Xtremehorticulture

Plant What You Eat

Q. My wife and I recently purchased a home in Las Vegas. It is on a little less than an acre and has access to well water. Currently on the property, it is mostly just dirt with a few pine trees. We want to plant an orchard with a lot of different fruit trees that will grow well, and we have seen a few of your articles in the RJ. In one of them, you suggested the questioner to email you for a list of recommended fruit trees for Las Vegas and we are hoping you could email that to us as well. A. First of all, I would not plant anything during this heat unless it is very early in the morning when its cooler. Even then its a problem at this time of year. This includes any of the fruit trees. Plant what you will eat. If like to eat peaches, then plant peaches. If you like apricots, then plant apricots. If you like to eat plums, then plant plums. Too many people plant Myers lemon (a citrus). What can you do when 200 pounds of “lemons” are ready during the three or four weeks of January or February? Your neighbors will see you coming with a bowl of lemons in February and not answer the door! We live where our winter weather can get cold at times (freezing), and warm at times (not freezing). There are fruit trees that survive the cold weather by dropping their leaves (we call these temperate fruit trees). Then there are subtropical fruit trees such as all the citruses. They prefer the non-winter temps but survive winter weather.  The average killing temperature during the winter of temperate fruit trees is about 15F. The average killing winter temperature of subtropical citrus is about 28F. Some temperate tree crops tolerate our winter cold temperatures better than others (apples, pears, for instance) and some do (pomegranate, figs, for instance). Citrus production is in Yuma Arizona, Riverside California, Galveston, Tx, and the southern half of Florida. In our climate, (in my opinion) growing citrus is “experimental”. The risk of losing citrus is high because of our winter temperatures. Temperate fruit trees are affected by the heat of summer. That is their “winter”. For this reason, I did not evaluate any subtropical “citrus” in this report.

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My Myers Lemon Tree Just Crashed

Q. One of our mature Meyer lemons just crashed. I think we are giving it enough water. Were watering it once a week. I fertilized it and applied Kerex iron. A. It is the end of May. Make sure it is not water problem. Right now, we should be applying water to it (at least half of the spread of its canopy and to a depth of 18 to 24 inches) twice a week starting about 2 to 3 weeks ago for most soils and fruit trees in the Las Vegas area. That is the first thing to take care of before we start correcting other problems. It is mesic in its water use, not a desert tree. During spring is a dangerous time to fiddle with the amount of water. If you skimp on water while the fruit is getting larger, then it may make fruit smaller because you were not applying enough water. Enough water MUST be available to the fruit as they enlarge if you want the fruit larger.  Never daily. That’s a no-no. If water is applied too often then diseases are a problem. The first thing to do is make sure there is enough water present for fruit formation, but not watering daily so that diseases develop. Right now for most soils we should be watering twice a week in Las Vegas and using a thick surface mulch.             Next are the nutrients. For the fruit and trees to be healthy and to produce healthy fruit, all nutrients should be present. That’s the purpose of wood chips plus fertilizer. They rot or decompose when water is present. That’s why we fertilize fruit trees at least once or twice a year with the macro nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK). Iron applications are different. Iron is a MICRO nutrient and not available in many of our desert soils because of the soil pH. Iron is needed in much smaller amounts, but it is still very important. In fact, it is essential (along with manganese and zinc). All three are affected a lot by a soil’s alkalinity or acidity (pH). All three of these micro nutrients are affected by (in our soil especially iron) their availability in a high pH desert soil. Any yellowing of leaves can be any of these three nutrients! But iron is MOST LIKELY in our desert soil. Many of our iron fertilizers (any of the older iron types) ONLY works if the pH (alkalinity) of our soil is measured at 6.8 or lower. EDDHA chelated iron was made so that it works at any soil alkalinity (any pH)! Any type of iron, including EDDHA, must be applied to our soil only from February through about May. The closer to February, the better. Let’s clear up the water and mulch problems first. After that is done, we can talk about other tree issues that might pop up. Water is the biggest problem (not enough or watered too often) your tree is facing!

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