Xtremehorticulture

New Texas Ranger Not Looking Good After Daily Watering

Q. I planted a Texas Ranger shrub three weeks ago in some sandy and rocky soil. I have been watering it with about two gallons daily. I added one inch-deep bark mulch in a 1 foot circle around the plant. Now I am finding yellow, brittle leaves on the lower stems and curling leaves on top. Am I overwatering? A. Yes, it is definitely watered too often. Overwatering can be in two forms; giving too much water OR giving water too often or both at the same time. “Giving too much water” relates to the number of gallons you give a plant each time you water. “Watering too often” relates to how many times in a week you give water to a plant. Texas ranger hedge sheared and consequently the flowers removed             It is far more damaging if plants are watered too often rather than given too much in a single watering. Rangers do fine without wood mulch. They will benefit from it but they don’t really need it like other plants, such as roses and many fruit trees in the rose family, do.             Now, a second problem. If wood mulch is in contact with young tender stems of plants, it can contribute to a disease called collar rot. Collar rot basically rots the trunk of the plant in contact with continuously wet mulch just above the soil surface. Collar rot of bean but the principles are the same.             A third problem is just plain old root rot. This happens below ground and not at the soil surface. Root rot happens because the roots cannot “breathe” due to a lack of oxygen. The open spaces in the soil are continuously filled with water. Basically the roots “drown”.             Bottom line; pull the mulch away from the trunk about a foot or eliminate it. Make sure the plant is planted at the correct depth in the soil. Make a basin around the plant about 2 feet in diameter and fill this basin with water from a hose or bucket.             Set your drip emitters for twice a week during the summer. On the same days your drip emitters come on, fill the basin with water. This helps settle the soil around the root system.             When you see new growth, eliminate the watering in the basin. Use only the drip emitters from that point forward. Use enough emitters to deliver 1 to 2 gallons each time you water. Next year, add one more emitter but leave the number of minutes unchanged.             Fertilize once in January. Do not use a hedge shears to prune unless you intend it to be a hedge. If the plant is intended to stand alone, use selective pruning and remove one or two of the largest stems near the base of the plant every two to three years. A. Yes, it is definitely watered too much. Overwatering can be in two forms; given too much water OR giving water too often. It is far more damaging to plants to water them too often. Rangers do fine without wood mulch. They will benefit from it but don’t really need it. If wood mulch is in contact with young tender trunks or stems of plants, it can contribute to a disease called collar rot. This disease is in the soil and can spread into healthy tissue if the plant is stressed. The other concern is just plain old root rot. This happens because the roots cannot “breathe” due to a lack of oxygen to the roots. Basically the roots “drown”. Plant parts without light need oxygen. Plant parts that are green and exposed to light need carbon dioxide AND oxygen. Keeping the soil moist and having the wood mulch in contact with the trunk is a double whammy on this plant. If the soil is amended at the time of planting (University of Arizona discourages that) then you should water only about twice a week right now. We are in nearly the same climate zone. Bottom line….i hope it is not too late but pull the mulch away from the trunk about a foot or eliminate it. Make sure the plant is planted at the correct depth in the soil. Make a basin around the plant for the first few weeks and, in addition to your drip irrigation, water with a hose twice a week in the basin two feet in diameter surrounding the plant. This helps eliminate air pockets and settles the soil around plant roots. Actually you should be adding water to the planting hole when you are backfilling the hole with amended soil so the soil and water (mud) can flow around the plant roots. When you do this you will see air bubbles coming from the soil as the excess air is eliminated from the planting hole and around the roots. When finished planting, the plant should be solidly established in the hole. When you move the plant, it should not wiggle around in the soil. When you see new growth in a couple of weeks, eliminate the watering from the hose and go to emitters. Use enough emitters to give you 1-2  gallons each time you water. Next year, add another emitter. Fertilize once in January. Do not use a hedge shears to prune it but let it grow with little pruning.

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Tomatoes With Black Bottoms Now Being Seen

Those of you who were lucky enough to get your tomatoes planted the first part of March have already tasted your home grown tomatoes. Quite a few of you have discovered tomatoes with black bottoms. What do you do?             This problem, called blossom end rot, is seen every year here on tomatoes and sometimes peppers and eggplant. No one really knows the exact cause for this physiological “disease” but scientists agree it probably comes from mineral imbalances inside the fruit. The mineral usually associated with blossom end rot is a lack of calcium. Blossom end rot of tomato             On the East coast, in acidic soils, the recommendation is to “lime” the soils or add calcium carbonate to the soil so the plant does not “run out” of calcium. But calcium sprays applied to tomatoes do not cure the problem. Blossom end rot of pepper, frequently confused with sunscald             This is odd because calcium sprays such as calcium chloride applied to the fruit of apple and pear trees cure their calcium deficiencies, namely “bitter pit” and “corky spot”, and work in southern Nevada. Corky spot of Keiffer pear, corrected with calcium sprays applied to the fruit             Until scientists understand blossom end rot better, we are stuck with the same old recommendations that I am going to repeat here and can be found elsewhere.             Don’t waste your money on calcium sprays. They don’t work. Focus your energy on mulching vegetable beds to prevent water stress in the plants. Monitor your irrigations so that plants do not become water stressed.

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Ocotillo Watering Should be Infrequent in Desert Landscapes

Q. I have trouble with my Ocotillo.  They get beautiful green leaves that last about two to three weeks and then turn brown and fall off.  They are on my watering system.  Are they getting too much water? It is common for ocotillo to lose its leaves in the winter months like this one. But it should put on some new growth and new leaves in the spring. A. Ocotillo is a desert plant so it has special characteristics that allow it to survive when water is not available.             The first response ocotillo displays to a lack of water is to drop its leaves. Another reason it may drop its leaves is from the soil around its roots staying too wet. That makes diagnosis of leaf drop difficult. Ocotillo does not require alot of care in Las Vegas like Cathy and Bill’s ocotillo. Water and fertilize infrequently.             If ocotillo is put on a “normal” irrigation schedule used for most home landscape plants, it would most likely receive water too often. It would, ideally, be irrigated with agave and yucca in a landscape, not photinia and star jasmine for instance.             It can tolerate frequent watering ONLY if water drains from the soil quickly. If water in the soil drains easily then it might be able to handle the same irrigation frequency as photinia and star jasmine even though it would not be ideal for it.             It can probably handle an irrigation frequency of about once every two to three weeks in the summer but not more often than once a week.             In winter changed it to once every 4 to 6 weeks. When it with enough water to wet the soil at its base to a depth of about 18 inches. Three or four emitters spaced about 18 inches from an established plant would be adequate in most soils.             If you choose to water with a hose, filling a basin around the plant would make it easier to water. Watch for leaf discoloration or leaf drop to signal a time to rewater. Eventually this will help you anticipate a watering schedule for the plant.

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Palm Died and Dont Know Why

Q. We had 3 healthy palms in our yard for many years. Just recently, we had to have one removed, but were not able to determine why it died. A. After you sent me these pictures of the tops of your palms in the base as I suggested, I don’t see a problem. They look healthy. Just some notes, I see some common bermudagrass growing at the base where the irrigation is occurring. Let me just make some general comments. Palms are typically an oasis plant which means they like to have a lot of water nearby but don’t do well if the roots are constantly wet. They like to be able to tap into an available water supply.  Palms use a lot of water considering how skinny they are and our perception that they are a desert plant. That’s why I mentioned they are really an oasis plant rather than a desert plant. Some desert plants will grow with limited rainfall out in the middle of the desert while some others will grow close to a perennial river bed where they get water from flooding and that water then disappears for a long time. We call these riparian species like Mesquite. So a true desert plant will have ways of growing in the desert and surviving during long periods of drought. They have several different mechanisms that they can use to survive. Palms on the other hand don’t have a good mechanism for surviving drought. That’s why we don’t see them growing in the desert where Mesquites grow or out in the middle of the desert with no apparent water supply. When you see palms growing in the desert, here you are almost certain to find a fairly permanent water source nearby. What does this mean to you? It means that when you irrigate palms they should be watered thoroughly and the soil allowed to dry fairly well but not too dry. You will not treat them the same way you would treat mesquites and acacias for instance or even cacti. So make sure that your water supply is giving them an abundance when they are watered, perhaps 15 to 20 gallons, and then don’t water them again until the soil begins drying down. In the summer this might mean irrigations twice a week but in the winter time this could be twice a month. In between these two seasons you will vary the frequency of when you water but not the amount that you water. You will still water with the same gallons each time but you will change how often you apply it based upon the seasons. Let me know if I’ve answered your questions were not. But your palms look healthy.

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