Xtremehorticulture

March and April Fruit Tree Todo List

Orchard Todo List: March and April. Each of these below will be talked about more in depth in the coming weeks. Irrigate deeply every 7 days if you have mulched your fruit trees Thin fruit when fruit reaches thumbnail size: peaches, nectarines, apricots, apples, pears, Asian pears, plums and plum relatives. Needing no thinning are figs, pomegranates, persimmons all nut trees. Class coming! Begin spraying nectarine fruit with spinosad immediately AFTER flowers drop for control of Western flower thrips (ugly and sappy nectarines) Thrips damage to nectarine fruit. Foliar iron fertilizers can be applied (sprays) if you missed your soil application of iron. This may take multiple applications while the temperatures are cool. This is a good time to put in limb spreaders on apples, pears and Asian pears to 45 degree angle. The branches will bend easily now on limbs one or two years old. Limb spreaders are placed into trees to force limbs into a 45 degree angle from horizontal. Pears and plums are notorious for having growth that is very upright. To be productive this growth should be pushed to about 45 degrees. Ground squirrels become active in late March and early April. Bait traps with no poison. Switch to poison bait when squirrels are eating the bait. Look for tomato hornworms to be active in April. They attack grapes as well as tomatoes. Make sure you have Bt or Spinosad on hand. Grape fleabeetles may appear in mid-April and eat holes in the leaves of grape leaves. Do not panic. They do little damage. Set pheremone traps. One and set more when you see the first flight. Watch for early damage to peaches and nectarine new shoots (flagging) by peach twig borer. Treat with Bt or spinosad. Weed control is very important right now since they are harboring insects like aphids, thrips, and others. A hoe and walk the old and newer orchard areas will be a big help.

March and April Fruit Tree Todo List Read More »

Watch for Aphids This Time of Year

This time of year is a busy time for home horticulturists. Now that we have finished fertilizing landscape and fruit trees and increased irrigations as temperatures warm, we turn to pest problems. Curling of leaf edges on plants like plum is a pretty positive sign of aphids this time of year.             Spring growth attracts overwintering insects. Soft, succulent new growth is easy to feed on. Insects like aphids move to new spring growth to feed and have their young. Expect aphids to begin feeding and multiplying on the undersides of leaves now and through cool weather. Aphids like to spend the winter on weeds close to the ground, particularly just below loose mulch. This protects them from cold and still allows them to feed through the winter. They leave weeds and migrate to spring growth when temperatures warm.             If your landscape is a healthy one, you will see an explosion of ladybird beetles or ladybugs and green lacewings. The young of these insects are voracious feeders upon small, soft-bodied insects like aphids. These adult predators lay eggs in areas where their young can easily feed.             Signs that aphids are present and feeding are the curled edges of new leaf growth. However, what might attract your attention more are ants. When the leaf is turned over and the leaf edge uncurled you will see adult aphids and their young feeding. Their feeding creates a sugary sap that ants relish. Aphids prefer the undersides of leaves like on this apricot leaf. This gives them more protection. If you are planning to spray, you must spray the undersides of leaves, not just the tops.             Soap and water sprays directed on them and spaced several days apart are usually enough to control aphids. Most people will spray the top sides of the leaves to control insects. But when aphids are inside the curls on the underside of the leaf, they can be a challenge to control with just soap and water.             If you an adherent to organic methods of pest control then multiple sprays directed toward the tops and bottoms of leaves will be necessary. Most organic methods do not persist. Multiple applications may be needed a few days apart for good control.

Watch for Aphids This Time of Year Read More »

Branch Dieback in Olive Sign of Soil Disease

Q. We have a twenty year old olive tree in our front yard diagnosed with Verticillium wilt disease. The north third of the tree appears to be healthy. If we remove this tree, what distance from the old hole is needed for the new tree? We would a replacement tree to provide shade. We are looking at oak, pine, ash, spruce or fir.   Olive leaf drop and branch dieback may be a sign of verticillium wilt in olive. A. That’s unfortunate. Hopefully the diagnosis was correct and it is not something else that caused it. The information you received about the disease sounds correct. This disease is present in the soil and enters the tree via the roots.             Olive has very few pest problems and an excellent tree for the desert. Verticillium wilt disease is rare in olive here but does occur. Symptoms include the death and dieback of individual limbs for no apparent reason.             Trees resistant to Verticillium wilt disease and good choices for you in our desert include live oak such as Heritage or holly oak, ornamental pear, European pear, honeylocust, apple, crabapple and any of the conifers such as pines.             Eucalyptus is also resistant but a lot people do not like eucalyptus since it can be “messy”. I would not recommend spruce or firs since they do not grow well in our climate.             If you want warmth from the winter sun then conifers (pine) or any evergreen tree (such as our southern oaks) is not a good choice for you. I would stay with ornamental pear or honeylocust for seasonal shade, disease resistance and good looks.             If you stay with Verticillium resistant trees, planting in the same general area should not present a problem.

Branch Dieback in Olive Sign of Soil Disease Read More »

All Desert Plants Need Water Including Cactus

Q. I am looking for substitutes for cacti.  Plants without stickers that need no water.  I want to replace my 15 lantana. I would like to plant them now before the heat comes. A. All of the plants in the desert require irrigation, even cacti. Some of the cacti require more frequent irrigation than others.             Those coming from the Mojave Desert require the least amount. Cacti from the Mojave Desert can get by with shallow irrigations occurring perhaps once a month with a hose. Nopal cactus fruit called ‘Tunas’. Brix hit about 16. Birds love the sweet ones. That is mostly bird damage. The spines on these cacti are diminished but they are present and you must protect your hands handling pads or fruit.             Thorns or “stickers” is a defense mechanism used by plants to keep desert animals from eating plant parts that are full of stored water. There are some cacti that have “stickers” which are much diminished. However, they are present and can cause pain if you handle them.             If water is your major limitation then I would encourage you to look at other possible ways of making your landscape look attractive without growing plants.             A big benefit of growing plants in a yard is their increase in individual value as they get larger and collective value as part of a beautiful landscape. Nopal cactus grown in Hernosillo, Mex, at the University of Sonora field trials.             Other benefits besides beauty are to create more hospitable environments in your landscape. Then of course the right plants can provide food for us.             You can bypass some of this “added value” to your landscape by spending more money upfront in the design. This includes things such as creative use of rock mulches with different colors and sizes, use of changes in landscape elevations when contouring the landscape during construction, use of boulders and good boulder placement, attractive screens, trellises, fences and good garden art.             But I am afraid there is no solid, one answer to your question.

All Desert Plants Need Water Including Cactus Read More »

Aggressive Desert Creature a Centipede!

Q. This insect was found on the west side of town inside the house. As you can see from the picture, it looks like a centipede. When we approached it, it became very defensive and acted like it wanted to attack us!  I also found one on a rose bush in the backyard. It was also very aggressive. What might it be?  Desert centipede found by reader. A. Thanks for the picture and you are correct, it is a centipede. This one is probably the common Desert Centipede. They have very characteristic color differences from other types of centipedes found outside of the desert.             They can look intimidating since they can reach lengths of 4 to 8 inches, one of the largest centipedes, depending on which desert centipede you encounter. There are several types all with different colorations.             They are poisonous and can deliver a nasty “bite”. It was threatening to use this on you because you were a threat to it.             If you search on the internet for “desert centipede” several good sites will come up from a “naturalist” point of view. They are good predators of other insects including roaches. However, they do pose a threat to humans with a “bite” similar to a bee sting which is treated much the same way.             Some people may have a “reaction” to the sting so if you have concerns, go to Quick Care or other medical service where you can get prompt medical attention.             There is very little information on controlling them so the approach is similar to controlling spiders and roaches. This includes excluding them from the home by caulking all possible entry points and creating a chemical barrier using a “foundation spray” if you want to use pesticides.             Once inside the house they may set it up residence if there is a food supply,  places to hide and nest. In cases like these, sprays called “crack and crevice” treatments would be recommended until you can get them under control.             Outside I would just leave them alone and treat them like any other potentially dangerous desert creature such as bees, hornets, wasps, black widows, brown spiders, tarantulas, biting ants and bark scorpions.

Aggressive Desert Creature a Centipede! Read More »

How to Sell Food to the USDA Webinar Mar 20

Each year USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) buys nearly $2 billion and 2 billion pounds of frozen, processed, and fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, poultry, fish and eggs. How to Sell Domestic Foods to the USDA Thursday, March 20,  2014 2:00 – 3:00 Eastern Time      On Thursday March 20, 2014 at 2:00 p.m. Eastern Time, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) will present a free interactive webinar, “How to Sell Domestic Foods to the USDA.” Each year, USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) buys nearly $2 billion and 2 billion pounds of frozen, processed, and fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, poultry, fish and eggs.  Otherwise known as “USDA Foods.”  These healthy, American grown and processed products help feed millions of school children and are also distributed to food banks, disaster areas, and wherever else they are needed. AMS proudly buys “USDA Foods” from a diverse pool of companies, both large and small.  For this webinar, we will be placing special emphasis on contracting information for small, socially disadvantaged, women-owned, and service disabled veteran-owned businesses, as well as those in Historically Underutilized Business Zones (HUB Zones).  Note: The small business size standard for federal contractors in “USDA Foods” procurement is 500 employees or less (except for shell eggs, which is $12.5 million in annual revenue). Sara Hernandez and Dianna Price of the AMS Commodity Procurement Staff will: ·       introduce you to USDA purchasing activities and “USDA Foods,” ·       discuss the types of products USDA buys, ·       explain the solicitation and award process ·       outline the requirements for selling to USDA, and ·       give you the tools and resources you’ll need to explore doing business with the USDA. Following the formal presentation, the webinar will conclude with an interactive question and answer session.  Feel free to submit questions before the webinar to [email protected]. Visit the USDA’s AMS Commodity Procurement website to see what products AMS buys. Then tune in to this webinar to learn everything you need to get started selling your products to USDA. This informative webinar is designed for growers, producers, processors and distributors of all sizes.  The webinar is free and available to anyone with Internet access.   However, registration is  required and space is limited.  Visit (https://amsfv.webex.com/amsfv/onstage/g.php?t=a&d=664780806) to register today!  We will host webinars on more AMS programs and services throughout the year.  To view previous webinars online, visit our Webinar Archive.       We’ll see you online!   REGISTER TODAY! If you have any questions about the webinars or AMS, please contact Christopher Purdy at (202) 720-3209 or [email protected].

How to Sell Food to the USDA Webinar Mar 20 Read More »

Granular Fertilizer, Fertilizer Stakes or Compost for Fruit Trees?

Q. Last week we planted several fruit trees and have established trees as well. Would you recommend applying fertilizer around these trees now? Spikes or granular type of fertilizer? A. Fertilizers will benefit fruit trees the most if applied to the soil just before spring growth. But if you haven’t applied any, then do it now during spring growth.             The least expensive way is using granular fertilizers in a single application in the spring.             Fertilizer stakes or spikes are granular fertilizers compressed into a stake you can drive into the ground. They are not messy, convenient, and no open bags that can spill but more expensive per pound of fertilizer. Jobes does a good job with fertilizer stakes but a bit on the expensive side.             Drive them into the ground near drip emitters or in the irrigation basin; one for each emitter. They release nutrients slowly. Apply them only once in the spring. This is a cheaper version we were using at the orchard for trials. The soil should be wetted and the plastic cap put on top and the stake pounded into wet soil just under the emitter or in the irrigation basin. Small trees two will do. Larger trees would require four or more, one in each quadrant of the basin or under an emitter.             For new trees, if you mixed in good quality compost with the soil in the planting hole you can skip a fertilizer application this season. If you put a smidgen in the ground then apply a fertilizer now if you haven’t.             You can split granular fertilizer applications in half if you want. Apply half now and the other half after you harvest or in a couple of months if there is no fruit. Fruit trees that are tender to winter cold should not be fertilized after mid-summer so apply the second half earlier than this.             If you are using organic fertilizers that release nutrients slowly then apply it once in the early spring.  Young fruit tree fertilized with compost at the orchard. The tree is watered with an irrigation basin and a bubbler. The water from the bubbler moves the compost into the basin through the mulch. The compost acts like a “fertilizer tea”.             Foliar sprays of fertilizers are a great way to fertilize trees if they are in difficult places. Foliar applications should be done more frequently because their results are short-lived. Apply foliar sprays every 6 to 8 weeks until it gets hot.             Keep fertilizers away from tree trunks but in contact with water. Apply them no closer than a foot from the trunk and just under the soil surface. Make sure they are watered in thoroughly after application. Compost applied to the base of the fruit trees by volunteers at the Orchard. Two five gallon buckets are applied to each of the larger trees. One five gallon bucket for the smaller ones.             I have seen new trees killed by applications of fertilizers applied too close to the trunk. Salt damage from fertilizers can kill newly planted trees.             Don’t forget iron. Newly planted trees normally don’t need it the first couple of years but may develop iron shortages beginning in the third to the fifth years. This plum tree had iron chlorosis really severe after it leafed out in the spring. Four applications of iron sprays, spaced one week apart, turned it completely green again. Next year it received iron chelate applied to the soil in January to prevent this.

Granular Fertilizer, Fertilizer Stakes or Compost for Fruit Trees? Read More »

Not Too Late to Prune Pomegranate!

Pomegranates will give you bigger and better fruit if you prune. The question is, HOW? I have worked with pomegranates in several countries now and I will try to explain some basics to help get you started. Pomegranates are easier to manage and produce better fruit if they are pruned. Single-trunked pomegranates can also be created. Pick three to five large stems or “trunks” to remain. Remove the others. Pomegrantes are wicked to prune. I always leave pretty bloody with some pretty nasty scratches everywhere. So be prepared as best as you can. Makes you wonder who won! In most cases, pomegranates are easier to manage and produce better fruit if they are pruned so that 1 to 5 major trunks remain. They seldom perform well or easy to manage if you let them grow as a “bush”. If you have been to my demonstrations…start at the BOTTOM of the tree and move upward when pruning. Start pruning on your knees. Remove all but the largest and most vigorous trunks. Remove the rest. Do not leave stubs as it was done here. They will just create suckers or die back. Pull the mulch or soil away from the trunk and make the cuts as close to the main trunks as possible. Use sharp, adjusted and sanitized tools.You do not need to use pruning paint after the cut. Let the cuts heal for a couple of weeks and replace the soil or mulch. Remove any side branches from the trunk that will touch the ground when they are pulled down like they might if they produced fruit. Fruit should not be allowed to touch the ground. Multi-trunked trees should have their side growth removed if those side shoots might allow fruit to touch the ground. You are now standing and using a loppers. Remove any crossed branches or branches that are broken. If shoots are growing on top of one another or immediately next to each other, remove one. Fruit will be produced on spring growth so we say it produces fruit on “current season” wood. Flowers are produced on new growth that’s why they flower later than many other fruit trees. The new growth must first be produced and then flowers will form on it. The best fruit is produced on this new growth that comes from larger branches. These flowers originate from exactly the same place on this new growth. If they both set fruit, one will be removed when it is small to allow for the other to get larger. This is one of the few times the fruit is “thinned”, otherwise we don’t thin the fruit. The best fruit is colorful, free from scratches and free from sunburn. The best fruit will be protected from direct intense sunlight, hangs so that it doesn’t get scratched by neighboring branches. Lowering the height of pomegranate. Pomegranate height can be lowered and kept small if you want it that way. Pomegranate grows like a fountain. Young erect stems produce fruit. The fruit weighs the branch down and causes it to bend toward the ground. The bent branch is stimulated to grow new shoots along its bent side toward the sun. This creates growth that resembles a “fountain”. This continues until woody growth of the plant supports itself and produces fruit in a tangled mess of branches and thorny wood. Once the tree reaches the height you want, remove “suckers” growing straight up at their source. It is easiest to do when this growth is young and immature when it can be “pulled” from older wood rather than cutting it out.

Not Too Late to Prune Pomegranate! Read More »

Peas Not Germinating Evenly

Q. I have had problems with germination of peas. Placed directly in prepared soil germination has been inconsistent and I had to reseed several times. Remembering a technique I learned years ago I diluted a quart of tap water with 1/8 teaspoon of laundry ammonia and watered them with that. In 2 days ten germinated and in 3 days almost all came up. Have you ever heard of this technique? Harrisons peas and trellis. Nice veggies!  A short disclaimer. This is submitted by someone in Las Vegas who is a very good gardener and this does not represent his question very well! Sorry Harrison! But anyone who can grow bananas here for the past few years is a good gardener. I will post his pictures soon and ask him to submit how he did it. A. No, I have not and that is pretty amazing! In every instance I can remember I do not remember peas being hard to germinate.             A technique I use with large seed like corn, peas or beans is to soak the seed in water prior to germination. I will put a small amount of fertilizer in the water as well. I would soak them for 6 to 8 hours before planting.             This is called “pregerminating” the seed. Using this technique usually cuts off the germination time a day or two in warms soils. I will also do the same thing with garlic cloves before planting. I usually get much faster and more even emergence from the soil.             Sometimes I think garden soil is too “fluffy” and sometimes seed has a hard time staying wet enough in dry soils for good germination.  Seed germinates better in a “firm” seedbed. Not hard, but firm. After garden soil preparation and if you walk on it, your feet should not sink more than an inch into the soil.

Peas Not Germinating Evenly Read More »

Some Grapes Require Thinning of the Foliage During Spring Months

Q. After the grapes set their fruit in the next couple of weeks can the vine be trimmed or does it need to grow to provide shade and nutrition to the grapes? A. As long as your vine is growing vigorously you can continue to prune through the summer. You want to make sure the berries are shaded by the leaves to prevent sunburn. These are table grapes. We will go through the vines during the early part of the growing season and pull new growth that we will not need for next year out of the vines. We have to be careful not to pull too much out and expose the bunches. But by pulling growth out of the vines we open up the canopy for better light penetration, better penetration by pesticides that might be applied and reduce shading on itself. Table grapes are much more vigorous than wine grapes.             We trim the vines back several times during the growing season. Usually table grapes are more vigorous than wine grapes. When the vine is shading itself or out of control it needs some pruning or thinning of its growth. This is something new grape growers to the desert discover too late. They think you can grow grapes with trellis systems from more mild climates. Wrong, wrong, wrong. This is a very harsh climate and the sun can be very damaging. Grape bunches must be protected from intense direct sunlight. We will try different types of trellising at the Orchard. A favorite of ours for table grapes is the use of “catch wires” above the double wires used for the the cordons. As new growth emerges from the cordons they are “tucked” on top of the double catch wire above where they provide shade for the grape bunches and reduces sunburn. The new growth is “thinned” so it does not shade itself, is more manageable and thinned for better penetration by light and pesticides (Bt, Spinosad) Use grape training systems that provide crop cover as they are maturing.

Some Grapes Require Thinning of the Foliage During Spring Months Read More »