Xtremehorticulture

Persimmon Fruit Will “Sunburn” in the Desert

Q. You are certainly correct about some of the persimmon fruit getting sunburned. I had to remove 15 persimmon fruit because of sun damage. One thing I have noticed is that some of the new growth from the main branches are aimed downward so I am hoping to eventually grow the tree closer to the ground so more fruit is in the shade. All the fruit is small. Hopefully, since this is the first crop, the situation will improve as the tree gets bigger.  A. You’re right, persimmon fruit does get a bit larger as the tree gets bigger, if it is “thinned” appropriately, and fertilized in the spring. Play around with it. It may be a bit late for your trees, but try planting persimmon fruit trees on the east side of your home so it gets afternoon shade. Hopefully, it will reduce the number of fruit that have sun damage. Tree fruit needs only about 6 to 8 hours of full sunlight. Morning sun is best for persimmon trees of all kinds. If fruit trees are planted too close together, they may get too much shade. Try growing the variety ‘Giant Fuyu’ if you want larger fruit when the tree is three to five years old. Your persimmon varieties do not have lower limbs to provide some shade for themselves and they are planted very close together. I like semi-dwarf fruit trees planted 8 to ten feet apart and no more than ten feet tall from pruning. If the persimmon tree is already planted in full sun, I have had luck producing fruit without sunburn as the trees get bigger together with appropriate pruning. The pruning I give them produces the shade the fruit needs to produce undamaged fruit. Before it flowers, but after new growth has begun, I will “tip prune” them. This means I will prune the new growth by about half as it is developing. In about one month of new growth (after pruning), new stems produce fruit on the top and bottom of this new growth. When I am thinning the flowers, I remove the top flowers in the hot sun. This gives the remaining bottom fruit the shade they need. Persimmon fruit grows on “current season wood”. Unlike most temperate fruit trees, it produces wood in the spring, then it flowers on this wood, and finally fruit is produced from the flowers. Never thin the flowers as you don’t know if it turns to fruit or not. Some fruit is not pollinated. Wait until you see small fruit developing, about one-half inch in diameter. Then thin. Another fruit tree that produces its fruit late (on current season wood) is pomegranate. The fruit gets damaged (discolored rind or worse) in full sun and both the tree and fruit benefit from afternoon shade when grown in the desert.

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White Grubs Feeding on Roots of Fruit Trees

A “new” insect pest was found in the soil surrounding apricot trees at the privately owned Orchard at Ahern (entrance off of Clarkway Drive, near West Bonanza Road in Las Vegas, Nevada). It was new for fruit trees anyway. Some of you may know about it feeding on soil organics created by adding compost or decaying wood chip mulch to the soil. The insects in this group improve soil health by feeding from organic matter and recycling fallen fruit. Insects that feed on decaying organic matter are called Detritivores and include springtails, termites, ants, dung beetles, ground beetles and others. My feeling is that the young larvae come from a beetle. Those beetles that “eats” compost and gets some energy from it is suspect. Sometimes these “worms” (insect larvae mistaken for legless worms) “mistake” the small feeder roots of plants (living) with dead “organic matter”. Large numbers of these types of larvae feeding in the soil can cause damage to established fruit trees. How to know? Look for exit holes of adults at the base of any fruit trees. Those adults are gone. Adults mean they have “children” or larvae present in the compost or wood chip mulch. Any liquid insecticide will work if it comes in contact with this insect. But it must be in liquid form or made into a liquid to work. Use a soil drench if the label permits. Follow label directions.

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Thinning ‘Myer’ Lemon Tree

Q. My Meyer lemon tree this year has hundreds of buds and flowers. Many on same branch or twig. Should I remove some of them, so I have fewer but larger lemons? A. No thinning of the flowers. The first thinning is done when fruit is about the size of your thumbnail. The second fruit removal is done about four weeks. Aim for about 30 to 40% fruit removal for mature citrus. In about 4 to 8 weeks, you should know where the leaves will be. That’s important for removing sun burned fruit. Remove misshaped, deformed, damaged, doubles or the smallest fruit during the first wave of thinning. On the second wave remove possible sunburned fruit and leave fruit that is or will be. shaded by some leaves. Fruit sunburning on exposed sides (usually west and south sides) and the tips is common in the desert. There is usually no sunburning on the east and north sides. There is a maximum size (determined by genetics) the fruit will reach but it is possible to maximize size in a higher percentage of fruit. Pinch the fruit between two fingers and gently twist it off. Pay close attention to the bottom of trees as a higher percentage of small fruit is located there. Young trees have fewer leaves to photosynthesize and will be better off in the long-term if they’re allowed to focus on their growth. You can leave a few fruit if you want a taste.

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‘Red Baron’ Peach Flower Color

Q. After watching the beautiful flower color of ‘Red Baron’ peach on your YouTube channel, I want one. Where can I get it? I tried to find it locally but couldn’t find it. A. Try online. I found it at Groworganic.com. It is a yellow fleshed variety that flowers in early or mid March and produces fruit somewhere around mid-July to August. They will ship the tree to the Las Vegas location without soil in late January or early February, but is very difficult to find locally. Plant it (wet) as soon as you get it. Planting it wet should give you about one week of its water needs when planting at that time of year. Purchasing it can be done on this website: https://www.groworganic.com/ I would give the fruit from that tree a high three or possibly four out of five stars. Out of 25 to 30 varieties of peach trees, only three peach varieties consistently received a five out of five stars. The fruit was very good but did not receive a five-star rating. It is a good reliable peach tree for our area. There are many peach trees to select from that produce fruit in our area. Others include the white fleshed ‘Babcock’, ‘Arctic Supreme’, ‘Galaxy Donut’ and ‘Indian Free’ among others. More traditional yellow-fruited types (and taste) include ‘Eva’s Pride’, ‘July Elberta’, ‘Belle of Georgia’, ‘Kaweah’, ‘O’Henry’, and other varieties. Select those that flower after the second week of February to mid March and produce their fruit before mid-August. For backyards and in the desert, always buy them on dwarfing rootstocks. Avoid genetic dwarf trees. Buy them 3/4 inch or smaller, the smaller the better. If they don’t have future limbs at your knees or lower, prune them to knee height after planting to encourage lower limb growth.

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Young ‘Fantasia’ Nectarine Diseased?

Q. My ‘Fantasia’ nectarine survived over the winter. It got leaves and blossomed. Now the leaves aren’t looking great, and the branches are developing black tips almost like they’ve been burned. Is that likely to be black fungus? If I need to dig out the tree and replace it, when would the best time be to do that? Are we too close to summer to try that now? A. This was a rough time for plants this winter. All through the winter this tree should not receive a deep watering more often than once a week. Some time in February is the time to give mesic (water loving) trees (all fruit trees are mesic) a solid watering of watering once a week. How much depends on its size but make sure the roots get water 18 to 24 inches deep. All plants pretty much follow a 40-30-20-10 rule with their roots. First make sure the fruit tree was planted correctly (planting hole dug or the soil at least loosened! three times the container width) and the hole backfilled with an amended soil. Make sure the tree was staked and watered in, the soil around the tree covered with a mulch of some sort. Next, we can address your tree issues. With this very low desert humidity, any leaf of stem disease will not last long. If the tree looks good other than the leaves, let it go. Let the warm, and eventually hot, weather do its job. The leaves look a little yellow so make sure it was fertilized properly in about four weeks if needed. Make sure there isn’t a borer problem present. Nectarines are “glorified peaches”. They can be a problem in peaches and nectarines. By the way, ‘Fantasia’ nectarine fruit got pretty low marks from me at the University orchard regarding tasting the fruit. Not the tree, it did well, but the taste of the fruit.

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Kadota Figs are Treated Like Any Fig in the Desert

Q. I have a Kadota fig tree that gives lots of figs, but they are either hard as a rock or suddenly get mushy and fall off the tree. What am I doing wrong and how can I get some edible figs A. There are at least two crops of figs, an early crop (Briba crop) and a later crop (Main crop). My guess is that the early crop is getting enough water (when its cooler) but not the later crops. Remember, figs are water loving crops. As temperatures get warmer, they require more water. Also, as your fig tree gets bigger it will require more water. Prune them small and harvest the fruit from the ground when possible.

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