Xtremehorticulture

Lots of Nutrients are in the Soil and Water But Sometimes the Plants Can’t Get to Them

Q. Are there any micronutrients in our hard Vegas water of significant quantity?   I ask because I’m wondering if say a fertilizer I use lacks a certain nutrient (say calcium), could it be made up for through regular waterings alone (assuming we remove soil from the equation and all things being equal)? Can we definitively conclude our water is calcium-rich or sulphur-rich or whatever rich?   A. Micronutrients are kind of a funny thing to try and predict. Yes, there are lots of many nutrients (micronutrients as well as major nutrients) present in our soils and water as well as calcium, magnesium and other major or macro elements but not a sizable amount of nitrogen, hopefully. This chart shows the effect of how acid or alkaline soil water is on 12 nutrients available for plants through their roots. Take iron in the center of the chart, for instance. The grey bar that iron resides in is wider on the left side and becomes narrower as we follow the bar from left to right. The wide part of the band means there is plenty of iron available to the plant. As the band decreases in size, its availability to plants decreases as well. Also notice that the pH scale on the  bottom increases from left to right. From this we can conclude that as the pH increases (becomes more alkaline) the amount of iron that the plant can get from the soil is smaller. Even though the total AMOUNT of iron is unchanged, what the plant can get from the soil decreases as the soil (or water) becomes more alkaline. This breakeven point for the plant varies but is basically a problem starting around a pH of 7.5. If we know the pH of a soil or water, we can get a rough idea which nutrients, in general, will be a problem for plants or not.   Just because the micronutrients are present does not mean they will do the plant much good. They must be in a form available to the plant to use. Micronutrient (and major nutrients as well) availability to the plants depend on how alkaline or acidic the water is (pH) as well as what is called the oxidation/reduction (redox) potential of the water. As alkalinity rises (pH increases) the availability of iron, manganese and zinc become more limited. So in our soils, not just in our water, the alkalinity affects whether the plant can take up these micronutrients. The quantity of iron in many of our soils is more than adequate for plants BUT because the soil is alkaline the plant can’t use them efficiently. By making the water or soil more acidic these micronutrients convert to a more available form and the plant can take them up. Thus we have those iron fertilizers that are mixed with sulfur to help make the soil more acidic (e.g., Ironite) and we have chelates which bind the iron in an a form available to plants and release it in this form so the plant can take it up and use it (EDDHA, EDTA, DTPA). Unlike Ironite, for instance, the chelates do not affect the acidity of the soil making the iron (or any of the other micronutrients) more available to plants. Ironite is a product that combines sulfur and iron in a single application. The reasoning is that the sulfur will lower the soil pH as it is “consumed” by soil microorganisms. This lowering of the soil pH will then make the iron residing in the soil close to it, more avaible to the plant. Sprint 138 is an iron chelate. Chelates work on the priniciple that this chemical “claw” protects the iron from chemical reactions and allows the iron to be used by the plant. The chelate is EDDHA. The chelate is then called Iron EDDHA or FeEDDHA. Those are the two methods used to make micronutrients available to plants; increase acidity, or chelate (protect) the nutrient in a form available to plants. So are the micronutrients in adequate supply in our water? No, but they are in high enough quantities in MOST soils in the valley to satisfy most plant requirements IF the soil were more acidic. So we end up applying a liquid calcium (usually calcium chloride) to the fruit in multiple sprays (usually five or more) as the fruit is developing to alleviate corky spot and bitter pit in a highly productive orchard. But our soil is LOADED with calcium and you would think…no… that’s impossible, it should never happen. Just because there is a lot of something in the soil or water does not mean the plant can get to it. Sometimes, besides the pH being a problem, these nutrients may be “bound up” either as secondary minerals (calcium in the form of calcium carbonate = limestone). Calcium carbonate does not dissolve quickly. So if crops have a high demand for calcium over a fairly short period of time (March through August) they may not be able to get enough of that mineral (calcium) from the bound form (calcium carbonate or limestone). For instance, on some cultivars of pears and apples their demand for calcium can be very high over a relatively short period of time during development and the soil cannot release enough calcium to keep up with this large and quick demand. Thus the plants become calcium deficient (from this deficiency we develop disorders like cork spot on pear and bitter pit on apple; they are the same problem, a lack of calcium, but given different names on different crops). Bitter pit in Mutsu apple grown in the Las Vegas valley.  Even though it looks like a “cork spot” which is the name given to this disorder in pears. The brown spot may “erupt” on the surface as a blemish like this and/or it may also cause discoloration of the white flesh under the skin. Sometimes it does not appear until after harvest. This is cork spot on Comice pear. Notice the green “dimples”

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Can I Prune My Shoestring Acacia Now?

Q. I planted a shoestring last Spring, and it is doing well. It has five lower limbs off of the main trunk and one of them is all most as long as the tree is tall. I was wondering if I can cut them off this Fall? They are so low they will be removed eventually any way. If I remove them will it help the main trunk to grow faster? Will it hurt the tree to cut them off now? A. There are several things you can do about this. You will not hurt the tree to remove a few limbs (particularly lower ones) now. When I went to school and studied arboriculture, my professor would say two things I will never forget; the best time to prune is when the pruners are sharp AND if you know how to prune, you can prune using only your thumbnail. I have always strived in learning how to prune, what he meant by that. As time passed, I slowly learned.   In the desert we have to be a bit more careful in pruning because our environment is so harsh but the principles he taught me are still valid.             Remove tree limbs very close to the trunk, making the cut with a sharp, clean and preferably sterilized pruning shears. Make the cut leaving a tiny bump (called the shoulder) intact on the trunk. Don’t cut flush to the tree trunk. The shoulder of a limb attached to the trunk and where to make the cut in relation to the shoulder.             Let me explain better where to cut. If you look at the limb, where it attaches to the trunk, you will see that it flare (become wider) at its base, at a point where it attaches to the trunk. Cut with the smallest cut possible but as close to this flair as you can. Do not leave a stub. Leaving this flair intact on the tree trunk is NOT leaving a stub.This type of cut, not cutting into the flair, will heal much faster than if you cut or remove the flair. You do not need pruning paint.             If limbs are too long, yes, go ahead and cut them back now. Not a problem. You just do not want to make major cuts that change the basic structure of the tree now which opens it up to sunlight that might damage the limbs and trunk through sunburn.             The fewer side branches or limbs you have (within reason), the faster the tree will grow in height. So remove smaller, weaker limbs or branches at the trunk. You can do that now as well.  

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Update on Grape Leaf Skeletonizer from Reader

I big thanks to Powell Gammill from Phoenix, Arizona, for sending these pictures along with his comments on grape leaf skeletonizers. Attached are two pics I took last year that capture a female laying eggs (note precise characteristic pattern) Grape leaf skeletonizer laying eggs on the grape leaf surface. Picture courtesy Powell Gammill. and a pic of newly hatched 1st instar larvae (and one 2nd stage) in uncharacteristic (non-line) feeding pattern (which I hope may indicate a viral infection is established around my vines) and a couple of organized egg clusters.  You can reprint them if you wish. Grape leaf skeletonizer eggs laid (right bottom) with larvae hatching from eggs at center, bottom. Photo courtesy Powell Gammill. In addition to the Btk and spinosad, you can use dormant oil before leafing and horticultural oil to try and kill the molting larvae under the vines (but this would kill any emerging parasitic wasps as well).  By rotating treatments you can hopefully prevent resistance.  I have found a easy method of reduction is to look under the leaves and remove any infested leaves before they hatch or get large enough to move on.  They strip a leaf at a time and are not too hard to spot if they are still young and on a leaf.  Also the adults can’t fly very well and look inelegant in flight. Grape leaf skeletonizer adults. Photo courtesy Powell Gammill. As you said, if you pick the 3rd and 4th instars off manually do so with gloves and remove them as if you just drop them unharmed they may either find their way back to a vine or go to ground and cocoon.  I think these were drying out getting ready to start flying.  Note, ours (Phoenix, AZ) have an orange head.  They too are reportedly irritating (cyanide?) to the skin…I know the larvae have irritating bristles.

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Beautiful Moth Now, Deadly Assignment in Your Garden

I was working in the garage the other night, cleaning out some things and holding a small box. The overhead light was on so I could see the small box in front of me. Startling me, this flew in and landed on the box, attracted to the light. Of course this is not my picture but can be found at http://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/pollinators/pollinator-of-the-month/images/hawkmoths/eumorpha_typhon_lg.jpg This is the sphinx moth, hawk moth or sometimes we call them the hummingbird moth because they can pause in mid-air in front of a flower and sip up its nectar. However, my moth was gone as soon as I tried to get my camera. But the feds site will let me use their picture. You will see them flying now, usually around dusk although they feed on the nectar of flowers and serve as very good pollinators, particularly of flowers with very long “throats”. This is because their “tongue” is so long. But….there is a problem for gardeners. This is the hornworm and it is the larva or immature (baby) of the sphinx/hawk/hummingbird moth. You will see them devouring grape leaves (one of their favorites), tomato leaves and other garden crops. They can be devastating this time of year and you might see them again in the fall.   It is your call but if  you want to control these “caterpillars” or larvae then use Bt (Dipel or Thuricide) or Spinosad for organic control. It will not harm the adult moth but will help in controlling the eating by the larvae. This will of course prevent the larvae that you kill from becoming more moths.

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Watch for Grape Leaves Disappearing – Skeletonizer Flying

Q. I just sited my first grape leaf skeletonizer moth. I’ve learned that Bt will control the worms.   I’d like to try and minimize the larvae if I can by eradicating as many moths as possible. Can you recommend the best course of action, if any, to control the moth itself? Grape leaf skeletonizer adult moth A. Not a lot of people know what they look like. They are a dark, blue-black moth that resembles a wasp more than a moth. I will post a picture of the moth, eggs and damage on my blog for all to see. If you have grapes, everyone should start looking for these guys. Grape leaf skeletonizer larva feeding ont he underside of grape leaf. This picture courtesy University of Arizona and can be found at http://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/diagnostics/Assets/Images/Insects/grapeleafskeletonizer1.jpg             The adult only lives for about three days. Pretty much its sole purpose is to reproduce. The damage comes from the larvae eating the leaves, not the moth eating the leaves. The eggs are laid on the bottom of the leaf. The life cycle of the insect is about 60 days (two months). It takes about 7 days for the larvae to hatch from the deposited eggs.             I know you want to control the adult in an attempt to control the young but it probably is not the best approach since the adult will be hard to kill. Soap and water or insecticidal soap will work IF the soapy water comes in direct contact with the moth. But since the adult does not eat the leaves, you would have to actually spray the adults to kill them.             The larvae are fairly easy to kill since they eat grape leaves. You must spray it on the bottom of the leaves. Do this by pointing your applicator so it sprays up, on the bottom of the leaves. The Bt (Dipel, Thuricide) has about a one week residue on the leaves.             Spinosad will also work and has about the same staying power but is a little harder on bees.   A word of caution: These larva are nasty critters. If a larva falls on your skin it will feel like you were burned by a matchhead.

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Pruning Fruit Trees at Planting

Q. I planted some barefoot fruit trees earlier this year and unfortunately several did not survive. This was my fault since I didn’t get them planted right away and the roots may have dried out.  I want to replace them with container nursery stock. The problem is that I want to prune the trees to knee to height per your ladderless orchard recommendations. All the nursery stock trees have limbs well above this height.  If purchased and planted now, can these trees be cut back to the lower height when planted and survive?   A. They can be pruned back provided the stems are not too large in diameter. Pick smaller container plants that are in good health. They will catch up or even surpass the size of larger container stock.             I would make sure that the stem or trunk is well under an inch in diameter so you can cut them back. This should produce several new stems about 8 to ten inches below your cut.             Some fruit trees sucker better than others. Peach and nectarine, for instance, have a harder time sending new shoots up after they have been cut if the diameter is too large. You should not kill the tree if you do this provided the diameter is small.

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Insect Damage to Kiwi But Can’t Find Insect

Q. I have a bit of a quandary. My male kiwi died and I did everything I could do to keep it alive. I then contacted Parks Seed and they sent me a new male free of charge, not even shipping. But then something started eating the leaves of my female kiwi. I searched every leaf and found nothing. I thought whatever it is must be eating at night and hiding during the day. I was right. It was a beetle. I found and identified the culprit; a black vine weevil. Now here is my question. If they have laid eggs in the pots (still in their one gallon originals) of my new male or the original female what do I do to stop the infestation if there are eggs or already larva feeding on the roots?   A. Kiwi is a bit cold sensitive for some parts of the valley. So be careful during the winter. However, we should be able to grow hardy kiwi here in most locations. You will have a hard time managing this plant in a 1 gallon container for any length of time. I would get it in the ground.             Yes, it could be a black vine weevil or possibly root weevils which are more common here. It is possible the plant came to you with black vine weevil as a hitchhiker. Black vine weevil adults emerge in spring and cause plant injury by feeding upon blossoms, clusters, and small fruits.             I would follow the same recommendations for growing it as our fruit trees; plant it in the ground with lots of compost at the time of planting, water it in thoroughly and stake the plant to keep it from moving, mulch the surface of the soil with organic mulch.             If you collect some from the leaves at night and send it to the state entomologist through the State Department of Agriculture we can get this resolved.             Control efforts are usually directed against the larvae living in the soil. Root weevils come out at night, as you have discovered, and chew on the edge of leaves leaving the edges of the leaves very raggedy looking. Control is difficult but they usually do not cause extensive damage that would kill the plant.             When they feed on ornamentals we usually just ignore root weevils. If it is black vine weevil you would be looking at applying an insecticide to the soil in the container in an effort to control the larva or immature forms. You would need to look for an insecticide which lists that it controls vine weevil, can be used as a soil drench and is labeled for fruit crops.

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African Sumac Limbs Splitting

Q. Could you please give me some clue as to why my 10 year old African Sumac tree has started to get split limbs. They are splitting laterally along the length of the branch. I have had to cut off two branches in the last week because of this splitting. A. This is the first I have heard of this problem with African sumac. Who is making the decision to remove the limbs and what is the reasoning behind it? I would be curious because there are unscrupulous maintenance people who will point out something to a homeowner and recommend a job to make money. Also, there are uneducated maintenance people who will point out something to a homeowner and recommend a job to make money.             Sometimes natural furrowing of the bark can be mistaken for cracking. I have had several homeowners get concerned and send pictures and that is all it is. I have had African sumacs split due to snow loads on the branches but that is reasonable.             Most reasons for cracking would be excessive weight on the limbs. Are you sure there are no children doing pull-ups on some limbs?             This is a stretch but if the tree were growing very rapidly and pruned incorrectly I could possibly see that limb cracking might occur. Without a bit more information that is about all I can tell you with the information you gave me. Has anyone else seen this? I would love to get some pictures so I can see the problem. Pine tree limb splitting due to lack of taper along the limb. The weight of the branch on the end was too much for it after a light snow. The tree was thinned to allow for less resistance to wind to lessen blow over. Improper pruning caused the limb to not develop good taper resulting in splitting.

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Roses Growing Weaker After Installing Rock Mulch

Q. I have some well-established rose bushes (15 years) in our front yard. Five years ago we converted to desert landscape and the landscaper put about 3 inches of small rock in the area containing the roses. They seem to be healthy although the density and beauty of the blooms was weaker last year.             I’ve been using liquid Miracle Gro. Is there a better liquid fertilizer, or should I consider pulling the rock away from the bases and fertilize through the soil. Thanks.   Not the readers rose but what can happen to roses over time growing in rock mulch and little care. A. Miracle Gro products are fine but I would also add a separate iron fertilizer. Go to your local nursery and get a one pound canister of iron EDDHA. Follow the label directions but I find it more effective to mix in a teaspoon of the product in a gallon of water and water it into the rootzone of each plant. Some of the Miracle Gro specialty fertilizers. Actually any of these would interchangeable. Miracle Gro might disagree but these labels are mostly to help novice gardeners select a fertilizer for specific plants.             Each rose should get maybe one teaspoon January – March, a once a year feeding. Although best applied early, an application will work now. They should be all right if you keep it on this fertilizer schedule. Select a product that has a big middle number. There are several different ones to pick from and I don’t know their product line off the top of my head. This is the correct iron chelate to use in our high pH soils.             Feed roses about every two months lightly starting January – October. However the iron is needed just once a year. Do not neglect soil improvement as well by using composts and organic mulches that decompose into the soil. Roses will really appreciate wood mulch much more than rock mulch.

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Moruga Scorpion chili and Bhut Jalokia Pepper Plants Available Until 5/12/13

Hi, I just subscribed to your blog, looks nice. I have 7 Moruga Scorpion baby chili plants, and 1 Bhut Jalokia that need a good home. I am out of garden room. They are free to a good home. Contact if you are interested. Sincerely, Craig   Send me an email, [email protected] and I will get hold of Craig for anyone who is interested.   Worlds Hottest Pepper http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trinidad_Moruga_Scorpion   Previous hottest pepper http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naga_Bhut_Jolokia    

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