Q. I believe I
have a Bears lemon tree. It was growing in the ground then transplanted to a
22” planter last fall and for a variety of reasons finally transplanted it to my raised bed a few weeks
ago and used the rejuvenate soil mix from Viragrow. I cut off one third of the
top when moving it, but the leaves are still yellow, I don’t see any new
growth. I don’t believe tree is dying but it’s not healthy. Is it the soil?
have a Bears lemon tree. It was growing in the ground then transplanted to a
22” planter last fall and for a variety of reasons finally transplanted it to my raised bed a few weeks
ago and used the rejuvenate soil mix from Viragrow. I cut off one third of the
top when moving it, but the leaves are still yellow, I don’t see any new
growth. I don’t believe tree is dying but it’s not healthy. Is it the soil?
A. First, not that it makes any difference but if you
have Bears, it may be a lime, not a lemon. That might affect when it’s harvested.
The Rejuvenate soil mix drains easily provided the hole drains water. If the
hole drained water in 6 to 8 hours, everything is fine. Just don’t water the
tree every day.
have Bears, it may be a lime, not a lemon. That might affect when it’s harvested.
The Rejuvenate soil mix drains easily provided the hole drains water. If the
hole drained water in 6 to 8 hours, everything is fine. Just don’t water the
tree every day.
Yellow Leaves
The
yellowing and poor growth is most likely due to recovery from the damage during
transplanting. Yellow older leaves stay yellow even if everything is wonderful.
Watch the new growth coming out. That’s the key. If the new growth is green and
not yellow then that indicates the tree is doing well. The yellow leaves will
be replaced visually by dark green leaves later.
yellowing and poor growth is most likely due to recovery from the damage during
transplanting. Yellow older leaves stay yellow even if everything is wonderful.
Watch the new growth coming out. That’s the key. If the new growth is green and
not yellow then that indicates the tree is doing well. The yellow leaves will
be replaced visually by dark green leaves later.
Water and Drainage
Make
sure you are not watering too often. I am watering established fruit trees with
woodchips on top of the soil once a week all during February. This irrigation
frequency is to push new growth and fruit production.
sure you are not watering too often. I am watering established fruit trees with
woodchips on top of the soil once a week all during February. This irrigation
frequency is to push new growth and fruit production.
If trees
were just planted (or transplanted), I water twice immediately after planting
and then about twice a week, every three to four days, until new growth
appears. Once strong new growth appears, once a week should be often enough
until about mid-April if the soil is covered in wood chips.
were just planted (or transplanted), I water twice immediately after planting
and then about twice a week, every three to four days, until new growth
appears. Once strong new growth appears, once a week should be often enough
until about mid-April if the soil is covered in wood chips.
Stake After Moving
Make
sure the tree is staked solidly in the ground to keep the roots from moving
during establishment. I use a three or four-foot-long
3/16 rebar pounded in the ground right next to a new five or 15-gallon tree,
and the tree tied to it only for the first growing season. I tie the tree to the rebar tightly with
stretchable green nursery tape.