Xtremehorticulture

New Product for Lowering Soil Alkalinity (pH)

This was a very interesting product. When a few ounces were mixed with tap water it dropped the pH of the water to 3.1. We do not have that many good options for lowering soil pH. The sulfur we get now is coarse and takes years to break down.This product breaks down quickly with applied water. It gets me wondering about our acid-loving plants like azaleas, rhododendrons, hydraneas, camelias and the like. I also wondered about southern highbush blueberries and their potential here if we could find a suitable product to lower soil pH. It might also help plants that struggle with iron problems like photinia, bottlebrush and mock orange. It might be worth a try! Viragrow Delivers! : New Product for Lowering Soil Alkalinity (pH): Have you wanted to grow southern highbush blueberries in the Mojave desert but the soil pH was too high? How about azaleas and rhododendron…

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Call For Nominations to NOSB (National Organics Standards Board)

The Agricultural Marketing Service is pleased to invite nominations from qualified individuals to serve on the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) from January 2016 to January 2021. Applications are due by May 15, 2015.     NOSB: Call for Nominations The National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) is a Federal Advisory Committee that provides advice and recommendations to the Secretary of Agriculture on the implementation of the Organic Foods Production Act.  NOSB members are volunteers and come from across the organic community. Each member is appointed by the Secretary of Agriculture to a five-year term.   USDA seeks nominations for the following five (5) positions on the NOSB:   Two (2) organic farmers/producers, Two (2) public or consumer interest group representatives, and One (1) USDA accredited certifying agent.   Committee member duties include:   Attending committee meetings (travel paid by USDA) Participating in bi-monthly subcommittee conference calls Reviewing materials and/or recommending changes to the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances Advising the Secretary on other aspects of the USDA organic regulations   Written nominations must include a cover letter, resume, and an AD-755 Application Form, and must be postmarked on or before May 15, 2015. More Information:   Call for Nominations Flyer (PDF) Press Release: USDA Seeks Nominations for the National Organic Standards Board  Federal Register Notice: Intent to Renew Charter and Call for Nominations (Includes Application Instructions) (PDF)  NOSB Membership AD755 Application (PDF) Criteria for NOSB Membership (PDF) For more information: NOSB Nominations Webpage   

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Leafhoppers, Hornworm and Skeletonizer Reported on Grapes Now

Leafhopper damage to grape leaf. They are on the undersides of the leaves. I received an email from a reader who reported leafhoppers already on grape leaves. I had another person report sphinx moths flying now (this moth lays eggs that make the hornworm) and another person reported skeletonizer moths (black or metallic dark blue) flying around the grapes. Dead sphynx moth on the sidewalk. They lead to hornworms. This came out of Arizona and southern Nevada but would be relevant for the low and middle desert elevations (500 to 3000 ft). If you had leafhoppers last year you can expect them this year. These are tiny little bugs that hop off of the grape leaves when you walk by them. Some people report that they “swarm” or fly off the leaves. They can’t really do this but because they are so small and there are hundreds of them it may seem like it. To find them now you must look on the UNDERSIDES of the leaves. If they are not controlled early, their numbers will begin to build over the season as they continue to multiply. Once the adults get established they are very difficult to control without using some very harsh conventional pesticides. Skeletonizer moth. Leafhoppers don’t do a lot of damage to homeowner grapes except for the tiny black dots (feces) they leave behind on fruit and leaves. Commercially this is a problem. But they are a nuisance. One of the most effective treatments when they are young is a spray of Spinosad. Spinosad is an “organic” insecticide. Even though it is organic, it is rough on bees so never spray if flowers are present. Spinosad is also very effective on the “worms” or caterpillars that you find on grapes. This includes the hornworm and the grape leaf skeletonizer. I would make two applications of Spinosad to the grapes now and repeat it in about 10 days to two weeks later. After this time inspect your grapes for these three pests and apply it when you first see them. Use a wetting agent like EZ Wet mixed in the spray. Use a hose end applicator or compressed air sprayer (best) and make sure you spray UP (the bottom of the leaves get wet). Repeat the spray on by spraying down (tops of the leaves). Spray just enough to wet the leaves. Bt sprays will control the skeletonizer and the hornworm but not the leafhoppers. You must control leafhoppers early.

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Pomegranates Produce Best in Full Sun

Q. I’m not getting a big crop of pomegranates this year. I have one Wonderful and one Utah, each about 6 years old. I had about 4 dozen fruit last year.  We have a large ash tree in the yard which throws some shade but the pomegranates both get morning sun. Five-year-old pomegranate during winter A. To produce fruit, pomegranate needs at least six hours of sunlight and does best in full sun. As shade increases, the number of flowers and fruits decrease. Pomegranates produce flowers on new growth. If you are getting lots of new growth and there is enough sunlight there is no reason you should not be getting lots of flowers. The key is the number of flowers it’s producing. If the tree is not producing flowers it can’t produce fruit. If you have lots of flowers but few fruit then the problem may be insect related, e.g., leaf footed plant bug.Check the plant for the presence of this insect on the leaves. To stimulate flower production it needs quite a bit of water to push new growth. The amount of water depends on plant size. A six-year-old pomegranate should be at least 6 feet tall and 4 or 5 feet across. Pomegranate requires as much light as possible for good flower and fruit production. Reduced light causes a reduction in flowers and fruit. Another indicator of water is leaf density. The plant canopy should be so dense you can’t see through it. If it is not dense, it’s not getting enough water. Annual fertilizer application is important in quality production. Pruning comes into play but if pomegranate is not pruned correctly it still produces lots of fruit but the fruit will be smaller in size. Give the pomegranate as much light as possible. Remove lower limbs on the ash tree for better production, apply a fertilizer in early spring to push growth and make sure it gets plenty of water.

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Water Needs of Gopher Plant Different in Small Containers

Gopher plant of readers growing in container Q. My wife and I are fairly new to the Vegas area.  She is the gardener and we are trying to grow gopher plants in containers. The containers are about 12 inches in diameter and the plants are not doing well. They are watered once every week or two and we added a plant tonic two weeks ago.  A. Gopher plant does very well in our climate planted directly in the soil or in containers. Remember that the stems die after flowering. Flowering is normally in the spring and sometimes again in the fall. Cut stems back to the ground after flowering. There will be some small stems growing from the base. You must let these grow and not cut them back. Fertilize lightly after cutting back. The two basic problems with gopher plants are either related to the soil that is used or irrigation practices. If this plant is watered too often you will kill it. If you do not water it often enough you will damage it. If the soil used does not drain easily, you will kill it. The usual reason for failure is watering too often and poor water drainage. I have had good reports from people using cactus juice fertilizer on cacti and succulents. Let me know how it works for you. When planting this in a container make sure that you use a soil mix made for this type of plant. A cactus and succulent soil mix would be preferred. It will struggle if you planted directly into our desert soils without improving them. The plant is easier to maintain if planted directly into the ground. Make sure you amend the soil so that it has good drainage. It will do well in a soil that contains compost. It will handle low winter temperatures but could be damaged if winter temperatures get extremely low, into the teens for instance. Fertilize it with a cactus fertilizer such as Cactus Juice every 2 to 3 months when you water. I have two or three postings about gopher plants on my blog. Type in gopher plant in the search engine and see if that information helps. Posts on my blog that you can click on which are related: http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/11/what-killed-my-gopher-plant.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/05/gopher-plant-adds-interest-to-desert.html

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Harvested Hard Peaches Will Ripen

Q. I just picked all these because the birds were getting them. Will they ripen enough to eat?  I covered the others with netting that are still on the tree   Do I need to put them in the sun or in brown paper? A. Pick them! They will ripen at room temperature in 2 to 4 days I would guess. If you can keep the humidity up in some way it will reduce their water loss.  But keep them at 65 to 80F if at all possible and out of the sun. They do not need to be in paper bags. Once fully ripened you can put them in the fridge.

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Peaches Can Be Harvested Early

Q. Can I pick peaches when the color starts and will they ripen? A. You can pick peaches when the color begins to change from green to yellowish green or even beyond. I prefer to wait at least until the color has solidly changed from green to yellow but are still firm. Peach fruit with color breaking from green to red. They can be harvested at this stage and they will ripen but the quality will be lower than if they were left to ripen to a more mature stage on the tree. Birds are not yet interested in them at this stage. At this stage they will continue to ripen after they are harvested if they are kept at room temperature. They will develop better flavor if left on the tree as long as possible. If birds are not a problem then I prefer to leave them until the fruit has changed color and the flesh has softened just a little bit from being hard as a rock. At this point, the birds are looking at them and not quite sure if they want to peck them or not. This is the stage also when some of the more hungry birds will peck at them anyway. When I first start to see bird damage I know I’d better get them off the tree.

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What Causes Apricot Fruit to Drop?

Q. I’ve had my apricot tree about 15 years. Last year it had a huge crop. This year it had lots of blossoms, swarms of bees, but almost no fruit set. The remaining fruit has dropped off. There is sap on one of the branches and I’m wondering if it has bugs or is it just is taking a year off? Plum fruit turning yellow due to lack of fertilization (talking flower sex, not fertilizers). Other fruits, green, set. The yellowones drop from the tree during “June drop” which actually occurs in April here. Yes, I know the question is about apricots butI do not have any apricot pictures like this. A. Some fruit trees do take a year off. This is called alternate bearing. However, alternate bearing decreases fruit production by reducing the number of flowers, not the dropping the fruit. Unless the tree is dying I doubt it is due to sap and the bugs. See the “yellow” plum getting ready to drop? It will abort. The green oneswill continue to develop. Flowering, followed by the dropping of small fruit, usually indicates poor pollination. Small fruit drops because the pollen was not transferred to the female part of the flower. Or, if it was transferred, it did not result in fertilization. When fertilization doesn’t occur, fruit may still form, grow a little bit in size, but then yellow and abort or drop from the tree. Fruit abortion typically happens when the fruit gets about the size of a dime or even smaller. Healthy fruit may abort if the soil is too dry. When soil dries, fruit trees will try saving themselves by first dropping fruit and, if the threat persists, dropping leaves as well. If weed killers are sprayed close to a tree and the spray (even fumes from the spray on a hot or windy day) may drift toward the tree and cause fruit drop. Applying too much fertilizer close to the tree trunk can also cause fruit drop. There are a couple of older apricot varieties that need pollinators. If it is one of these varieties and a neighbor’s tree died that was pollinating it then this might also be a problem. Inspect your tree for insects. Some insects, such as the leaf footed plant bug, can cause fruit drop. If your tree had a large number of these insects feeding on small fruit, it could cause fruit drop. 

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Black Spots on Tomato Leaves May Be Septoria

Q. I have these small black spots developing all over my tomato leaves. Any idea what is wrong with my tomato plant?  Possible Septoria leaf spot disease on new transplants A. From your pictures it looks like you could have a couple of things going on. The tiny black or brown spots on the leaves may be a disease called Septoria leaf spot. As a precaution, I would apply a fungicide for vegetables immediately and follow the label directions to a tee. Any general fungicide for vegetables will work. It usually requires several applications in sequence. Push some new growth with a light application of a tomato fertilizer. Another shot of possible Septoria. Fungicides are primarily meant for disease prevention, not for curing a disease once the plant has it. Applying a fungicide protects new growth as it emerges so new growth should be healthy while the infected growth does not get worse. The other option is to pull it out and start over. Secondly, never apply irrigation water with a sprinkler; use drip irrigation. If you bought these plants from a local store it probably came with the plant when it was grown in the greenhouse and shipped to the store. This disease is fairly easy to control if a greenhouse is kept clean and the plants kept healthy. Such is the problem when buying low-priced transplants. They were most likely infected when you bought them. There were probably some leaves already showing these spots. Your other pictures show leaves of tomato with edges that are scorching. These scorched margins have a yellow inner margin. This is possible salt damage. Reminds me more of salt damage but …… Soak the soil with water. Use a soil wetting agent like EZ Wet or comparable and apply it to the soil to remove salts. Hopefully you amended your soil with compost at the time of planting and you used a pre plant fertilizer. Also some leaves showed signs of yellowing which may be due to lack of fertilizer applied at the time of planting. Once tomatoes start setting fruit it is important to feed them lightly to continue healthy growth. Take a look at these fact sheets and pics. Cornell’s Fact Sheet on Septoria on Tomato Missouri Botanical Garden Fact Sheet on Septoria on Tomato

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Deformed Lilac Leaves Maybe a Sign of Problems

Q. My lilac bush had some leaves on it that suddenly look like they are deformed. What is the problem? A. Deformed or crinkled leaves can indicate several things. If the edges of the leaves were damaged, scorched, the interior of the leaf will continue to grow while the dead margin will not. This can cause leaf deformity called cupping. Stink bug Feeding damage by some bugs on leaf buds before they open can cause crinkled or deformed leaves. These include the stink bug group of insects such as the leaf footed plant bugs. Look for bugs on the bottom of the leaves or crawling on stems. Leaf deformity can be caused by “weed killer” sprays that drifted on the foliage during windy or hot weather. Some herbicides, like dandelion killers for lawns, cause leaf deformity if it comes in contact with leaves as they are enlarging or expanding. Squash bugs, one of the stink bug types Bottom line, most likely the damage is temporary and as more leaves develop they should be normal. However, if you inspect the plant and see these types of insects apply an insecticide for ornamental plants and spray leaves and stems during early morning hours. Spray the undersides of leaves because this is where most the bugs hang out. Make sure the plant gets enough water. This is a plant that likes compost and wood mulch, not rock mulch. Lilacs do not like rocks covering the surface of the soil. Every year apply 1/2 cubic foot of compost on top of the mulch and water it in. Use a high phosphorus fertilizer that promotes flowering of woody plants.

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