Xtremehorticulture

Organic Soil Amendments at Planting vs No Organic Amendments

Q.  I’m planting new fruit trees and landscape trees this year. I noticed there is a consensus out there that fruit trees, trees and shrubs should be backfilled with native soil without using any amendments. However, is there an exception in Las Vegas with the soil is exceptionally poor? Typical “native” or “natural” desert soil in Las Vegas. Would you plant directly in this? I hope not. Here is the SAME soil (25 feet away) ten years later after wood chips were spread on the soil surface and water was applied for fruit trees. Now which soil would plants be “happier” growing in? A. You are right and my advice is bucking conventional advice from most places. For instance, using native soil for backfill in North Carolina will be fine in most cases. But it also depends on what is planted. Many urban landscapes have “fill” that was brought in by the developer or general contractor. Most fill…No, I take that back…ALL fill… used in urban desert settings is junk. Using soil amendments depends on the soil and also the plants. Let me explain why. Desert Soils Vary in Organic Content             Some desert soils are okay to plant into directly and you will have few problems. Others are not. Much of it depends on the organic matter content of the soil and the type of plants. If your soil contains at least 5% organic matter at the time of planting, the addition of organics to the soil as a soil amendment probably won’t do much. If the plants going into the soil prefer growing in highly organic soils, you are probably going to see a problem if the organic content is only 5%.For instance, a soil with low organic content but suitable for lawn grasses or some trees and shrubs will not be suitable for annual flowers or vegetables.  Soils are a Mixture of Sand, Silt, Clay AND Organics             Soils are a mixture of minerals and organic content that results from dead plants and animals that decompose into the soil. Desert soils with very low rainfall like ours. This is a jar test. I have students do this to their soils at home. First of all, the soil is darker in color which means it has organics in it unless it is a soil like a Latersol in the tropics. This is NOT a desert soil. I can tell from the color. The organic component has mixed in with the soil particles and colored it darker but the larger stuff either floats on the surface or is the very top layer on top of the clay layer.             When planting without soil amendments such as compost, soil organic matter content should be at least 5% if you don’t want the plants to be “unhealthy”. If it is lower than this, add organic content to the soil such as a good quality compost. Mix it with the soil taken from the planting hole.             Another option is to use a soil mix for filling the planting hole around the tree roots or container roots. Soil mixes are like Hamburger Helper; they contain organics and it is convenient and easier to use than mixing the soil yourself. Soil color can tell you alot about a soil. This cark soil color tells me there is a good amount of organics in it and will not need to be amended for lawns and some trees and shrubs.             Be careful of adding too much organic content to the soil. This can work against the establishment of the plant in the surrounding soil. This is the situation with research done in Oklahoma, Arizona and other states. These practices of “not adding organic matter” to the soil at planting is from their research with soils already high enough in organic matter to make little difference after platning. This is the same desert soil you saw above. Organics are added to this desert soil AND the soil is covered in wood chips to add organics to the soil over time as long as there is rain or irrigation. Many soils of the Mojave Desert with very low rainfall are extremely low in organics. Soils in the desert that are relatively high in rainfall or were previously farm land (under irrigation). These are usually already high enough in organics and adding more does little, if any, good. Using the deserts of the Southwest as an example (Sonoran, Mojave, Chihuhuan, Great Basin) they range in historical rainfall from 4 inches to over 10 inches of rainfall each year. This is a 250% difference depending on locale!!! Of course we will see different types of plants and a difference in plant density and canopy size when we compare desert environments with a difference in rainfall of 250%!!! This is reflected in soil differences there as well. We see differences in organic content, salts, pH, etc. Map of the US showing organic content of soils and how it varies with rainfall. Desert soils are always lower in soil organics than soils in wetter climates unless they are amended. How Do You Know the Organic Content of a Soil? We can send it to a soil testing laboratory and spend maybe $75 to $100 and wait for three weeks for a reply or use our noggin and get a rough approximation. The soil testing lab will give you a precise amount in the sample sent to them. If the sample sent to them is representative of the soil that interests us, then it may be fairly accurate. But, garbage in, garbage out. If the sample is NOT a good representation of the soil that interests us then it is garbage. Look at the soil Soil color is a pretty good indicator of soil organic content. Rich soils, full of organics are brown to black. The lighter the color, the less organics in it. If the soil is moist and dark brown, you probably don’t have to add anything. If

Organic Soil Amendments at Planting vs No Organic Amendments Read More »

Italian Cypress and Twisted Juniper Struggling in the Desert

Q. So, I live in the high desert of Southeastern Utah, about 4500 feet. Minimal precip. Temps up to 110 in summer and down to 20s at night in the winter. Fast draining soil, actually just sand, but I do amend some when planting to “slow the flow” and try to make it more like soil. I have 2 Italian Cypress about 4-5 years old and 3 Hollywood Juniper about 3 years old. They were doing well up till  beginning of last year. Now something seems to be killing them from the ground up. Initially I thought maybe rabbits were eating them but I no longer think that. I have tried more water, less water, more amendments, iron, etc. Spray with Liqui-Cop after leaf fall on my fruit trees and include the conifers. The Cypress seem to be doing a bit better than the Juniper, at least there is some green growth there. The Juniper look like they are totally dried out and peeling away. Can you tell me if it is a disease? Insects? Critters? And what I can do about it, if anything, before they die completely! Guess my question is whether you think I can save the cypress or should I just give up? A. You live in some beautiful country.   Why are the lower branches of the Italian cypress missing? Was this due to rabbits? I have seen rabbits devour newly planted, small pine trees during the winter but this is the first time I have seen it on Italian cypress. I think you have a problem with these lower branches removed from the Italian cypress. Those lower branches are needed for several reasons. First, that foliage produces energy for the tree and improves growth by providing energy for its growth. Without that foliage, new growth is going to be minimal and weak. Secondly, the growth along the trunk is needed for proper trunk development. Branches are needed for the trunk to develop proper caliper, i.e., taper along the trunk. Without this growth, the trunk never gets strong enough to remain upright or erect. The plant will never get strong enough to remain upright. When they are planted make sure they get a good soil amendment such as compost and not just planting amendment. If you use planting amendment, make sure you put some 16-20-0 or some type of starter fertilizer at planting time. They should be fertilized at least once a year in early spring. If in sandy soil, twice a year. If this was rabbit damage, next time plant them with a cylinder of 1 inch hexagonal chicken wire around them to keep the rabbits from eating them. I would use 3 to 4 ft tall cylinders. Jackrabbits can reach up to nearly 3 feet when they are on their back legs. Eating foliage that high should not be a problem but lower foliage missing will be a problem. I think you may have some sun damage to the lower trunk on the cypress from missing branches along the trunk. Check for borer damage in them as well. Hollywood junipers are notorious for borer damage. Look close at the trunks and I am willing to bet you have them. Use Bayer Insect Control as a liquid drench around these to protect them from borer damage. Better yet, don’t plant them here. Plant something else.   Borers in Hollywood Twisted Juniper from 25 years ago I think it will be okay. I would just protect it with some chicken wire if rabbits are the cause. You need to push new growth. That will be done with fertilizer and timely watering. Fertilize twice during the year, February and again in about June. Throw one or two handfuls of fertilizer about a foot from the base of the tree and sprinkled on the soil. Water it in. If you have basins, put it in the basins and water it in. Keep fertilizer away from direct contact with the trunk. You have the self watering containers around the base. I am wondering why you are not using the drip irrigation that is there in the pictures. Italian cypress like wet winters and dry summers. Water as you would any tree during the summer. Probably twice a week during high temperatures and I would give them about 5-10 gallons when they are small each time you watered. Winter time maybe once  a week or ten days. Keep the amount of water you apply the same each time. Apply this amount of water more often as it gets warmer.

Italian Cypress and Twisted Juniper Struggling in the Desert Read More »

When to Cut Back Lantana

Q. When is the best time to trim Lantana and how much of the plant should I cut back the plant? Thanks for your response. Cutting back lantana during the winter and re-growth in the spring A.  Cut them back to 1 inch above the soil after a hard freeze and leaf drop. If it is a warm winter and there is no hard freeze, cut them back 1 inch above the soil before spring growth occurs. In Las Vegas that would be late January. Apply your favorite fertilizer or compost, water and stand back.

When to Cut Back Lantana Read More »

Compost in Trash Can Stuck

Q. I’m composting in plastic trash cans with holes. It’s taking a very long time to make compost despite adding carbon to my grass clippings and kitchen waste. I water and turn it every few days. What am I doing wrong?  A. There could be several reasons why.  Perhaps the volume of compost is too small. If the amount of compost is too small, it will never produce enough heat on its own. If the air temperature is cold and the compost pile small, the composting process will be very slow.  Maybe it’s too windy. Composting is difficult in areas where there is significant wind or too much sun. Compost develops better in shady areas of the yard without wind.  The compost ingredients might not be high enough in nitrogen. Compost ingredients are divided into two categories; “brown” ingredients which are loaded with carbon and “green” ingredients which are loaded with nitrogen. Compost should have significant amounts of “green” ingredients or use animal manure.  The compost may be too dry or too wet. Compost needs to be moist but not sopping wet. Compost is like a living organism; it needs air to “breathe” and moisture.  Microorganisms are needed in the mix. I reserve a small amount of compost from the previous mix to act as a “starter” for the new mix. Or I will put in a couple of pounds of garden soil just for the microorganisms.   Solve these problems and the composting process will speed up. 

Compost in Trash Can Stuck Read More »

Fig Fruit Production Not on/off Switch

Q. Would a fig tree produce figs if it got sun in the spring, fall and summer months but not the winter? I have lots of spots to plant trees but a house blocks winter sun. The amount of light and the quality of light is important in flower and fruit production as well as increasing the branching of some plants. All plants have a minimum amount of light required to flower and maintain fruit production. The amount needed varies among plants but generally most of flowering and fruiting plants need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day A. Success depends on how much sunlight plants get when leaves are out. When leaves are gone, sunlight is not nearly as important. Winter sunlight is not terribly important for trees in our climate because it is cold and the plant is dormant or “resting”. But light during spring and summer months, when leaves are out, is very important. That is when sunlight is critical.             Fruit production is usually not controlled by an “on and off” switch. As the total amount of light decreases, the amount of fruit produced also decreases. At some point, if the plant does not receive enough light, flowering and fruiting stops. The amount of sunlight needed for flowering and fruiting varies somewhat among plants but fruit trees generally need a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight. If sunlight continues to decline during months when leaves are out, at some point, there won’t be enough light for the plant to make flowers and produce fruit. It stops producing fruit, only leaves and stems.   Foliage plant, and interior plant that produces only leaves and stems, growing under very low light conditions in the Amsterdam airport men’s bathroom. This plant was selected because it requires a very low light levels to produce leaves and stems and can take a very tough conditions.             If a fig tree is getting a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight when leaves are present, it will probably produce decent fruit. Not all this light has to be direct sunlight. Reflected light also counts but not as much.In direct light, light from bright reflecting surfaces, will contribute to flowering and fruit production but more indirect light is needed than direct light. Much of this depends on the total amount of light as measured in footcandles per hour or watts per square meter per hour. The quality of light, the color, is also important because it can trigger some types of behavior in plants.             Fruit production also depends on the “quality” of reflected light. If light is reflected off shiny or white surfaces, then plants receive more light than light reflected from darker or variously colored surfaces.

Fig Fruit Production Not on/off Switch Read More »

Roundup Does Not Cause Root Damage of Saguaro If Properly Applied

Q. My Saguaro cactus is beginning to lean and I’m afraid it will fall over. Landscapers were spraying weeds with Roundup on top of the soil near it. Will Roundup hurt my Saguaro and Prickly Pear cacti?  Did the Roundup make the Saguaro lean by hurting its roots? Do you know anyone in the Coachella Valley who can put a brace on it so it doesn’t fall over? A. To kill or damage plants, Roundup must be sprayed onto the green parts of the plant. Older parts of the plant which are not green or no longer green won’t absorb any. If your gardeners sprayed the ground surrounding the Saguaro there should be no problem for the Saguaro.             There is an exception. Roundup can move in water and cause damage. Never spray Roundup where there is moving water.             Any pesticide including Roundup can move with wind or significant air movement. Never spray when there is air movement over 2 mph. never spray the hot surface of a soil or rock because pesticides can volatilize, move upwards with warm air and damage plants.              As long as landscapers or applicators are careful around plants there should be no problems.             In my opinion, the reason your Saguaro started leaning is because of how it’s irrigated. Saguaros support themselves with roots that extend long distances from the plant. This stabilizes it as it gets taller.             If irrigation is applied close to the trunk and there is no other water available then roots will not grow very far. As it gets larger, it gets top-heavy and these short routes can no longer keep it upright.             What to do? I sent you a picture of how to properly support a Saguaro after it has been planted and until I can get established. Install other plants with drip irrigation at several distances away from the Saguaro. If the soil is wet, the roots of the Saguaro will find this water and grow further from the trunk.

Roundup Does Not Cause Root Damage of Saguaro If Properly Applied Read More »

Fall Planting Fig No Problem If They Don’t Freeze

Q. Can I plant fig trees in the Fall or should I wait to buy these trees in the spring? A. Plant in the Fall. Fall is the best time to plant all fruit trees including figs. The problem is finding varieties of fruit trees that you want. But if you find the tree you want, if it is not sensitive to freezing temperatures, plant it. Figs handles temperatures down to about 10°F or -12°C.             The best time for planting freeze tolerant plants is in the Fall. Begin planting as temperatures cool from the summer heat. In Las Vegas this is towards the end of September through the middle of November.             All the fig varieties grow well in the Mojave Desert if the soil is improved at the time of planting, they get enough water and it is delivered at the right time.

Fall Planting Fig No Problem If They Don’t Freeze Read More »