Xtremehorticulture

This Question on Drip Irrigation Made My Head Hurt!

Q. I have a LOT of different shrubs and trees on only 2 valves. I don’t know how to water them. The shrubs have 2 drip emitters for each shrub and they range from 2 each at 2gph (gallon per hour; gallon = 4 liters) for plants like photinia, red autumn sage, fountain grass, jasmine vines, rhaphiolepsis etc.; 2 each at 4gph for euonymous, abelias, boxwood, honeysuckle vines etc. The trees have more emitters. My landscaper told me to water 6 days per week for twice for 20 minutes each day (equals 4hrs/week). The nursery people advised me to water only 3 times each week for 45 minutes each day. Another nursery advised 6 days each week. So, what to do? My biggest problem is my 8 year old magnolia tree, trunk diameter about 5″, has 4 each a t 4gph emitters. It used to be very full, now it’s about 10 ‘ high; the leaves are dark brown, dry and falling off.  All help would be appreciated. A. You even confused me! In their defense I would have to say it’s possible that all three could be right. Because plants are adaptable to different situations there can be several right answers to one irrigation question. Nurseries are there to provide service, the best answers they can muster up. I am an educator so let me take a stab at it from an educator’s point of view. I would like to give you enough information so you can solve your own problem with irrigation. But in my opinion, two valves are not enough to give you the flexibility of different watering schedules with all your plants and different microclimates. Bear with me on this. Let’s all agree for the most part that as plants get larger they will require more water. Let’s also agree that large plants will use more water, and considerably more water, than smaller plants. The larger the plant, the more water it needs and should receive. Three irrigation valves. They are basically on and off switches for water. Irrigation valves are basically an on and off switch for water; when the valve is open, water flows. When the valve is closed, water stops flowing. Since you have one valve in the front and one valve in the back, these switches open water to all of your plants in the front at the same time and the valve in the back does the same for plants in the back. There are three basic questions that must be answered when irrigating; 1) how long to water, 2) how much should be applied, and 3) when to apply it. The valves basically solve the question how long to water (on/off). Button type drip emitter Flag type drip emitter. The drip emitters solve the question about how much to water. An irrigation clock answers the question when/how often to water. The irrigation valves allow water to flow a length of time and the emitters determine the amount of water applied to each plant during that time. The length of time the valve is open combined with the size of the emitter determine the amount of water delivered to each plant. This is where the confusion begins. To make it as easy as possible to irrigate let’s hold one of these variables constant. Arbitrarily, let’s hold the length of time the irrigation valve is open: one hour.  Just for the sake of argument. It could be 30 minutes, it could be 90 minutes, but let’s just hold it at 60 minutes. If we make this decision first, how many minutes to open the valves, it can make our other decisions much more simple. So we now agree the valve will be open for 60 minutes for our drip emitters. For me, this is a common length of time to leave the valve open for drip emitters. To determine how much water each plant will get we have to size our drip emitters; the gallons per hour we want to use. Because of plugging, it can be dangerous to give plants only one emitter. If that emitter plugs, chances are we will lose the plant in a short period of time during our extreme summer heat. Three different button drip emitters color coded for three different amounts of water per hour (gallons or liters per hour) To determine how much water to give the plant at each watering (or when the valve is on) we look at its size. The smaller plants of course require less every time the valve is on. So for the sake of argument let’s do this. Let’s give a plant 1 gallon of water every time the valve is open (in this case one hour) for every foot of its mature size. Example only! A very small plant may get 1 to 2 gallons.  A medium-sized plant may get 3 to 6 gallons.  A large shrub may get 8 to 15 gallon every time it’s watered. The larger the plant, the more emitters it will need under its canopy. A very small plant may require one to two emitters.  A medium sized plant might require 3 to 4 emitters.  A large shrub might require 6 to 8 emitters.  So now you will take the number of gallons you are giving this plant and divide it by the number of emitters you will provide for each plant. When you do this, you will determine the number and size of the emitters you will give to each plant. So for instance a medium sized plant may get 3 to 6 gallons at each watering delivered by 3 to 4 emitters. So the size of the emitters might be 1 to 2 gallons per hour. But I would keep all the emitters going to one plant at the same size.    It doesn’t make much difference if it’s one or 2 gallons more than you calculated. What is important is that you apply enough water during one irrigation to

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Never Plant or Transplant into a Dry Hole

Compost and soils amended heavily with composts can present some problems with transplants and seeds if you are not careful. I did some of my own testing with some local composts and guess what I found out! People contacted me who had problems with vegetable transplants and even fruit trees after planting in composted soil. I did some of my own testing with transplants, seed and fruit trees.             When planting in composted soils you can create problems if you are not careful, particularly now when temperatures are getting hotter. Here are my recommendations.              Never plant directly into any dry soil. I realize it is easier sometimes to plant directly into dry soils. However, roots of transplants and fruit trees, particularly bare root, are very tender. When young tender plant roots come in contact with dry soils, they desiccate or dry out very quickly. Root desiccation and death can happen in seconds, not minutes.             This is called “transplant shock”. When tender roots dieback, the plant has to make new roots to replace them. The plant wilts, leaves may get brown edges or leaves may dieback. If the plant cannot recover from this “shock”, it can die. Transplant shock, if it doesn’t kill the plant, can set it back days or even weeks. In trees transplant shock can last a month or longer.             Transplant shock is worse on small plants because they cannot recover as easily as larger plants. It is also worse when it is windy, air temperatures are high and the amount of compost added to the soil is high.             Always make sure soil is wet when transplanting. Don’t think you can plant in a dry hole and quickly water the plant.              There are good salts and bad salts. Fertilizers are good salts. But too much of a good thing can also be bad. If the compost is particularly rich, it can damage plants if it is not kept wet when planting.             As a precaution when you have purchased or amended garden soil, water the soil and let it drain two or three times before planting. This helps to “flush” some of the salts from these “rich” soils.             Wet the soil before planting. This helps reduce root desiccation due dry soils and “dilutes” salts contained in the soil.             Water transplants thoroughly, immediately after planting in wet soil. Do not rely on just the drip system to water plants immediately after planting. When planting during warm weather months, from April through September, water twice a day with a hose for one week right after transplanting.

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Brown Bumps on Quince Branches Probably Scale Insects

Q. We have a three year old Quince tree which looked very good to me until today when I noticed brown or dark purple, small, pee-sized bumps on the top brunches. Removing the bumps causes a fluid to ooze out. I guess the fluid must be sweet since there are ants running up and down the branch. A. From your description, and the pictures you sent, it looks like it might be one of the scale insects. Yes, the picture is blurred but those are frequently the kind of pics i get. Just have to use your imangination a bit but I think i can see brown scale on the branches.             I have never seen scale insects on quince in the Las Vegas valley but they do infest trees in other climates. Scale insects, particularly the soft scales, will exude a sugary liquid that drips on limbs and leaves and attracts ants.             They are easy to squish and act just like you are describing it. There is an insect under the harder outer shell. Young are produced by the female and they leave the protection of the mother’s shell, move about and find a new home. Here they can suck plant juices and also build their own protective shell on the outside of their body. This is oleander scale and you can see they are quite similar. Basic biology is the same. Soft bodied insect under a hard shell. They feed under that shell which protects them from predators and insecticides. Systemic insecticides will get them or waiting for them to come out and they are then vulnerable. They come out to mate and when they are ready to find a new home.             The usual method of control is using horticultural oils and spraying the oil on the plant to suffocate the insect. This is done in winter or early spring.             If you are lucky enough to see the young emerge and start looking for a home, most any spray will kill them including soap and water sprays like Safers insecticidal soap. But you will have to spray oils and soap and water sprays through the year to get them under control.             Once under control an oil spray in the dormant season such as winter months when it is warm should help keep the populations reduced.             A wild guess from the picture, it might be brown soft scale particularly because you mentioned the ants.

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Asparagus Production in Kosovo Just Taking Off

Kosovo is now an exporter of asparagus inside its own country, to the EU and beyond. I was there consulting in 2013 and 2014. They are filling their first orders now thanks to a USAID project, CNFA and Tetra Tech. Kosovo was born as a result of the four Yugoslav Wars during the 1990’s. The Kosovo War was the last of the four wars fought in 1999. Kosovo is still not recognized as a country by some political entities. Kosovo is in the process of rebuilding and agriculture is a key ingredient in that process. Farmers in Kosovo had never tasted asparagus before. In fact, very few of the ethnic Albanians and 80% moderate Muslims living there had. But the potential for production due to its climate and location to other countries whose people consumed it (Germany, Netherlands, France. Belgium, UK) appeared promising. Farm land in Kosovo countryside Around the same latitude as Oceana County, Michigan, the self-proclaimed capital of asparagus production in the US, the climate was promising for many crops that favored cold winters and warm summers. Asparagus trials were started, farmers interested in diversifying their crops joined in committing their land and labor and they were on their way. Pests are not a big problem yet on asparagus there yet because it is pretty isolated from asparagus production areas in Europe. The biggest problem is weed control. Weeds will dramatically reduce production and harbor pests and diseases. The good farmers control weeds. The less committed, don’t. Planting with crowns grown outside the country, spears look good from the better farmers. Asparagus can keep fairly long (2 to 3 weeks) after harvest if cooled immediately after harvesting, temperatures are kept low (33 to 35F) and humidity is high (95%). But it has to be cooled as soon as harvested. Every hour not cooled = loss of 1 day in harvest life. Asparagus trials in Kosovo Hydrocooler built in Kosovo for a small fraction of its commercial price will lower the temperature of asparagus spears to 34F using ice cold water before putting it into refrigerated coolers. Once spears are harvested in the fields they are quickly transported to a central facility for washing, grading and sorting, hydrocooling, and packing before put inside the cooler. Project technical advisors figuring out the grading and sorting procedures before training Kosovo farmers. Asparagus spears have different grading requirements depending on the market so each must be established before the process starts. Asparagus spears bagged to keep the humidity high and prevent losses from dehydration Getting my selfie in before the Ambassador shows up for the kickoff at the Swiss Diamond Hotel in Prishtina, Kosovo. There is the asparagus display for the event showing the asparagus graded, sorted and wrapped in rubber bands of about 350 g each. Plastic bags keep them fresh and looking good. Boxes are for shipping on palettes for export.

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Leaf Cupping Normally Aphids…But Not This Time!

Q. My Blenheim apricot tree planted in 2012 is not doing well. A few branches have lost all their leaves. Other leaves are starting to curl and cup. This year it had plenty of apricots but few leaves. I thinned them out since the tree is young. Note: Since this posting I have had numerous emails and pictures about a flurry of activity from stinkbugs in the valley. Stinkbugs are notorious for this kind of damage because there is not much to feed on early in the season and expanding buds/leaves are tender and juicy. I had to go out on this one and Andy spotted the critter before I did. Sometimes you just need an extra pair of eyes. A. First thing I see in the picture you sent is that you have wood mulch. Please pull it back 12 inches from the trunk. The symptoms you sent to me could be damage to the trunk from wet mulch.             Cupping is due to damage to leaf edges, not the entire leaf. The damage to leaf edges could be lack of water, salt damage, wind damage, damage from sprays or insects. Leaf cupping due to damage to the leaf margins followed by expansive growth from the center outward.             The lack of water could be either from a lack of applied water or damage to the trunk from wet mulch.             Salt burn can be from applying fertilizer too close to the trunk or applying a heavy rate of fertilizers in the irrigation basin. Always keep fertilizer at least a foot from the trunk.             It is best if the fertilizer is buried slightly in the soil or there is wood mulch present to keep the fertilizers from washing against the trunk after watering. Water the soil generously when applying fertilizers.             When watering the fertilizer into the soil and you do not have wood mulch, try not to flood the basin around the tree. This can push fertilizers against the trunk and cause damage.               Even “hot” manures like chicken or other poultry manure can cause problems like this if they get too close to the tree trunk. This stinkbug was not Andy’s. This is from someone else down in Henderson area. Andy’s was brown but looked the same otherwise.             We have had quite a number of reports of stinkbugs in neighborhoods in Henderson and other places. Stinkbugs can cause feeding damage to leaves as they are expanding, causing leaf cupping. Look for stinkbugs on the trees and apply an appropriate insecticide if they are present in large numbers. This is actually one of Andy’s stinkbugs from last year. I am sure he died of old age. Not Andy, the stinkbug.

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Meet Local Producer Janet Knight in Las Vegas, Nevada, USA

Here is one local producer in Las Vegas, yes IN Las Vegas, who has a backyard farm and welcomes visitors. If you like this, I will help you find some other local producers. Janet and Don Knight have a farm. E-I-E-I-O…..In Las Vegas, Nevada. They grow great food, have fresh eggs, supply food to local restaurants and chefs, provide classes on producing food and home canning and even run a subscription service for weekly food baskets. They are located Cheyenne and North Torrey Pines (west of Rancho). Give them a call  or drop them a line. They would love to hear from you! Contact Janet Knight  [email protected] (702) 239-2802 Janet with her Rainbow Chard   …and lettuce …and Henrietta

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Harvest Garlic When the tops Dieback About 1/3 Where it is a Hot Climate

Q. I planted garlic back in the fall. It is close to harvest now, fully grown and some tops starting to brown. I pulled one the other day to check them. It seems fine and full of cloves with the papery outer skin, but the stalk above is very thick and dense. I’m wondering do I hang them to dry, and if so, for how long.  A. You harvest garlic when the tops dry down about halfway. No further than this or the paper on the outside of the bulb will disintegrate exposing the cloves. This is the way garlic should look when harvested and dried properly. The papery sheath on the outside is dry and completely encloses the cloves. The tops were cut back to about an inch of the top of the bulb after drying.             You dry them the same way as onions basically. Put them in the shade in open air. Do not wash them first. Chesnok Red garlic hanging outside in the shade after harvest. We chose to harvest and sell garlic this way because it is “different” from buying from the store. Let the buyer take it home and trim it. Its a new experience for some and they like that experience. If they don’t or complain about it, cut it there and weigh it if by the pound.             There are two types of garlic; hardneck and softneck. The softneck you can braid together. The hardneck you cannot. Sounds like you have hardneck. The tops of these Polish White garlics are just starting to brown. Wait until the tops brown down to about 1/3 of its length. No more.             When tops die back, after a week or two, cut the tops back further for storage or future use. I like them the most when they are still fresh from the garden. I think that is when they have the best flavor in my opinion.

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Prepare Your Lawn for the Summer Disease Problems

If you have tall fescue for a lawn in southern Nevada, here are some tips to help prepare for the diseases that will threaten your lawn this summer. Having a lawn in good health, just like you being in good health, is the best protection against summer diseases like summer patch. This is summer patch on tall fescue. It used to be called “frogeye” patch or the more knowledgeable might call it Fusarium patch. The name “Fusarium patch” was thrown out several years ago when it was found not really a correct name for it. The disease starts as some brown areas that start dying in different spots. Then the brown spots coalesce or grow together into this patchwork of dead grass, frequently leaving behind a small clump of grass that is not affected. This gave it the “frogeye” name. You can access the fact sheet I wrote while at the University of Nevada here.  Otherwise you can find it here. Summer Patch fact sheet Prevention. An ounce of prevention… and that is true in this case. Get your fertilizer levels up and adequate. I believe the rates of fertilizer recommended for lawns is way too high. You can reduce that to 50% of what they recommend if you use a mulching mower (you dont bag the clippings it just falls back into the grass). You do need a good mulching mower or at least a mulching blade on your mower. Aerate. Aeration opens the soil up so the roots can “breathe”. This promotes a deeper root system, more heat tolerance and improved disease resistance. Ideally this should be done in about March but if you have not had it done before, do it now. There used to be a landscape maintenance service in Las Vegas that offered this service. Otherwise you will have to rent a gasoline driver aerator from places like Aherns or buy a hand operated aerator and do it by hand. If you go this route it is not hard to do. Just time consuming. Wet the lawn thoroughly and start plugging away. It is good to follow up this activity with a light application of a phosphorus fertilizer and water it in. The correct kind of aerator will leave soil cores behind that you will have to rake up and put in a compost heap. Adjust or correct your sprinklers. Any weakness in your lawn sprinklers you will see now that it is getting hot. Before when it was cool you could sail through this period. As it gets hotter the weak spots will show up as grey green areas between irrigations. (It is grey green because the grass is wilting because your irrigation system was inadequately designed and/or installed.) I don’t know HOW MANY times I have spoken to homeowners that assured me the “sprinkler system” was done right because they did it! My face or voice didnt show it but I was smiling inside. Occasionally, after a couple of questions, I will run into someone who did it right but that is far and few. This is typical of a lawn with a poorly designed or installed irrigation system.  No guarantees. I cannot guarantee success with this next approach but if I had a lawn this is what I would try. I would get or rent a compost spreader (a fertilizer spreader that you push should work as well) and purchase some high quality compost. Compost spreader If I were to send you somewhere in Las Vegas to get the compost, it would be at Viragrow. Get the compost with the finest texture they have so it will pass through the spreader. With this compost spreader I would spread about 1/4 inch of compost over the lawn and water it in thoroughly. I would do this once a month. Next year use this in place of buying a fertilizer. I think you will see a big change in the lawn’s health and appearance. There is a significant amount of research that points to disease reductions in lawns by topdressing with compost several times during the growing season. The Disease has Started If this is the case, you have no choice but to use a fungicide to prevent the spread of the disease. Fungicides will not cure the disease but it should stop it from going further. There are fungicides available at nurseries for you to use. Pick one that says it helps prevent summer patch disease or they make call it “frogeye” or fusarium patch disease.

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Stinkbugs Come in Different Colors

Q. What is this bug? Have hundreds or them in my yard. Are they harmful to my plants (vegetable and flower). How do I get rid of them? A. This bug is one of the stinkbugs. I was trying to figure out which one because a few types of stinkbugs are predators (good guys) such as soldier bugs but most are not. I think this is a bad guy. Stinkbugs have mouth that is like a hypodermic needle that lies flat against their stomach. They move the mouthpart away from their body and can insert it into fruits, leaves, stems and other soft plant tissue and withdraw plant juices. The good guys insert their hypodermic mouth into soft bodied insects and kill them by taking out their body juices. When they feed on plant parts the plant part gets damaged. In the case of fruits and nuts they can cause early fruit or nut drop. They can also cause dimples to form in fruit like apples and pears. So unless you have a qualified entomologist like our state entomologist Jeff Knight in Carson City to see for sure otherwise watch them and inspect your trees to see if they are feeding there. You can get hold of Jeff Knight through the local Department of Agriculture office. In Las Vegas this office can be reached at 702-486-4690. Jeff will kill me but his email address is [email protected] I would send him some pictures. Real identification can take a very long time. Soap sprays and oils like Neem directed at them will kill them but will not leave much residue for future control. Otherwise you can use pyrethrin sprays or other sprays labeled for fruits and vegetables. They can be big pests if this is a bad one.

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You Don’t Need to Pick Up Grass Clippings if you Manage Your Lawn Correctly

Q. The landscapers for our HOA are using mulching mowers on our grass. The cut grass often remains on top, browns and causes the grass under to brown out also. Should grass be mulched in our desert? The landscape foremen bagged the grass and took it away. Years ago in Las Vegas mulching mowers were nonexistent. Landscape maintenance companies bagged clippings and they were dumped into our landfills. A. Mulching mowers work good as long as not too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied, the mower blades are kept sharp, the mower is not operated at a speed that is too fast, and the mower is a true mulching mower and not a conventional mower modified with mulching blades.             True mulching mowers have a deck designed to provide a longer lift time after the grass blades are cut. A longer lift time allows the leaf blades more time to be cut or mulched properly. This extra time, combined with a sharp blade and a correct mowing speed, results in finely mulched turfgrass clippings.             This time of year fescue grass loves cool weather and grows very rapidly. If too much nitrogen is applied during cool weather, excessive growth results. Weekly mowing with a mulching mower cannot keep up with this rapid growth.             Either the lawn has to be mowed more often or less fertilizer should be applied.             Your landscapers need to cut back on fertilizer applications during cool weather and use about half the rate listed on the bag. Mulched grass clippings return a lot of fertilizer back to the lawn.             They also need to mow slower and not try to rush through a landscape. This allows the mulching blade to cut the blades more often and the mulched clippings will fall between the grass blades and never seen on the surface.             If they don’t balance mowing the their applications of fertilizers then they will need to pick up the clippings if they want to leave a landscape that you can walk through without tracking cut grass into residences.             One of the major reasons for introducing mulching mowers was to reduce the green waste entering our landfills. The educational program responsible for this was the “Don’t Bag It” program originating at Texas A and M University. You can read more about how mulching mowers and fertilizers interact with each other in a fact sheet I wrote years ago while Extension Specialist for the University of Nevada.  See the Fact Sheet here

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