Xtremehorticulture

No Reason to Remove Female Inflorescence from Sago Palm

Q. It is my understanding that the ball growing in the middle of my Sago palm is part of its reproductive system. However, since I do not plan on pollinating the plant, how and when can I remove the growth?  Also, can you tell from the images if it is male or female Sago? A. Sago palms come as male or female. The flower or inflorescence of the male is long and cone shaped while the female is flat and disc shaped. That should be easy to remember. Yours looks like a female. Female sago palm or cycad.             Normally this inflorescence is not removed and you let it run its course. I am not sure why you would want to remove it anyway. It is a part of its natural appearance. Here is a nice little bulletin on it from Texas A&M on cycads or sago palm biology. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/Gardening-Handbook/PDF-files/GH-051–male-&-female-sago-palm.pdf

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In This Case Pruning Paint Might Be the Right Choice

Q. I have a large pine tree in my front yard. I trimmed this tree in the past and had buckets and buckets of sap coming from large limbs that were cut. I may need to prune heavily again this winter. But since I just completed relandscaping under it, I’m worried about all the sap that is going to fall on everything I just put down. I’ll never get off all the sap that will drip on everything!! Is there a way I might prevent or stop the sap from dripping such as pruning paint? Is there anything to save all my hard work from being completely being encapsulated in sap? A. Pruning paint might help in this case and may be worth a shot. Most people in the know no longer recommend pruning paints to cover wounds on trees. They just sanitize it and let it air dry.             The reason for not recommending pruning paint is because research has found pruning paints to be primarily cosmetic and do not assist the tree in healing. Healing is best if the wound is left alone without the use of paints. Topworking an apple tree to a new variety using pruning sealer and nursery tape to seal in moisture until healing is underway.             There is some research that supports the idea pruning paints may actually cause some harm to an open wound. But pruning paint will not kill a tree or severely weaken a tree. Compounds similar to pruning paints are still used in propagation of trees such as grafting and topworking.             In this particular case I would go ahead and try it since the benefits will probably outweigh any negatives to the tree.

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Fig Fruits Drying Usually Lack of Water to the Tree

Q. This is the first year my seven year old Black Mission Fig is “behaving” strangely. The fruit came on, some even started to ripen, and now they are shriveling on the tree. The tree looks perfect and so do the leaves. I did read your article on figs but ours always seems to be treated the same, year in and out. A. All of the cases that I have seen of fig fruits drying out on the tree have been from a lack of water getting to the fruits. This can be from a lack of applied water, plugging drip emitters, damage to the tree trunk restricting water to the fruits, or an increase in tree size without the application of more water. Exactly what you don’t want to do is to mix and match high water use plants (fig) with low water use plants (cactus). Note the poor canopy development due to a lack of water. Watering for the fig will damage the cactus. Watering for the cactus resulted in this drought in the fig tree.             The first response a fig tree has to inadequate amounts of water is for the fruits to shrivel. This typically leaves the rest of the tree unaffected. The leaves look the same; growth appears to be normal but usually with a smaller or open canopy.             A fig tree receiving enough water will have a dense canopy. Oftentimes the canopy is so full you are unable to see through it. Fig fruits are full of water. The tree must receive adequate amounts of water and at the right time to produce fruit like this.             Not enough water to a fig tree results in a more open canopy. It is common for fig trees receiving enough water to grow 6 or 7 feet in one season.             My suspicion is inadequate water. Trees get bigger each year. You either have to add more emitters, increase the size of the emitters or add more minutes to the run time. I would focus on this rather than to water more frequently.             As a test, try supplementing the water the tree gets by adding water with a hose once a week. Create a basin under the canopy, level, about five feet across and several inches deep. Fill this basin once a week.             Also figs do much better if four inches of wood mulch is applied under the canopy in a circle around the trunk with a diameter of at least six feet.

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5-in-1 Fruit Tree Growing Differently on Different Branches

Q. I purchased a 5 in 1fruit tree from the recent orchard event. The two thickest grafted branches have vigorous foliage.  The next smallest is marginal, with one foliage “bud” close to the main trunk, nothing distally. The two thinnest don’t look good — no foliage. Suggestions? A. I am not sure what is going on with your tree. I have heard of a couple of people having trouble but very few actually. I would wait a bit longer and see what happens. I am not a big fan of fruit trees that are multiple budded for the very reason you mentioned. Over time it is inevitable one or several of the varieties die off. I think they may have ordered multiple budded trees because of demand but, like I said, I am not a big fan of them. I prefer to use multiple trees planted in a single hole in these cases. I would send you here for more information on multiple trees in a hole. Some information from Dave Wilson Nursery. Go here!

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Shade Plant Selection for the Desert

Q. My garden has matured and now I have flower beds that are shaded.  What plants grow in the shade here and where can I buy them? A. I hesitate in answering plant selection questions sometimes because I do not know what the nurseries are carrying as well as I might. It can be a problem for me to recommend plants and then you go and find out they are not available. The recommendation is not a problem so much as whether you can find it anywhere. Frequently plant recommendations become circular, going back and forth with both of us frustrated. Shade is different for different plants. Shade for vegetables is light to very light shade, no more than 30 to 40%. In even light shade, some plants like okra produces beautiful foliage and flowers but produces no fruit. Going over 40% shade will oftentimes result in no production of fruits like tomatoes for instance. While leafy green vegetables can handle more shade than flowering or fruit-producing types. This translates over to ornamental plants as well. Generally speaking for shady spots stay away from plants that produce flowers. Flowering plants normally require more light than nonflowering plants. In the old days of Las Vegas we would see a lot of ivies; Boston, Needlepoint, Algerian, etc. They were tough and did well in the shade and water was plentiful. Water is more expensive than it used to be and landscapes are much drier now. My best advice is to send you to the nursery and ask for some recommendations. If you have the time, get five or more recommendations and then I can run down the pluses and minuses of each. A2. Response from Andrea Meckley ([email protected]) Here are a few flowering plants I have found that work in the shade: ·       Lily Turf ·       Ajuga ·       Vinca minor (Periwinkle)-aggressive ground cover ·       Begonias (annual) ·       Kalancohe (annual) I also use plants with colorful foliage in shade for color: ·       Nandinas ·       Coleus (annual) ·       Aucuba japonica Andrea Meckley, CH Horticultural Consultant and ASHS Certified Horticulturist

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Why I Hate To Answer the Question,”What Plant Should I Use for….”

I send these types of questions now to Andrea Meckley. She LOVES these kinds of questions. So thank her for answers to your question, “What plant should I use for….. Your “which plant should I use” is now answered by a Certified Horticulturist. A list of plants for specific purposes is fairly easy to compile and readily available on the internet. The problem I have is giving recommendations to homeowners, they go to the nursery, the nursery doesn’t have the plants, they come back to me, I send more examples, they find it at the nursery and don’t like it or the nursery person doesn’t recommend it, they come back to me…etc. This is the reason I usually send people to the nursery and tell them to come back to me with five plants they find at the nursery and then I go through and tell them the pluses and minuses of each. This is why I hate recommending plants in a blog. You are faced with availability problems and the likes and dislikes of a homeowner. It is not like making a pesticide or fertilizer recommendation.

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Any Fruit Trees That Don’t Need Pesticides?

Q. Are there any fruit, nut, fig, or olive trees that I can grow in North Las Vegas without using pesticides? A. Very few fruit trees require pesticides as a general rule. Most of the fruit at the orchard is grown without pesticides. I talk about them because they sometimes do occur. You will still get good production from apricots, peaches, plums, apples, pears, almonds, pistachios, pomegranates and figs. There are occasionally pests that do get in all of them.

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Cathedral Oak a Good Choice But May Be Hard to Find

Q. A few days ago we saw a cathedral oak at the Springs Preserve.  It was identified as “Quercus virginiana ‘Cathedral’”on its little sign.  Does it do well in Las Vegas?   Do its leaves fall at all (like pine needles drop)?  How tall/wide does it get in our area?  Is it a fast grower?  Any other facts? A. From Andrea Meckley. Below is some information about Quercus virginiana ‘Cathedral’.  I did contact Pete Duncombe at the Springs Preserve and his comment was   “they are performing very well”.  I have not seen any locally available and the nursery Pete got them from is now out of business.  This plant is listed on the Southern Nevada Regional Planning Coalition Plant List as a semi-evergreen, maturing about 40′ x 40′, requiring moderate to high water use. USDA hardiness zones for this plant are  7B through 10B covering Las Vegas at USDA zone 9a.  Personally I think it is a possibility, however because of the availability and water usage, I would go with one that Bob suggested, Holly oak. From:  www.sptreefarm.com The Cathedral Live Oak tree is a Quercus virginiana or Southern Live Oak and it is a cultivar (Quercus virg. ‘SDLN’ pp12015) meaning it is cloned from a mother tree with the same DNA to copy the dense and upward structure of the tree.  Properly pruned, the Cathedral Live Oak Tree will not sprawl as wide as a Standard Live Oak Tree. The Cathedral does grow as tall  and is considered a happy medium between the narrower Highrise Live Oak and a typical Standard Live Oak. Holly Oak (Quercus ilex) matures around 30′ high x 20′ wide.  An evergreen, medium water user, that has a slow to medium growth rate depending on soil and water conditions.  It forms a round head with dark green leaves covered with hairs beneath and seasonal acorns.  I have seen them available at local nurseries (Star and Plant world).   If you don’t see them, they can be special ordered.   I hope this info helps and you enjoy your new town of Las Vegas. Andrea Meckley, CH [email protected] Horticultural Consultant and ASHS Certified Horticulturist

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Poor Canopy Development in Newly Planted Large Tree Could Be Lack of Water

Q. I think I this might be a pink locust tree. I’m seeing a lot of dead branches. The tree was planted last Fall. Should I give it some fertilizer to help it push out new growth? A. The tree looks a little skimpy on the foliage side but I don’t see anything from this distance that gives me much overall concern. Check to make sure it was not planted too deep. Some landscapers are notorious for digging a hole barely large enough for the root ball. This can also be part of the problem. I tell people now if they buy a large tree from a nursery, hire some people and dig the hole before they deliver the tree and buy good amendment for the backfill while they are at it. A thin canopy like that can also mean a lack of water. The lack of water would be on the quantity applied at each irrigation, not on the frequency of irrigation. Right now that trees should get by easily receiving water twice a week. But I would guess a tree that size would require the same amount of water as about half of the box that it came in. So if that was a 24 inch box I would guess it would need 20 to 30 gallons each time it was irrigated. Apply some good fertilizer and take a hose and soak it after you made sure it was not planted too deep. Do that about once a week for the next month and see what happens.   Sunburn on locust followed by death of that side of the tree. When the bark was pulled off, borers damage was seen. If this is an Idaho or Black locust like Purple Robe, they are very susceptible to sun damage to the trunk. Once the trunk gets damaged they frequently are attacked by borers. As a precaution it might be a good idea to give it a soil drench with Merit insecticide as a precaution. The same insecticide can be found in Ferti-lome’s tree and shrub systemic insect drench. I know Viragrow has a pretty good price on it if they still have the small containers.  If at all possible you want that tree to develop lower scaffold limbs to help shade the trunk.The canopy could use some light pruning. Remove crossed branches or branches growing on top of each other or too close together. You can do that now if you don’t remove too much or wait until this winter.

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