scratch it into
the soil surface, and water it in. Keep compost at least (approximately) 6 to
12 inches from the “trunk” or stem of the plant. Beginning the third year, add
compost around the tree/plant at the beginning of its growth cycle primarily
for nutrients and improved biological activity.
Las Vegas soils, most of
them, are extremely low in organics. ADD compost to these soils at the time of
planting fruit trees, ornamental rees and shrubs. You have one time to do it and after that it is very hard to do if
not done at planting time.