Q. There are 3 crepe myrtle in the back yard. One is very
nicely shaped the other two were beside a patio overhang and side limbs were
apparently removed to the height of the patio cover. So we have 2
very TALL 20 ft skinny trees with some green leaves at the top. I would
love to prune the trees so they would grow out as opposed to up, thereby
creating an umbrella shape to provide shade. Can
I bend over the top branches and wire them to a more curved
shape?
nicely shaped the other two were beside a patio overhang and side limbs were
apparently removed to the height of the patio cover. So we have 2
very TALL 20 ft skinny trees with some green leaves at the top. I would
love to prune the trees so they would grow out as opposed to up, thereby
creating an umbrella shape to provide shade. Can
I bend over the top branches and wire them to a more curved
shape?
A. That is very unfortunate that these trees were pruned in
this way. I can understand your disappointment. Once that these lower
limbs were removed you are correct, the form was destroyed. I doubt very much
that any new growth would occur in the lower canopy area from larger diameter
limbs. So you are right, you would be able to pull some of these larger
diameter limbs into position to form a more rounded canopy. Let’s talk a little bit about how
to do this.
this way. I can understand your disappointment. Once that these lower
limbs were removed you are correct, the form was destroyed. I doubt very much
that any new growth would occur in the lower canopy area from larger diameter
limbs. So you are right, you would be able to pull some of these larger
diameter limbs into position to form a more rounded canopy. Let’s talk a little bit about how
to do this.
What you will try to do is to train
the trees rather than prune them. Training is a different concept from
pruning. Pruning is the physical removal of plant parts. What you want to
accomplish here is encouraging the plant to grow into a different form by
manipulation that does not involve pruning or removal of plant parts in the beginning. You will
be bending the branches into a different position that is more eye-appealing.
This involves pulling or pushing existing growth into areas where it does not
want to grow. When you pull or push plant parts into different positions, this
will cause the tree to respond to this change in its shape. After this
response occurs over the next couple of years , you will then begin pruning to
maintain and encourage this change in its form.
the trees rather than prune them. Training is a different concept from
pruning. Pruning is the physical removal of plant parts. What you want to
accomplish here is encouraging the plant to grow into a different form by
manipulation that does not involve pruning or removal of plant parts in the beginning. You will
be bending the branches into a different position that is more eye-appealing.
This involves pulling or pushing existing growth into areas where it does not
want to grow. When you pull or push plant parts into different positions, this
will cause the tree to respond to this change in its shape. After this
response occurs over the next couple of years , you will then begin pruning to
maintain and encourage this change in its form.
Timing when you pull these
branches into place will be somewhat critical. You will pull them into place
when they are supple and can bend easily without snapping the wood. You are
lucky. Crape myrtle bends well. The wood is sometimes used for bow-making.
Bending the branches is best when the sap is flowing in the spring. Your visual
cue for this is when you begin to see new growth this spring beginning in
February. Do not wait too long or you’ll miss this window. I would gauge this
opportunity from early February to about mid-March.
branches into place will be somewhat critical. You will pull them into place
when they are supple and can bend easily without snapping the wood. You are
lucky. Crape myrtle bends well. The wood is sometimes used for bow-making.
Bending the branches is best when the sap is flowing in the spring. Your visual
cue for this is when you begin to see new growth this spring beginning in
February. Do not wait too long or you’ll miss this window. I would gauge this
opportunity from early February to about mid-March.
The easiest would be to use
non-abrasive cord, such as cotton clothesline, loop it around the branch you
want to pull into place, pull it to the position you want and stake it to the
ground. This position can be at any angle you want and in any direction you
would prefer. Leave it tied in place for one growing season. That is enough.
non-abrasive cord, such as cotton clothesline, loop it around the branch you
want to pull into place, pull it to the position you want and stake it to the
ground. This position can be at any angle you want and in any direction you
would prefer. Leave it tied in place for one growing season. That is enough.
Once the branches are pulled and
tied in place you will see a change in how the plant grows. You will see more
growth coming from the upper sides of the bent limbs. This is a response of
growth to new sources of light. We call this type of growth phototropic. Roots
grow away from light and called negatively phototropic. Less growth will occur
from the bottom sides of the limbs because there is less light there than
before.
tied in place you will see a change in how the plant grows. You will see more
growth coming from the upper sides of the bent limbs. This is a response of
growth to new sources of light. We call this type of growth phototropic. Roots
grow away from light and called negatively phototropic. Less growth will occur
from the bottom sides of the limbs because there is less light there than
before.
As this new growth occurs from the
upper sides of bent limbs is when you can begin pruning the tree — if you
want. The branches that grow will “fight it out” for light and grow
accordingly. You can remove wood if it is objectionable to your sense of
proportion and balance. In most cases your pruning cuts will be “thinning cuts”
rather than “heading cuts”. Thinning cuts remove entire stems or branches back
to a crotch and do not leave any stubs or partial stems or limbs. Leave the
strongest and healthiest growth if it is in a place that you like.
upper sides of bent limbs is when you can begin pruning the tree — if you
want. The branches that grow will “fight it out” for light and grow
accordingly. You can remove wood if it is objectionable to your sense of
proportion and balance. In most cases your pruning cuts will be “thinning cuts”
rather than “heading cuts”. Thinning cuts remove entire stems or branches back
to a crotch and do not leave any stubs or partial stems or limbs. Leave the
strongest and healthiest growth if it is in a place that you like.