Xtremehorticulture

Leaf Damage Can Come from Salts

Q. Do you have any idea what causes deformed leaves to appear on my shrubs? I thought it was from heat this past summer but I also see it on trees not in this sunny spot. Readers picture of small, deformed leaves from shrub. Except for the scorched leaf margins, the plant looks healthy. A. If you look at the edges of the deformed leaves on your shrubs, they have brown margins or edges, very typical to salt burn.             Fertilizer? If too much fertilizer is used or placed too close to the plant, it can cause this kind of brown leaf margins. They can also cause unusual growth. Most fertilizers are salts and can cause salt burn if too much is applied or applied too close to the trunk or main stems. Extreme salt damage to vegetable leaf             Salt damage sometimes occurs after a heavy rain. This is because salts are pushed away from the roots with applied irrigation but rain can push the salts back toward the roots. The return of salts to the roots can cause plant damage. For this reason, it’s a good idea to run drip irrigation right after a heavy rain. Minor salt damage to pepper leaf margins. Enough to cause eventual leaf cupping.             Salt damage is much worse for plants when air temperatures are hot rather than cool.             Not enough water applied? This has nothing to do with how often water is applied, how many days each week, but about how much water is applied during each irrigation. Drought like this can also cause smaller leaves with brown margins.             Salt burn can look a lot like drought.             Mulch problem? Mulch placed too close to the trunk can cause disease problems when the trunk is in contact with wet mulch too often? This is true of wood chip mulch and rock mulch.             Zinc deficiency can cause something similar, but I don’t think this is a zinc shortage.             What to do? Flush the area under the canopy with a large volume of water to wash salts away from the roots. Secondly, pull wood mulch or rock mulch away from the stems or trunk of the plant. Third, add one or two more drip emitters to the plant so as to increase the volume of water applied without having to change the minutes on your irrigation clock.

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There is Lots of Salt in Las Vegas Water and It Can Affect Plants

Q. I saw that on August 12th you responded to a question regarding yellowing leaves on a Meyer lemon tree.  My tree has similar symptoms – though the yellowing is more spotty and on tips.  You advised to “give it a long deep watering about once every few weeks…to supplement the regular water to leach out the salts…” (emphasis added).             I realize that soil make-up effects watering needs, but can you give me a ballpark as to how many gallons of  “regular water” per week is needed for these trees in Las Vegas in addition to the leaching you recommended?  My tree is approximately 7 feet tall. Should I spread these gallons out over a few days a week, or is giving it these gallons slowing on a single day once a week? A. That’s actually a very interesting question and we have some research to back up the amount. There is about one ton of different kinds of salts (all of these together make up the “salt” content) in one acre foot of water that comes from the Colorado River (Lake Mead).  Rose leaf with salt damage             An acre foot of water is about 360,000 gallons. Unless you are on a well, this represents about 80% of the drinking and irrigation water provided by water purveyors (Las Vegas Valley Water District in the case of Las Vegas) in the Las Vegas Valley.             This sounds like it could be quite dilute but actually when you water to a lawn from Lake Mead it will carry 4/5 ton of salt for every 360,000 gallons that are applied. This translates to an application of 800 pounds of salt for every 1000 square feet of lawn area each year. Salt damage to pineapple guava from salt in the irrigation water             Bottom line, if this is municipal water it carries a considerable amount of salt. If you skimp on the amount of water that you apply and don’t overwater a little bit, this salt will accumulate around the roots of plants. This “little bit” of overwatering each time you water is only about 15%.             So if you apply 100 gallons you really should apply 115 gallons to help move the salts out of the root zone of plants. If it is 50 gallons, then apply an extra 7.5 gallons. Ten gallons means you should apply 11.5 gallons.             Few people are this precise when they water unless they are watering a golf course and paying $1M each year to irrigate an 18 hole golf course. So when you water you can apply a little bit extra each time you water (15%) or you can flush out the salts around the roots by adding an extra irrigation or two during the hot months to keep those salts moving out. I hope this helps.

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Removing White Salt Deposits on Walls With Acid

Q. Our backyard block wall has some white stains on it. These appear where the sprinkler water hits the wall and I want to remove them.  I have read on-line to use things like diluted muriatic acid, but I don’t want to kill the plants my wife has throughout her garden.  How can I clean the stains, and can I treat the walls to protect from more stains forming Salt deposit on slumpstone wall when plants are being irrigated by bubblers. Salt in the water is carried up the wall where it evaporates, leaving behind the salts. The other side of the wall does not have sprinklers hitting it either. A. These are salts remaining from either those sprinklers or water from the soil wicking up the wall. Our soils contain quite a bit of salt as well as our water. Water coming from Lake Mead carries about 1 ton of salts for every 326,000 gallons. It sounds fairly dilute but it is not.              Our soils vary much more in salt and can be removed by leaching. The salt in the water of course is consistent. The combination of the two can mean some pretty high salt levels. Salt dissolves readily in water and when the water evaporates from the wall, it leaves the salt behind. These are probably the salt deposits you’re seeing on the wall. Even drip irrigation can cause problems like this since the water can wick through and into porous surfaces.             You don’t have to use muriatic acid but you can use and acid, even vinegar to help remove it. The major concern with plants is having the acid fall on foliage. This will damage the plant. Of course the best way to prevent it is to not use overhead irrigation.             In the case of drip irrigation, put the emitters on the opposite side of the plant from the wall, not next to the wall. Perhaps there is a treatment to the wall that could prevent this from happening. I don’t know of any.

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