Xtremehorticulture

Tricks to Desert Container Gardening: Expanded Edition

Q. I was wondering if there is a trick to container
gardening. I have been using potting soil, along with plant food, and my plants
keep wilting. What am I doing wrong?

 
A. There are two things you should be aware of regarding
watering and containers in our climate. Don’t use small containers and never
let the soil get too dry before you irrigate again.

            Small
containers do not work well in the desert. They just don’t hold enough water
and their soil volume is small so it heats up rapidly. Plants use a lot of
water in a desert environment. This means they have to draw upon a large
reservoir of water in the soil. Large plants in small containers use the water
in the soil quickly.

            When
the soil dries, it shrinks. In containers the soil dries from the outside,
inward. The outer surface of this container soil can be very dry or hydrophobic,
meaning it will repel water. When the soil shrinks in the container, it pulls from
the sides of the container leaving a large crack. The combination of this large
crack between a very dry soil and the inside of the container wall makes a nice
channel where water can flow. Water applied to dry container soil flows down
the inside of the container wall without wetting the soil. Of course you see it
run out the bottom and think you have wetted the soil when in fact the
hydrophobic soil surface is still dry.

            Plant
water use can be 25 to 40% higher in our hot, desert climate than in more
moderate climates. You have to use larger containers to compensate for this
higher water use or water more often.

            Another
problem. If containers are left exposed to the sun, the soil in the container
dries rapidly and can get very hot, sometimes reaching temperatures around
160°F (70°C).

            Most
plant roots are not as tolerant to heat as aboveground parts. Why should they
be? Soil can be a great temperature buffer. Large soil volumes provide a better
cushion against high soil temperatures than smaller ones. Also, wet soils are
slower to get hot than drier soils so set your irrigations clock to irrigate
containers just prior to the heat of the day.

            Here
are some other suggestions about growing plants in containers in our desert
environment.

·      
When wetting a very dry container soil, use a
couple of teaspoons of liquid detergent in a gallon of irrigation water to help
the water penetrate the dry soil. Add the detergent after the bucket is full of
water.

·      
Always make sure water can drain from the
container directly out of the bottom to keep salts moving through the soil
profile. Our tap water coming from Lake Mead has lots of salt in it, about 1
ton of salt for every 320,000 gallons (1.28 million liters).

·      
When watering, let about 20% of your applied
water (1/5 of the volume applied) run out the bottom. This helps flush salts
out of the container. This is called a leaching fraction.

·      
Replenish container soil regularly. If container
plants are annuals such as vegetables, replenish one fourth to one third of the
soil volume each time you plant. If the container plant is a perennial such as
a fruit tree, remove and replant the tree every 2 to 3 years. When replanting,
prune the roots as well as the top to bring it back into scale with the
container.

·      
Shade the container from direct sun during the
day time. You can do this by placing the container inside a larger container.
This is called double-potting.

·      
Use an inexpensive soil moisture meter made for
houseplants to give you a rough idea if the soil is wet or dry. Otherwise lift
or push the container. Containers get much lighter when it is time to water.
Lift or push it after you finish watering as well. This helps reassure you that
the soil is wet.

·      
Fertilize lightly once every one to two months
during the growing season.

1 thought on “Tricks to Desert Container Gardening: Expanded Edition”

  1. My additional comments would be: Containers exposed to the sun in summer should either be painted white or covered with aluminum foil at least on the sides with direct sun exposure to reflect the heat. Where this is impractical from an aesthetic standpoint consider a pot within a pot design with the interior pot lined with aluminum foil.

    Do not plant within 3" of any container wall. The soil temp in the first 3" is the same as air temp.

    Add mulch to the container to combat water loss and heat buildup. 3-4" would be ideal but often hard to achieve. I don't see a problem with collar rot in Phoenix. I suspect arid Las Vegas will be the same.

    Unlike Phoenix where we don't have real winters (usually), you do. So plan accordingly.

    If potting soil dries out it is extremely hard to rehydrate. I thoroughly soak the container plant in a bucket (garbage can) to get the peat moss back in shape.

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