Xtremehorticulture

Western Redbud Better Choice but Harder to Find

Q. I can never find Cercis occidentalis, Western Redbud, at local nurseries. Any idea where I can locate it? Western Redbud after flowering A. Thanks for giving me the Latin name for this tree instead of just Western Redbud because that eliminates all confusion about which tree you might mean. If you like a reddish pink splash of spring color in about March on a small tree, you will like this tree when it flowers. The Redbud most people buy is an Eastern Redbud but it is not as suitable for our climate and soils as its Western cousin or even the Mexican Redbud. Mexican Redbud             Eastern Redbud is the tree that people call “Redbud” from the East Coast to the West Coast. Western Redbud is unique. It has never gained the same popularity. This is the same tree that polkadots the Grand Canyon with rosy plum color every spring. Eastern Redbud has some soil issues in the West and not as adaptable as Western Redbud             But Western Redbud has significant advantages over the Eastern Redbud in our climate and soils. First off, Western Redbud handles the chemistry of our soils much better than Eastern Redbud. That’s because it evolved here. It is native to southern Nevada and specifically the Charleston Mountain Range of Southern Nevada. It is small, seldom reaching heights over 20 feet tall, the perfect size for a single-story home and smaller patio-sized landscapes.             However, it will not tolerate having “wet feet”. In other words, don’t water it too often. Give it a lot of water when you do water it and then hold off and let the soil dry before you water it again. It is native to the foothills of dry Southwestern areas including Utah, Arizona and California. It’s one of our desert natives.             I also think the Western Redbud is a prettier tree when it’s flowering than the plain old Redbud.             Try our State Forest Nursery located in the north part of the Las Vegas Valley. They specialize in local native plants. 702-486-5411.

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When to Fertilize Lawns

Q. When is it time to start fertilizing lawns again? Lawns can be beautiful but they need regular feeding. The light green color of this lawn is an indicator it needs an application of nitrogen fertilizer. That nitrogen fertilizer will turn that light green lawn into a dark green lawn in a matter of a couple days. A. It depends on whether the lawn is fescue, only Bermudagrass or Bermudagrass overseeded in Fall to maintain green winter color. Fescue lawns and overseeded Bermudagrass lawns are fertilized the same during winter months. Ammonium sulfate fertilizer contains only nitrogen that the plants need when their color is not dark enough. The sulfur in the sulfate is also important for plants but in the case of light green color, all that’s lacking is nitrogen.3 to 5 pounds of this fertilizer spread evenly over 1000 ft.² of lawn and watered in will turn the color a deep green instead of light green.             Fescue and overseeded Bermudagrass should have been fertilized last Thanksgiving to maintain dark green color through winter. If this fertilizer application was missed and temperatures get cold, the lawn can turn brown when it gets very cold or just light green if it does not.             The next fertilizer application to fescue lawns would be when air temperatures enter the 60s. Fertilize Bermudagrass that was not overseeded when temperatures enter the 80s. Once or twice a year add a better quality fertilizer to the lawn like this one. It has a little bit of phosphorus, the middle number. Lawns don’t need a lot of phosphorus because we don’t grow them for their flowers and fruit. I would like to see the potassium, the last number, higher than this but this is a good lawn fertilizer.             Established lawns require fertilizers containing high nitrogen, and occasionally an application of iron, for dark green color. However, they will perform best if this fertilizer contains also low levels of phosphorus and moderate to high levels of potassium.             For this reason, fertilizers similar to 21-7-14 or 10-5-10 are frequently recommended for lawns. Some people use only high nitrogen fertilizer such as 21-0-0 and omit phosphorus and potassium.             I think this is a mistake and a good lawn fertilizer should be applied at least once during the growing season. Instead, experiment and try fertilizing with only half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the bag. This is all that is usually needed if you are not bagging lawn clippings but mulching them back into the lawn using the mower.

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Digging Holes to Plant Fruit Trees

Q. How big do you dig your holes for fruit trees? This was a hole dug for a bare root fruit tree about 1 inch in diameter. The whole is about 3 feet wide and not much deeper than needed for the roots. The soil taken from the whole was mixed about 50-50 with compost and used for planting around the tree roots. Water was added to the hole at the same time the soil was put around the roots. The trees were staked to prevent the roots from moving. A. I generally like to dig holes for fruit trees in five or 15 gallon containers about 3 feet wide and just deep enough for the root ball from the container. But the size of the hole depends on the condition of the soil for planting.             If the soil is a very poor soil, I make the hole wider but not any deeper unless the soil does not drain water in several hours after filling it. These situations are rare. I don’t like deep holes for plants because of soil settling issues and causing plant problems later. Finished planting fruit trees at the Ahern Orchard in Las Vegas. Berms or doughnuts were created around each of the trees so they could be watered as soon as they were planted. They were watered three or four times immediately after planting to remove air pockets and sell the soil around the roots.             Our desert soils can be unusually hard but in some parts of the Las Vegas Valley there are “caliche layers” that are as hard as cement and require a jackhammer to break through them. If you or your neighbors have a pool and this layer was not found when it was put in, then you don’t have a caliche problem.             The soil removed from the hole should be mixed with compost before planting. Use a mixture one part compost to one part soil. Another option is to use an “imported” soil mix for planting.             If the compost used in the soil mix is “rich”, no fertilizer is needed for the first year after planting. If the compost is not rich, then add a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus to the soil mixture before planting. Rich compost is usually made with some sort of animal manure.             Plant the tree the same depth as it was in the container making sure that the roots are covered with no more than 1 inch of soil.             As this soil mixture is added to the hole, add water to the hole at the same time you add the soil/compost/fertilizer mixture. This slurry of water and soil mixture removes air pockets and results in a tree held solidly in the soil after planting. Small trees will not require staking if done right.             Surround the plants with a donut and fill this donut with water several times during the next week before you turn it over to the irrigation system.

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Compost and Wood Chips Together Not Needed?

Q. If I use compost around plants and trees, do I still place wood mulch over the compost? Is it needed, or redundant? When the using compost as a fertilizer and soil amendment the compost should be a rich compost full of nutrients. Compost can be a soil amendment, making the soil “fluffier”, but if it’s rich as well then it will add fertilizer or nutrients to the soil. A. Regarding fruit trees, wood chips applied 3 to 4 inches deep on the surface of desert soils is always a good idea. It is also a good idea for many traditional landscape plants, like photinia, mock orange and roses, to have wood mulch or wood chips on top of the soil rather than rock. All these plants are healthiest if rich compost is applied as a fertilizer in the spring. In this demonstration at the University Orchard, compost was added to the soil, the backfill, surrounding the tree roots. The trees were planted the bare root. The woodchip mulch was added to the soil surface in combination with the compost added to the soil. But if compost is added to the top of the soil every year, the woodchip mulch is not necessary for soil improvement. It does a great job however of controlling weeds and conserving moisture around the roots.             Under some circumstances, some plants get by without wood chip mulch or compost applied as fertilizer. Trees and shrubs that are truly “desert adapted”, or suitable for desert landscapes, can get by without wood chip mulch or compost. All they need is a little bit of fertilizer in early spring every year. These are plants such as mesquite, acacia, Texas ranger and palo verde.             In desert landscapes, with the surface of the soil covered with small rocks suitable for walking, your only alternative may be feeding plants with fertilizers applied from bags, a.k.a. mineral fertilizers. These can be applied directly to the surface of the soil near drip emitters and watered in.             Would desert adapted plants be healthier with compost and wood chip mulch? Definitely. But they can tolerate our desert soils without compost and wood chips better than traditional landscape plants.

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Oak Trees in Illinois Should Stay in Illinois

Q. I picked up 10 acorns that were laying on the ground in Illinois. If I were to plant these, would the acorns germinate and produce an oak tree? What are the chances it will survive in the desert climate? A. There are about twenty different kinds of oaks native to Illinois. Two of the more common oaks are northern Red Oak and White Oak. Both of these oaks are not native to the Southwest and you will have trouble growing them here as they get older. A row of live oaks, probably ‘Heritage’ southern Live Oak as a street tree planting in Las Vegas, Nevada.But there is a native oak, gamble Oak, which could be planted and used here. A better choice than importing oaks from northern states.            We have oaks native to the Southwest and you are better off planting those than bringing some from Illinois. But you could have fun with them for a while.             If you found acorns on the ground, then most likely the seed inside the acorn is mature. However, the seed may not be “alive”. Put them in a bowl of water and use the ones that sink and discard the ones that float.            Plant them on the north or east side of a building. Mix compost 50/50 with native soil in an area 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep. Plant the acorns on their side in this amended soil, about 1 inch deep, in mid-November. If the winter is cold enough, the seed inside the acorn will grow when it warms in the spring.            If you missed this November window, put them in a plastic bag with a moist sponge in the refrigerator. Take them out after two months and then plant them in the same way.            Oaks have a very strong taproot. If you move them from this spot, do it when they are very small. They do not move easily to new locations once they establish a taproot. Otherwise, remove extra seedlings and grow the strongest ones the same way you would grow any other landscape tree.

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Wood Chips and Roses

Q. I want to put wood chips around my roses to keep the weeds from returning. Is this a good mulch for the roses? Or might it attract ants or insects I don’t want?  I have not noticed wood mulch at any other homes nearby. Roses love three things when growing in Mohave Desert soils; compost applied to the soil surface, woodchip mulch applied on top of it and exposure to lots of sunlight but avoiding the heat and direct sunlight of the late afternoon. A. Roses, and nearly all plants in the Rose family such as most of our fruit trees, thrive in our desert soils when woodchips are used around them. One of their biggest benefits, besides weed control, is soil improvement. And our desert soils need massive amounts of help in this area. When growing roses in the desert give them plenty of room so that they have air circulation between the plants and through them. This helps to prevent diseases like powdery mildew.             Mulch is applied to the soil surface around plants to assist in controlling weeds, improvement of the soil, reduce the frequency of watering, keep the roots cooler and to improve good “animal life” in the soil. The best mulch is made from shredding and chipping local landscape trees.             The greater diversity in types of trees used to make woodchips, the better the woodchips are for the soil and plants. Personally, I don’t like wood chips made from palms and trees with large thorns like many mesquite trees.             Mulch is made from many sources. Anything applied to the surface of the soil could be referred to as mulch. This includes rock, gravel, sand, plastic, newspaper, old carpet but the best mulch for soil improvement comes from a wide variety of woodchips.             Weeds are suppressed with a 3 to 4-inch layer of woodchips but a few tough weeds will poke through such as Bermudagrass, palm seedlings, nutgrass and well established perennial weeds.

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Flowers Produced Late on Pomegranate

Q. I have pomegranates a few years old. Every year they don’t produce flowers until late in the season when everyone is harvesting fruit. I am considering every option including removal of the plants. Pomegranate flowers are beautiful in their own right. But some varieties of pomegranate are more “precocious” than others meaning they will produce fruit when they are younger. Expect pomegranate to produce fruit anywhere from their first year in the ground to their third or fourth. Pruning them inappropriately or having some low winter temperature damage can delay the production of fruit. A. Pomegranates produce flowers on new growth in late spring when many other fruit trees have already flowered. Pomegranates are slow starters in the spring but once they start flowering they continue to flower through most of the summer and year after year. The largest fruit, percentage-wise, usually comes from new growth originating on larger diameter, older wood.             The balance between root and top growth affects flowering. The tree adjusts growth above ground to match growth and the size of its roots below ground. This “root to shoot ratio” affects flowering and fruiting. Pomegranates on display at the local open air market in Northern Tajikistan. Like the kiwi and pineapple, they were imported from warmer climates where the plant can survive and produce fruit the next year. Notice only the largest and best looking pomegranates are on display.             If the top of the plant is cut back severely or damaged and the roots stay the same size, the top part of the plant grows rapidly and won’t produce flowers until the growth above ground again matches growth below ground. This ideal “root to shoot ratio” varies among plants, between species of plants, and even among varieties. Many varieties of pomegranate are well-known for producing flowers and fruit very close to each other on new growth. I seldom see any advantage in fruit size by thinning the fruit unless they are growing directly across from each other. If the fruit is separated by 1/2 inch or more I will not thin the fruit.             I believe you are seeing a flush of rapid growth in the spring either because of loss of growth above ground. The top produces a lot of new growth at the expense of flowering. Flowering begins when that ideal “root to shoot ratio” is achieved again.             If you are pruning this pomegranate, do not prune it severely. If you are losing the size of the top because of freezing damage or mechanical injury, try to protect it. If this tree can maintain its root to shoot ratio from one year to the next, this problem will stop. Pomegranate growing and producing no flowers. If top growth has been lost from freezing or pruning, the roots may be large enough to push new top growth at the expense of flowering. Also, fertilizing these plans with lots of nitrogen early in the spring can cause excessive growth with very little flower production             There is a difference in tolerance to freezing temperatures among varieties pomegranate. Some are more cold hardy than others. If winter cold damage occurs, it is possible your pomegranate is a different variety from your neighbors. The pomegranate variety ‘Wonderful’ has been a solid performer in our climate.             Some pomegranates are “precocious” meaning they flower and produce fruit at a young age but all of them should be flowering by the second or third year after planting. Some flower the first year after planting. Some flower possibly as late as the third year after planting.             If you can’t solve this problem through careful pruning, replace it with a fruit tree more cold hardy or suffers less from cold winter temperature damage.

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Cane Prune Thompson Seedless Grapes

Q. Two years ago I planted Thompson Seedless grapes. The first two years there were no grapes and I did expect any fruit. This year there are leaves and no fruit. They were pruned the same way as my Red seedless grapes which were very prolific. Is there something special that I must do to make the vine produce? When pruning the past years growth on grape, canes (long spurs) are sometimes left instead a very short spurs because the majority of fruiting may not occur on the first eight buds on these varieties. A. If the vine is healthy, it is all in the pruning. Thompson seedless may need to be cane pruned, not spur pruned like many other grapes. When you cut it back, leave about 8-ten inches of last year’s growth and don’t prune it back so hard. Canes are nothing more than long spurs that have at least 10 buds. When pruning spurs, only one bud, possibly two, are left behind.             Thompson Seedless, Black Monukka and Crimson Seedless should be cane pruned.

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Difference Between Dwarf and Miniature Fruit Trees

Q. When shopping for fruit trees, I noticed both dwarf and miniature trees available which confused me. What is the difference between a dwarf and a miniature variety? Bonanza peach is considered a miniature or genetic dwarf peach. Commercial orchard is thought that miniature peaches were going to revolutionize commercial peach growing. Unfortunately, the fruit is seldom is good as the fruit produced by traditional peach trees. A. The difference between the two is a difference in genetics (miniature) versus how the tree was propagated or grafted (dwarf). Miniature fruit trees are regarded as genetically different or independent from other varieties.             The terms “miniature” and “dwarf” are sometimes used interchangeably in the nursery trade for marketing purposes. This causes a lot of confusion for the consumer. But they are different from each other.             Miniature fruit trees (sometimes called genetic dwarf in the nursery trade) are not manipulated to be smaller. Their “smallness” is in their genetics. They were “born” that way. Miniature fruit trees do not have to be grafted to make them smaller but sometimes they are grafted for other reasons. Examples of genetic dwarf apple trees are the varieties ‘Apple Babe’ and ‘Garden Delicious’. Genetic dwarf peaches include Bonanza and El Dorado. Grafted fruit trees with a rootstock (bottom) and scion (top) that produces the fruit. Dwarf and semi drawer for fruit trees are usually grafted and may be considered “dwarf” rather than miniature.             Dwarf fruit trees are made “dwarf” by attaching them to roots that cause the tree to become smaller. Dwarf fruit trees MUST be grafted to another tree so that they become smaller. Dwarf fruit trees are small because they are forced to be small through graftage. Grafted peach tree with a graft union, sometimes called a “dogleg”.             By grafting apple trees to another tree that doesn’t get as large, the apple tree will never grow large. It stays small; a “dwarfed form” of the same tree.             Fruit from dwarf fruit trees have the same taste and size as the normal-sized tree. But the tree itself remains smaller; a dwarf version of the same tree. There are dwarf forms of Red Delicious, Fuji, Granny Smith, Gala and all other apple varieties. These are all grafted to a dwarfing rootstock.

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Baking Potting Soil to Rid Fungus Gnats

Q. I find it impossible to purchase a bag of potting or garden soil that does not contain gnats. This has been a problem with different brands, from local nurseries and home stores. How does one avoid this problem? I don’t care how expensive it is, nearly every potting soil has problems with fungus gnats.When they are in large numbers and houseplant soil they can damage young tender roots of growing plants. A. Fungus gnats (small flies coming from potting soil) are a very common contaminant in potting soils because many are not heat treated to kill them. Raw components are simply mixed together and not composted when it is finished. You will find this problem in nearly all bags of potting soils from expensive mixes to less expensive mixes.             The best way is to raise the temperature of the potting soil to at least 140F for 30 minutes and kill them. Put the potting soil in a clear plastic back, moisten it slightly if it is dry, and let it “cook” in the sun for a few days near a south facing wall in full sun. Turn it over and try to bake both sides as thoroughly as possible.              Another method is to put the potting soil in the oven and set the temperatures as low as possible, making sure it hits at least 140 thoroughly for 30 minutes. You don’t want the temperature much above 180F because it can harm the organic content of the soil. If you keep the temperature of the soil below 200° F, there will be very little smell associated with baking it.

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