Xtremehorticulture

My Pomegranate Has Those Little Red Bugs

Q. I have a pomegranate tree planted by birds about 20 years ago. I never had bug problems on this tree before 2011. In 2012 it produced about 150 pounds of pomegranates. In 2013 the tree did not produce any fruit at all. This year the tree is loaded again but it is infested with those little red bugs that I think will turn into those ugly creatures you have been talking about. We don’t want to use poisons. Have there been any new developments for control? A. This particular bug, the leaf footed plant bug, is a growing problem for Las Vegas gardeners. The only way you will have a good crop of pomegranates, and most likely pistachios, is to spray. Leaffooted plant bug on pomegranate             The two choices you have are to spray with a conventional insecticide, which you call a poison, or spray with some sort of “organic” spray which I guess you might call non-poisonous.             Conventional insecticides leave a longer residual on the plant so you do not have to spray as often. Most organic sprays must be repeated more often because they don’t have much of a residual or none at all.             One of the most effective “organic” sprays is soap. You can make your own soap sprays but for most people I would highly recommend buying insecticidal soap already made. The soap used to make insecticidal soaps is less damaging to plants than grabbing scented Ivory liquid and using that. Safers insecticidal soap             Insecticidal soaps, to be effective, must be sprayed directly on the insect. They have no residual. When these bugs die from the soap, new ones will come in and invade their territory so you have to re-spray frequently.             The most effective time to spray soaps is toward dusk when bugs have settled in for the night. Soap sprays are not selective. They will kill any insect that comes in direct contact with your spray, good or bad.             Organic sprays containing pyrethrum, an insecticide derived from either Dalmatian or Persian chrysanthemums, will probably work well. However, pyrethrum is a poison. Use it carefully and wear protective clothing. Pyrethrum farmer in Kenya             Synthetic or manufactured sprays that chemically resemble pyrethrum, which you would categorize as a poison, are probably going to be effective as well. Scientists “tweaked” the chemistry of pyrethrum to give it more “knockdown power” and last a little longer. These are called synthetic pyrethroids.             Chemical names in the ingredients will say things like “Permethrin” or “pyrethroid”. These chemicals emulate natural pyrethrins but are manufactured and as such are not “organic”. If you decide to go conventional, then look for these names in the ingredients. Make sure the label permits you to apply it to fruit trees.

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Tomatoes With Black Bottoms Now Being Seen

Those of you who were lucky enough to get your tomatoes planted the first part of March have already tasted your home grown tomatoes. Quite a few of you have discovered tomatoes with black bottoms. What do you do?             This problem, called blossom end rot, is seen every year here on tomatoes and sometimes peppers and eggplant. No one really knows the exact cause for this physiological “disease” but scientists agree it probably comes from mineral imbalances inside the fruit. The mineral usually associated with blossom end rot is a lack of calcium. Blossom end rot of tomato             On the East coast, in acidic soils, the recommendation is to “lime” the soils or add calcium carbonate to the soil so the plant does not “run out” of calcium. But calcium sprays applied to tomatoes do not cure the problem. Blossom end rot of pepper, frequently confused with sunscald             This is odd because calcium sprays such as calcium chloride applied to the fruit of apple and pear trees cure their calcium deficiencies, namely “bitter pit” and “corky spot”, and work in southern Nevada. Corky spot of Keiffer pear, corrected with calcium sprays applied to the fruit             Until scientists understand blossom end rot better, we are stuck with the same old recommendations that I am going to repeat here and can be found elsewhere.             Don’t waste your money on calcium sprays. They don’t work. Focus your energy on mulching vegetable beds to prevent water stress in the plants. Monitor your irrigations so that plants do not become water stressed.

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