Xtremehorticulture

Controlling Growth of Shrubs More Than Water and Fertilizer

Q. You have always have stated to prune shrubs and trees when they are dormant, but it seems mine do not go dormant in the winter.  They continue to grow even though they get water only once a week.  I halved their fertilizer application but they continue to grow larger than I want them to. Why do they grow when they should be dormant and when should I prune them to slow their growth and spread? A. Shrubs desire to reach their mature size. Keeping them smaller than this will require more maintenance than selecting one that is the size you need. Select shrubs by determining the size you need and finding one that fits that size at maturity.             Dormancy here is not the same as dormancy in Minnesota. Dormancy here, in some cases for some plants, means that they may stop growing as much, not that they stop growing at all. Just depends on the plant and its location.             Where the plant is located in the landscape also dictates its level of dormancy. Very warm microclimates in the yard may mean that some plants never totally shut down during the winter while in colder spots they do. Hot south and west facing walls with little winter wind are the warmest locations.             Cutting back on water and fertilizer will help but they do not act like an “on and off switch” for plants. Think of fertilizer and water more like a “rheostat” where it can increase and decrease growth but not totally shut it down. At some point though, turning down the water and fertilizer will damage the plant. The real solution is to match plant mature size to the site.                 Focus your pruning on older growth and remove it from deep inside the canopy leaving the younger growth still flourishing. Prune in the winter months. Avoid trimming on the edge of the canopy whenever you can. Hide your cuts if at all possible. They should not be obvious. This will help keep them smaller.

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Winds Blew the Flowers Right Off My Peach Tree

Q. For the last two years in North Las Vegas heavy winds have come while my young peach tree was in bloom. Both years I wrapped it as best I could but the blooms were blown off the tree anyway. Do you have any good way to protect the tree during these windy times? You don’t wrap your trees at the farm? A. We don’t wrap our trees and we are exposed to strong, cold winds from the northwest with recorded gusts of 70 mph. My guess is that the wind is channeling through that area which will increase its speed. I would suggest constructing a windbreak to protect that small area by diverting or slowing the wind. This can be made from fencing or evergreen plants. fact sheet on windbreaks             You do not need to stop the wind entirely but you can slow it down with a windbreak. Windbreaks should not be a 100% barrier to wind but allow about 20% of that wind to penetrate through it. Things like chain-link fences with PVC slats or woven materials placed along windward side of the fence will affect wind a distance of 5 to 8 times the height of the barrier. Open publication – Free publishing – More wind damage             Wind will increase its speed if it goes from a large area through a small area such as between homes or into backyards. This can be a problem if this channeled wind enters small areas where fruit trees and vegetable gardens are located.             Be creative. See if you can design a windbreak into your existing landscape that can help modify that part of your yard and make it more enjoyable.

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Desert Orchard Expands to West Texas

One of our Orchard volunteers, Matt Heff, started a small orchard in West Texas, near the panhandle a bit south and west of Odessa. One year later his Orchard in now on its way with 100 fruit trees using two or three of each variety. He writes: Hi Bob! Matt Heff here. Attached our Texas orchard pics 1 year later. Wanted to show you the difference by planting clovers to recharge the Texas alkaline soil just like you and Jon told me to. The orchard was covered in peat moss, Texas compost, manure and tons of clover seeds (different varieties). Over 1,000 worms happily living in west Texas- notice the difference between worms and no worms photo? We broke bud 2 weeks ago. Very early  and trees are very much Alive.

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Job Posting: HEAD FARM MANAGER, MOHAVE COUNTY, Kingman, Arizona, USA

DESCRIPTION:  Head Farm Manager will provide strategic direction and hands-on leadership for a unique desert farming operation. The position requires the ability to manage a diverse, high-quality irrigated vegetable farming operation from start-up through post-harvest. Business expansion to include large and small livestock operation, orchard, vineyard and other high-value crops suitable for the middle desert environment. Applicant must have an appreciation for organic and sustainable food production. The Head Farm Manager will be responsible to coordinate with livestock range manager and corporate office of absentee owner. The ultimate farm operation to include 38,000 acres. QUALIFICATIONS:  ·         5 Years management experience in farm operations in arid or desert environments ·         Minimum Bachelor’s Degree in Ag-related field ·         Farm fiscal and budgetary experience using appropriate computer software ·         Hands-on experience in food production under arid or desert environments ·         Experience in compost operations and recycling, sequential planting and harvest, water efficient irrigation practices, postharvest handling of food products and business management ·         Must be willing to live in northwest Arizona ·         Experience in start-up operations a plus SKILLS: ·         Outstanding start-up skills and self-motivation ·         Extremely well organized and multi-functional ·         Strong business acumen and computer skills ·         Strong Interpersonal skills that further the interests of the organization ·         Strong communication skills, both written and oral. Ability to communicate at all levels ·         Strong business knowledge with the ability to support and achieve the financial objectives of the organization ·         Self-Starter with ability to develop goals and initiatives and deliver on measured targets of performance Resume and cover letter should be emailed to: [email protected] I can help with inquiries. [email protected]

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New Bee Group Forming in Las Vegas

Become A Founding Member of a New Bee Club! Anyone can join! All ages welcome! If you want to learn about our pollinator friends, or want to have a more abundant garden, or you want to become a beekeeper this is the club for you! When: Sat. Feb. 4th, 2012 11am-12noon Where: RISE Resource Center (Housed in the Advent Church) 3460 N. Rancho (Between Gowen & Cheyenne) Las Vegas,NV What to bring: Yourself and a friend, a sense of adventure and a “Bee Friendly” attitude Contact Rita at [email protected]

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Tom Spellman to Speak at Orchard 2 PM Thursday Feb 16 2012

Tom Spellman from Dave Wilson Nursery If you are interested in fruit trees and hearing from true experts on the subject I would invite you to come out to the UNCE Orchard on Thursday afternoon at 2PM on February 16 to hear Tom Spellman from Dave Wilson Nursery. He will tour the orchard and talk about new fruit tree introductions from Zaiger Genetics. There is no fee. This only happens once a year and the first time I have offered this opportunity to the public. Tom is a true expert on citrus as well.

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How Much Asparagus Should I Plant?

Asparagus spear just starting to become overmature for best quality Q. I’m gardening in raised beds that are 4′ x 8′. I’m not sure how much asparagus to plant. My wife and are I the only ones who would eat it and I’m guessing we would harvest 1x per week during the period they are harvestable. How much of my garden would need to be dedicated for that production level? A. If asparagus is planted correctly it should start producing in February and you will stop picking about eight weeks later. When asparagus is in production and when it is warm outside you will picking as frequently as every other day to stay ahead of it. If you don’t, much of it will be unusable. There is no such thing as picking weekly with asparagus once it is in production.             It does freeze well, it makes great soup and they can be grilled nicely. I would say half-dozen crowns should be plenty for you and your wife. My asparagus class will be offered in March at Plant World and through Eventbrite.com.

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Replanting In Same Hole for Fruit Trees Usually Not a Problem if Borers are the Reason

Q. I removed a diseased (clarified by saying the only problem was borers) peach fruit tree.  How soon can I plant another peach tree in the same hole? A. If this is from borers, then you can plant immediately. Not a problem with borers and replanting. The entire lifecycle of the borers in our fruit trees are in the aboveground portion of the trees, not the roots or soil.             There is a problem potentially with something called replant disease but it is minor in this case and should be not a problem for you. Remove as much of the root system as possible before planting.

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Removing White Salt Deposits on Walls With Acid

Q. Our backyard block wall has some white stains on it. These appear where the sprinkler water hits the wall and I want to remove them.  I have read on-line to use things like diluted muriatic acid, but I don’t want to kill the plants my wife has throughout her garden.  How can I clean the stains, and can I treat the walls to protect from more stains forming Salt deposit on slumpstone wall when plants are being irrigated by bubblers. Salt in the water is carried up the wall where it evaporates, leaving behind the salts. The other side of the wall does not have sprinklers hitting it either. A. These are salts remaining from either those sprinklers or water from the soil wicking up the wall. Our soils contain quite a bit of salt as well as our water. Water coming from Lake Mead carries about 1 ton of salts for every 326,000 gallons. It sounds fairly dilute but it is not.              Our soils vary much more in salt and can be removed by leaching. The salt in the water of course is consistent. The combination of the two can mean some pretty high salt levels. Salt dissolves readily in water and when the water evaporates from the wall, it leaves the salt behind. These are probably the salt deposits you’re seeing on the wall. Even drip irrigation can cause problems like this since the water can wick through and into porous surfaces.             You don’t have to use muriatic acid but you can use and acid, even vinegar to help remove it. The major concern with plants is having the acid fall on foliage. This will damage the plant. Of course the best way to prevent it is to not use overhead irrigation.             In the case of drip irrigation, put the emitters on the opposite side of the plant from the wall, not next to the wall. Perhaps there is a treatment to the wall that could prevent this from happening. I don’t know of any.

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Special Deal on Fruit Trees on My Twitter Causes Frustration – For Me!

Q. Your twitter feed mentioned a good deal on peach trees which we are going to now purchase. Which two peach trees to get for a 10 x 10 space? I’d like to keep the harvest staggered so we can enjoy the fruit longer. I also have a five-gallon Bonanza dwarf peach in a whiskey barrel that I started last October. https://twitter.com/ or go to my home page and follow my Twitter there. Stark Saturn peach with some bird damage. For some reason birds LOVE this particular fruit. Problem: SO DO WE! A. This was a special deal on ten fruit trees for $199 plus $35 shipping on Groworganic.com. On the peaches that they had available, I would recommend that you look at Red Haven (yellow acidic), Babcock (white subacid) or Stark’s Saturn (donut, white, subacid, but birds like it alot). For an earlier peach, mid July or so, and Indian Free (late august, beautiful flesh turning nearly blood red and subacid) or O’Henry (early august, yellow, favorite at roadside stands and farmers markets) for a later peach.             It is hard to recommend just one or two peaches since they can be so different from each other. There is not really a June peach in the group that I know well enough to recommend.

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