Xtremehorticulture

Low Water Use Plants Need Water in the Desert

Q. Over a year ago our city planned a new extension to a community Park and put in a dirt trail surrounded by “native plants”. They dug wells and put in an assortment of plants and trees with no water source. The first month they used a fire hose from the hydrant to water the plants. Since then, nothing. I counted over 185 dead plants this morning. My question to you is there certain plants for that zone or location that will be able to survive without any water? Cleveland sage is best planted on the east and north sides of a building. It comes from the Baja and coastal California where it grows best in a Mediterranean climate.  Water to get it established and then not more often than about every two or three weeks. A. Not really, no. Even cacti occasionally need water to get established and grow after planting. Cold hardy desert plants are best planted in the fall; winter tender plants in the spring. In very dry summers, desert plants will need supplemental water once a month or more during the summer to look good and survive. Cities and homeowners are not Mother Nature. Even so-called desert plants need water occasionally (and usually some soil improvement) periodically/regularly/deeply to look their best. Homeowners won’t tolerate plants that look bad. Opuntia, or bunny ears cactus, are native to all over the desert southwest including the Mojave desert. To get growth water them about every three weeks in the summer.             For each plant that makes it in the desert after a rain, thousands of plants don’t. The advantage of desert plants is their ability to survive periods of time without water. To think we can guess where plants will survive after planting is pure arrogance. Desert plants respond to water. They respond best when the water is applied to the same spot. They respond by growing. Texas sage or ranger (the barometer plant) hates, hates, hates to be trimmed by a hedge shears unless its growing as a hedge. This is what happens. Water it about once every two or three weeks or when the leaves start to drop.             Some, like Texas ranger (the barometer plant of the Chihuahuan desert) produce flowers on new growth after a rain. As these desert plants get drier, they first drop their leaves (if they have any). Even cacti will put on some new growth after a rain and may even flower!

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Changing from Lawn to Desert Landscape

Q. After 6 years of trying to have a beautiful lawn in Las Vegas, I finally give up. The water company has offered me $3/foot to convert to water smart landscaping. What should I do? Do I add more rocks and plants? Artificial turf? What trees should I use, if any? A. If you do nothing else after removing the lawn, plant some trees or large shrubs that shade to the West and South exterior walls and windows of your home. This will help reduce air conditioning costs during the summer. These plants should be deciduous, in other words drop their leaves for the winter. Shade South and West Walls             Select trees that grow to about the same height as your home. Avoid trees that grow huge. They use more water and don’t really provide any extra savings in air-conditioning costs. A two-story house can handle bigger trees so in your case these should be deciduous trees so they drop their leaves in the winter and allows sunlight to warm the house. I will get back to you with some recommendations on some plants. Sometimes just a vine on a trellis is enough to shade a wall or entrance from the hot sun. Choose Desert Trees I would steer you towards trees that are adapted to desert environments, in other words, “desert trees”.Regardless of the trees you select, plant them a distance from your home no closer than half of their mature height. Plant them no closer together than this either. Dig the holes for the trees at least 3 times the width of their container and no deeper. Smaller trees establish more quickly and grow more rapidly in the beginning than larger trees. Irrigate the soil around plant roots no closer than 3 foot away from the foundation of the home. Many desert trees have excellent form and good looks like this Mesquite in this desert landscape. Fake Grass Has Pluses and Minuses             Personally, I don’t care for artificial grass unless it’s used for a specific purpose other than just covering the ground. It gets terribly hot during the summer if it’s in the sun and requires upkeep. If you go in that direction, start asking some questions because it is not maintenance-free. I wouldn’t use artificial turf unless you have a reason to put it in. Aesthetics, or just looking at it, is not a good reason to install it. It’s in the sunlight it gets exceedingly hot during the months of about April through September. It starts cooling down sometime in mid-to-late October for the fall months. If the air temperature is about 105° F, and the sun is shining directly on it, the surface temperature of your artificial grass will be about 165° F. I know because I’ve measured it. Some artificial lawns look very realistic but they will be also more expensive. Suggestions Start appreciating open spaces. That’s what concerns water deserts is open areas. Don’t fill the entire landscape area with plants. Learn to appreciate what is called “negative space”. Shade the walls and windows of your home on the south and west sides. With a two-story home this requires trees 25 to 40 feet tall. Don’t plant anything closer to the house than 3 feet from it. Apply the irrigation on the side of the plants away from the house or any cement surface such as patios, driveways, sidewalks, etc. Think of your landscape plants in multiple layers; the tall ones, the medium-sized once, small ones and groundcovers and vines. Odd numbers of plants are usually more appealing to the eye than even numbers up to about 7 plants. Above that number, the eye doesn’t seem to notice the difference. Repeat plants through your landscape to provide some continuity and rhythm. There is no need for every plant to be different from each other. Repetition or repeating plants is a good thing and landscape design.

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Arizona Rosewood Is True Desert Native and Does Not Require Frequent Watering

Q. We have an Arizona Rosewood tree in our back yard. It is about 8 years old, is a double trunk tree with 4 inch circumferences on each trunk.  It stands about 12 feet tall and is about 12 to 15 feet across. One water line presently waters it 3 times a day for a total of 30 minutes and is about 15 inches from the trunks. It has been fertilized with Miracle Grow tree and shrub fertilizer and has been treated for possible infestation of insects or grubs.       We have noticed that some of the leaves have been turning brown and falling from the tree.       Can you give some info on how many water lines it should have, what their locations should be and about how much water the tree should receive or what other problems we may be able to look for?  A. This is the wrong irrigation schedule for Arizona Rosewood. This plant originates from the Sonoran Desert so it is a true desert plant. This means that it doesn’t like frequent amounts of water in small amounts as you are giving it.             Normal for it would be watering not very often in the winter but giving it large amounts when you do and the same amount but more often in the summer. Yes, this is a bit vague but the watering schedule you have for it now is for nondesert plants.             With this type of schedule it is possible that it is getting water too often. It is also possible it is not getting enough water when you do water. Hard to say.             The problem now is that this tree is accustomed to frequent watering with small amounts. Its roots have grown to favor this method of watering. At this age, this tree may have some difficulty adjusting to a new watering schedule.             One thing we can conclude is that it is a watering problem; either too often or not enough when you do water. It is definitely not a problem of watering too often AND too much combined. If you have never added drip emitters around this tree it may be time to do so.             I am GUESSING it is not getting enough water when you are watering. Increase the amount of water by adding more drip emitters. This is better than increasing the minutes. If you increase the minutes then EVERYTHING on that cycle will get more water, whether they need it or not and it will waste water.             It is less likely, but possible, that the roots of the tree are getting water too often. This can cause the roots to rot particularly for many desert plants.             If I were there I would go out to Home Depot or Lowes and get an inexpensive moisture meter for houseplants. Bring it home and push it into the soil in several locations around the tree. Use this for deciding if the plant is getting enough water or not.  Inexpensive houseplant moisture meter that you can use outside as well to see if the soil is moist or dry before watering. I posted this information sheet from Andrea Meckley previously.

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What Causes Brown Leaves on Yucca?

Q. Why are the tips of my yucca leaves turning brown?  Brown leaf tips on yucca. Can be from soil or irrigation problems. A. This is pretty common on yucca in our climate and soils unless they are grown in filtered sunlight and the soil has been prepared well before planting. They always tend to have brown tips. In the case of your plant, judging from your picture, it does seem excessive. When we see brown tips on the foliage of desert plants it usually means a watering problem, a soil salt problem or lack of drainage. This particular yucca is native to the Chihuahuan desert so infrequent irrigation is critical to its health. Most of the soils in the Chihuahuan desert are better than our landscape soils created by the builders of our homes. Regarding your irrigations, compare your watering with how these plants might be watered in their natural habitat. This is a guideline for how you should water. They won’t need watering that often so if you are watering more frequently than every two or three weeks in midsummer, I would suggest this is too often. If this plant is on the same irrigation circuit as other landscape plants, and these other plants are not a desert plants, then I would suggest the plant is being watered too often. The volume of water you give the plant is not as critical as the frequency it receives water. In other words, you can give it a large volume of water and not hurt the plant as long as you wait long enough before the next irrigation. Giving large volumes of water may waste water but it seldom keeps the soil too moist for the plant between irrigations. If this plant is watered too often, remove it from that irrigation circuit and water it by hand every few weeks. It will like a couple of deep winter irrigations, a spring irrigation, a couple of midsummer irrigations and a fall irrigation and that’s about it. If the applied water is close to the trunk, then the trunk could be rotting. Keep frequent irrigations away from the trunk. However, it is okay to water in a large basin beneath the plant if it is done infrequently. If there are other plants around it, it is probably getting enough water from its neighbors. But I would still give it an occasional drink to be on the safe side.

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Creosote Bush for Desert LandscapesIn the Mojave Desert

Don’t overwater this plant! And it doesn’t require much in the way of fertilizers.Like any desert plant, they perform better if there is some organic matter added to the soil at the time of planting. In our Mojave desert soils there is almost 0% organic matter so a little bit will help get them established. An old stand of creosote in the background and creosote which have been cut off with a road grader and re-grew from the base.

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Desert plants: Jojoba

JOJOBA Andrea Meckley, Certified Horticulturist [email protected] Description:  Evergreen shrub Mature size: 6 feet tall x 6 feet wide Water use:  low Exposure:  all day sun Origin: Sonoran Desert Uses:  Hedge, screen, or foundation plant Hardy:  to 15 degrees F Despite its scientific name Simmondsia chinensis, jojoba does not originate in China.  The botanist Johann Link originally named the species Buxus chinensis after misreading a collection label “Calif” as “China”.  This hardy shrub has leathery grey-green egg shaped leaves and the female plant produces edible nut-like fruit.  Jojoba provides year-round food for many animals, including deer, javelina, bighorn sheep, and livestock. The nuts are eaten by squirrels, rabbits, other rodents, and larger birds. Only Bailey’s Pocket Mouse, however, is known to be able to digest the wax found inside the jojoba nut.  The name “jojoba” originated from the O’odham people from the Sonoran Desert who treated burns with an antioxidant salve made from a paste of the jojoba nut.   In large quantities, the seed meal is toxic to many mammals, and the indigestible wax acts as a laxative in humans. Jojoba nuts contain more than 40 percent “oil,” which is actually a liquid wax. The wax is highly resistant to oxidation and is stable at high temperatures. These properties make it a very high quality lubricant, equal to sperm whale oil. Only sperm whale or jojoba oil is acceptable for some industrial applications. The wax is also used in cosmetics. For these reasons and because sperm whales are endangered, jojoba is being developed as a commercial crop in several countries.

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Purple Lantana Dying Out

 yellow or gold lantana Q. Am having trouble with purple Lantana. They are dying out. The gold Lantana is still doing well. Am watering 3 days a week at 20 minutes and 4 days a week at 7 minutes. I have noticed that my neighbors are having the same type of trouble. Hope you have a solution. A. The lantanas in general flower on new wood so as they get older the flowers will get further and further from the center of the plant provided it does not freeze back. This tends to make the center kind of bare and most of the foliage and flowers at the ends. Trailing or purple lantana             If it freezes back and does not die out due to very low temperatures then the plant will stay more compact and will need to be trimmed back to a few inches each early spring. But this plant, if it is in a place where it stays warm and does not freeze back, will tend to get leggy and not have much foliage on the inside.             So make sure you cut it back to keep renewing new growth close to the center of the plant. You can do that now to some degree. Cut back one third of the stems to a couple inches in length. Stagger the cuts so that they are random on older wood through the canopy             It will require watering fairly often if the soil drains of water easily. Fertilize lightly in the spring and fall. To maintain bushiness irrigate frequently like any normal shrub. If you decide at some time to replace it make sure you add compost to the soil at the time of planting.

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Cleveland Sage a Great Choice for Beauty and Fragrance

Q. I am trying to identify this bush/plant. It is in a desert landscape. Poor picture (sorry) but the blooms are blue/purple and seem to grow out of the center of the bloom below. Each bloom is shaped like a pinwheel with small flowers around the edge. Each stem/stalk supports 4 or 5 of the pinwheels, each spaced evenly up the stem. Very interesting and pretty. Cleveland sage picture submitted by reader A. The picture is a bit fuzzy which doesn’t help with my old eyes but I think what you have is Salvia clevelandii or Cleveland Sage, or Blue Sage. It gets its name from being named in the Cleveland National Forest which is east and north of San Diego.             I really love the plant for its visual beauty but one extra is the wonderful fragrance of the foliage. Even on warm days with just the lightest of zephyrs the fragrance wafts all around. Terry Mikel Here is another shot of Cleveland sage

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