Xtremehorticulture

Avoid Salt Mayhem By Using Good Irrigation Managers

Determining the best irrigation schedule for a mixture of landscape plants is difficult enough but when salinity is involved, either in the soil or in the irrigation water, it complicates matters. Let’s cover some irrigation do’s and don’ts and see how salinity might affect the way we irrigate. Avoid Daily Irrigations Except for shallow rooted plants like lawns, annual flowers and vegetables in raised beds, daily irrigations should be avoided any time of the year. Many turfgrasses and annuals have root systems that extend into the soil 12 inches or less. During the heat of the summer and under desert conditions some of these plants may require daily irrigations. The deeper you should water. Lawns, annual flowers and annual vegetables have the shallowest roots and need to be watered the most often. The concept of irrigating nondesert landscape plants is focused on wetting the root system to its entire depth, allowing the soil to drain and re-wetting the soil again when half of this water has been used by the plant or evaporated. The Amount of Water Applied Varies with the Size of the Plant So we can see that the volume of water applied in a single application is directly related to the depth of the root systems of plants. When designing a landscape irrigation system we try, to the best of our abilities, to put plants with similar rooting depths on the same valve or station. Create irrigation zones in your landscape that reflect the needs of the plants in it. This is because the only way to water less or more often is to turn the valve to that irrigation line on or off. This is done with the valves. So each valve should represent different irrigation depths in your landscape; trees and large shrubs, smaller and medium size shrubs and small plants. Other valves could include annual plants and lawn and desert adapted plants which don’t need to be watered as often. You could even create another zone just for cacti. (This diagram originally appeared in Sunset magazine many years ago demonstrating Hydra zoning or mini oasis landscaping) More often than not we are handed an irrigation system with a mixture of plants that have a variety of rooting depths. When deciding an irrigation schedule for a single valve or station we generally have two options; set the number of minutes based on the average rooting depth of all the plants or let the plants with deepest root systems dictate the number of minutes of station runtime. Do We Conserve Water or Minimize Plant Problems? This decision depends on whether to conserve water or minimize landscape problems. When we decide to under irrigate some plants so the majority receive the correct amount of water, we may see some plant damage. If the under irrigation is not severe, we may see the slowing of plant growth, a decline in density due to leaf drop, leaf tip or burning of leaf margins. When plants are severely under irrigated then we begin to see branch die back and in some cases death. This is a mixture of a mulberry tree with cactus growing underneath it. Water the mulberry tree and the cactus gets over irrigated. Water only for the cactus, as this was done, and the mulberry doesn’t get enough water. Under irrigating, or applying less water than dictated by a plants rooting depth, can also impact safety issues. What happens if we under-irrigate large trees such as pines which have shallow roots to take up water but require deeper roots to anchor it in the soil? Current irrigation technology is based upon time management and varying how water is applied to plants. This technology varies the amount of water applied to plants by changing the number of minutes valves are open, increasing or decreasing the points of water emission or changing the rate of water applied at the point of emission. This translates to increasing or decreasing the number of drip emitters, bubblers, nozzles or spray heads or substituting old points of emission for new ones that have different rates of application. This is a highly sophisticated Hunter ACC irrigation clock. These types of irrigation clocks are expensive but give you a tremendous amount of flexibility. They wouldn’t be good for small landscapes but an excellent choice for large landscapes that have a lot of irrigation variability. Making these changes to an irrigation system that was designed by a professional and focused on the uniform application of water, more than likely will make the system less uniform and less efficient. This will likely result in substantially higher water usage. These types of alterations to professionally designed systems must be done with care. These six station inexpensive irrigation controllers are fine for most small landscapes that don’t require a lot of flexibility. When to Make Changes in the Irrigation System? There are some obvious cases where changes must be made. For example, changes must be made when some plants are receiving excessive amounts of water or not enough water while others on the same valve appear to be watered adequately. As plants get bigger, they need more water. When plants get bigger, their tops get bigger as well as their root system. Increasing plant size requires the application of higher volumes of water. Increased plant size dictates that the area irrigated under the plant also needs to be increased. Logic tells us we need to increase the amount of water by applying it to a larger area. Just because a few plants on an irrigation valve have grown larger seldom requires increasing the number of minutes of runtime. Other plants on the same circuit that received adequate amounts of water would then be over-irrigated for the sake of a few. Is Increasing the Number of Minutes the Right Decision? Of course increasing the number of minutes is the easiest solution to the problem but is it the right one? The quick fix of bumping up the number of

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Leaf Damage Can Come from Salts

Q. Do you have any idea what causes deformed leaves to appear on my shrubs? I thought it was from heat this past summer but I also see it on trees not in this sunny spot. Readers picture of small, deformed leaves from shrub. Except for the scorched leaf margins, the plant looks healthy. A. If you look at the edges of the deformed leaves on your shrubs, they have brown margins or edges, very typical to salt burn.             Fertilizer? If too much fertilizer is used or placed too close to the plant, it can cause this kind of brown leaf margins. They can also cause unusual growth. Most fertilizers are salts and can cause salt burn if too much is applied or applied too close to the trunk or main stems. Extreme salt damage to vegetable leaf             Salt damage sometimes occurs after a heavy rain. This is because salts are pushed away from the roots with applied irrigation but rain can push the salts back toward the roots. The return of salts to the roots can cause plant damage. For this reason, it’s a good idea to run drip irrigation right after a heavy rain. Minor salt damage to pepper leaf margins. Enough to cause eventual leaf cupping.             Salt damage is much worse for plants when air temperatures are hot rather than cool.             Not enough water applied? This has nothing to do with how often water is applied, how many days each week, but about how much water is applied during each irrigation. Drought like this can also cause smaller leaves with brown margins.             Salt burn can look a lot like drought.             Mulch problem? Mulch placed too close to the trunk can cause disease problems when the trunk is in contact with wet mulch too often? This is true of wood chip mulch and rock mulch.             Zinc deficiency can cause something similar, but I don’t think this is a zinc shortage.             What to do? Flush the area under the canopy with a large volume of water to wash salts away from the roots. Secondly, pull wood mulch or rock mulch away from the stems or trunk of the plant. Third, add one or two more drip emitters to the plant so as to increase the volume of water applied without having to change the minutes on your irrigation clock.

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Problems When Planting Tomatoes, Peppers and Eggplant

Two  Major Problems When Planting in Desert Garden Soils The first problem regards the organic content of the soil. When growing many vegetables, they perform better with improved soil aeration around the roots. This is not necessarily true of root crops such as carrots or onions but is more important for tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and the like. To improve soil aeration add a 1 inch layer of compost and dig or till it in each growing season. If you use compost make sure you pay attention to the carbon to nitrogen ratio (C:N) of that compost. The lower the carbon to nitrogen ratio, the more nitrogen is added to that garden soil. If the carbon to nitrogen ratio is 20:1 or lower, you may not need to add any nitrogen fertilizer for 1 to 2 months after transplanting. Adding a rich compost with a low carbon to nitrogen ratio and then adding a high nitrogen fertilizer at the same time may result in very bushy plants with no flowers until the nitrogen begins to run out. The second problem involves water. Garden soils and soils in raised beds have additional compost added to them prior to planting. Frequently compost and soil mixes blended in desert environments are high in salts. These are not the bad salts but they are good salts in high enough concentration where they might damage plants if soils remain dry at the time of planting. This is usually not true in wetter environments with higher humidity. Be sure to keep garden soils wet at the time of planting and immediately water the soil around transplants to remove air pockets and dilute any salts that may be present. Do the same thing when planting from seed. Make sure the soils does not dry between irrigations until you begin to see strong growth from the seeds. Seedlings of many plants are less tolerant to salts, whether they are good salts are bad salts, than the mature form of the same plant.

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Correcting Oleanders with Leaves Browning Along the Edges

Q. We have one oleander approximately 2 years old and 4 new ones we purchased several weeks ago.  The older one (1st photo) and one of the new ones (2nd photo) have some leaves that are browning along the edges while the centers are still green; a few have tips that are browning too.  From what I’ve read, could the plants have leaf scorch or, “salt or boron toxicity”? Two pictures sent in regarding oleander leaf scorch A. You are right, this browning along the margin of oleander leaves, or leaf scorch as it is sometimes called, could result from a number of things. One possibility is a bacterial disease that has been called Oleander Leaf Scorch. It is a bacterial disease which is rarer in plants than fungal diseases. This disease is carried from plant to plant by what we call “vectors”. These vectors can be insects that feed on the “juices” of this plant or they can be transmitted by humans on pruning shears. This is why I am constantly reminding people to clean and disinfect their pruning equipment before they begin pruning and between plants if the plant they finished pruning appears to be “sick”. More information about oleander leaf scorch from the University of California Leaf scorch can also because to buy a lack of water and excessive salts in the soil which can be made worse if plants do not get enough water. One particular salt that you have identified as a problem in our soils is boron. The other particularly troublesome salts contain sodium and chlorides. Salts that contain for plants, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and others can also cause leaf scorch if they are in excess. Fertilizer salts containing high levels of nitrogen can be particularly troublesome and cause plant damage if applied in excess, too close to the plant or when soils are dry. What to do? Apply compost around the base of the plant and either wash it into the soil or lightly dig it into the upper surface of the soil. Add more water. If you feel as if the plant is not receiving enough water, add more drip emitters. This is preferable to just increasing the number of minutes since everything watered by that valve will be affected. If you’re fertilizing the plants, make sure the fertilizer salts that you apply are kept at least 12 inches from the trunk and applied near the emitters or bubbler. Make sure the soil does not become dry between irrigations because dry soils increase the concentration of salts already in the soil. Lastly, cut the oleanders to the ground and let them re-grow from the base. If you apply more water, improve the soil and are careful with fertilizers and the plants still have leaf scorch during the next growing season, then dispose of them and to get new ones. Oleander leaf scorch will not be in the soil. It can only be transmitted from unhealthy plants to healthy plants either by insects or humans who are not careful about pruning.

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There is Lots of Salt in Las Vegas Water and It Can Affect Plants

Q. I saw that on August 12th you responded to a question regarding yellowing leaves on a Meyer lemon tree.  My tree has similar symptoms – though the yellowing is more spotty and on tips.  You advised to “give it a long deep watering about once every few weeks…to supplement the regular water to leach out the salts…” (emphasis added).             I realize that soil make-up effects watering needs, but can you give me a ballpark as to how many gallons of  “regular water” per week is needed for these trees in Las Vegas in addition to the leaching you recommended?  My tree is approximately 7 feet tall. Should I spread these gallons out over a few days a week, or is giving it these gallons slowing on a single day once a week? A. That’s actually a very interesting question and we have some research to back up the amount. There is about one ton of different kinds of salts (all of these together make up the “salt” content) in one acre foot of water that comes from the Colorado River (Lake Mead).  Rose leaf with salt damage             An acre foot of water is about 360,000 gallons. Unless you are on a well, this represents about 80% of the drinking and irrigation water provided by water purveyors (Las Vegas Valley Water District in the case of Las Vegas) in the Las Vegas Valley.             This sounds like it could be quite dilute but actually when you water to a lawn from Lake Mead it will carry 4/5 ton of salt for every 360,000 gallons that are applied. This translates to an application of 800 pounds of salt for every 1000 square feet of lawn area each year. Salt damage to pineapple guava from salt in the irrigation water             Bottom line, if this is municipal water it carries a considerable amount of salt. If you skimp on the amount of water that you apply and don’t overwater a little bit, this salt will accumulate around the roots of plants. This “little bit” of overwatering each time you water is only about 15%.             So if you apply 100 gallons you really should apply 115 gallons to help move the salts out of the root zone of plants. If it is 50 gallons, then apply an extra 7.5 gallons. Ten gallons means you should apply 11.5 gallons.             Few people are this precise when they water unless they are watering a golf course and paying $1M each year to irrigate an 18 hole golf course. So when you water you can apply a little bit extra each time you water (15%) or you can flush out the salts around the roots by adding an extra irrigation or two during the hot months to keep those salts moving out. I hope this helps.

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