Q. I am new to this climate and want to plant two apple trees in my yard; one for eating and one for cider. Do you have any experience growing Dabinett apple trees or other apples indicated for USDA zones 4 – 6 in this climate?  I ask because I want apples that produce the right kind of fruit. A. All apple tree varieties will grow here. Many will even produce fruit here. But there are only a few that will produce high quality fruit here. There is a concept in wine production called “terrior”. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terroir http://winefolly.com/tutorial/terroir-definition-for-wine/ Picking the right terrior is the reason why some wine grapes are better suited to specific agroclimatic regions than others. For instance, in Las Vegas we focus on the “warm climate reds” and a few warm whites, with cool season wine grapes not producing the right balance of acids and sugars. Of these “warm climate reds”, it is still too hot for the best quality.             The same concept, terrior, applies to fruit quality and apples. First off, our hot desert location is not the best for apples to begin with. It is better suited to apricots, peaches, plums and their relatives. However, it is BEST suited to pomegranates, figs and dates.             There are only a handful of apples I would recommend for this climate regarding flavor. Some produce here better than others and still others produce better fruit than most. I would recommend finding an apple that grows well here AND produces quality fruit that you like.             Otherwise, what you are doing is experimental and chances are most will not produce the fruit quality you would like. There is a possibility some might but chances might be slim.             Regarding Dabinett, an English variety, you are taking a risk. Don’t get me wrong. I love this kind of risk but be aware of the downside in trying. Be aware of, particularly with apples, it may take 3 to 4 years before you get decent fruit.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) and Mexico’s National Service for Animal and Plant Health, Food Safety and Quality (SENASICA) are committed to increasing transparency and strengthening monitoring and enforcement controls for organic products traded between the two countries. One important mechanism for achieving this goal is the use of import certificates. In October 2016, USDA and SENASICA established an agreement to require import certificates for all organic products traded between the United States and Mexico. An example of a certificate from the USDA On Jan. 16, 2017, the new requirement will become effective for all products entering the United States from Mexico, and these products must be accompanied by a National Organic Program (NOP) import certificate. Mexico will implement its own requirement for organic products entering Mexico from the United States in early 2017. Get your NOP import certificate here Learn how to complete the NOP import certificate here  I was not able to find import information of organic products into Mexico. Probably because it is “one way” due to the demand for organic products in the US and lack of demand in Mexico. An interesting discussion can be found by clicking here. 

This booklet is intended to be a practical manual that describes methods and materials that can be used by small-scale producers in developing countries to package agricultural products. It covers foods that are grown and/or processed on farms and then transported to wholesale markets or processors, or in some cases to retailers for sales to customers.  Packaging food means wrapping or containing it in some form of material that will protect it during storage, transport and distribution. Packaging prevents food from becoming damaged due to impact or crushing, contaminated by insects and microorganisms, or affected by moisture, air or odors. In general, packaging prevents foods from spoiling, losing value and losing volume through leakage or spillage. Download and read this document here.

If you are interested in starting up a business, food processing offers an excellent opportunity to generate income using locally available resources. Focusing on the establishment of such a business using fruits and vegetables, this detailed and informative manual covers topics such as: products and processes (bottling, drying and picking), potential markets, equipment, facilities and quality assurance. Issues involved in the management of your business – health and safety, staffing issues, finances and business strategy – are also addressed in an easy-to-follow, practical way. The result of collaboration between small business owners and advisers, this text provides an invaluable resource to both start-up enterprises and established entrepreneurs who wish to update and improve their businesses and profitablility. This is a document published for the EU (European Union). Frequently the guidelines are similar to those in the US. Make sure you find and learn the ins and outs of your local ordinances that regulate this type of business. This is usually the local health department or similar. You will also need the appropriate business licenses and insurance for operation and sales. Look and download the document here

USDA Seeks Comments on Proposal to Establish a New Organic Research, Promotion, and Information Order WASHINGTON, Jan. 17, 2017 – The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) is seeking comments on a proposal for a new industry-funded research and promotion program. The proposed Organic Research, Promotion, and Information Order would cover certified organic products and would include a range of agricultural commodities, such as fruits, vegetables, dairy, meat, poultry, breads, grains, snack foods, condiments, beverages, and packaged and prepared foods. It would also include non-food items, such as textiles, personal care products, pet food, and flowers. Organic imports – both those certified under the USDA organic regulations and those entering the U.S. under an organic equivalency arrangement – would also be covered. Learn More

New Roots SLC is an urban agriculture outfit operated by the International Rescue Committee in Salt Lake City, and we’re in search of an innovative and level-headed program manager who takes the long view when solving systemic problems. This is a job that is surrounded by diversity and is in charge of a close-knit creative staff that’s addressing food access barriers in Utah.  The new manager will inherit a program currently delivering on a handful of federal and state grants that are strengthening urban ag in the Salt Lake Valley by linking 150-plus new Americans with community gardens and farm land.  Our farm is planning a land expansion within two years, and we need someone to help shepherd that into reality. In addition, we run a farmers market in a large food desert and we’re at the forefront of a nascent farm to school movement in Utah. Yeah, we’ve got a lot of important irons in the fire. But if you think you’d be a good fit, know that you’ve got a clever and dedicated team that will have your back. For a full job description and to apply go HERE.[chm.tbe.taleo.net]        Community Garden in Sacramento, California

Q. Have you written any gardening books? You are such a wealth of information. A. My blog is my “gardening book”. It is freely accessible to anyone with internet and people can add information to it or correct mine if they think it is not the best advice. In many ways I feel educational blogs are better than books. My blog receives anywhere from 30.000 to 40,000 views each month (could be compared with opening a book and reading a page) with over one million views over its lifespan. How many times does a book get opened? Views and questions are from all over the world with the most views coming from the United States, Russia, Ukraine, France, India, Canada, Australia, South Korea, Germany, China and others. How else can you get worldwide distribution of your “book”? I have kept sales advertisements off of my blog for the present time. I have been considering it as I get closer to “retirement”. We will see what the future brings.

Q. Do you prefer Neem oil or Horticultural oil when spraying fruit trees?   A. Horticultural oil is used for spraying trees and shrubs when leaves are absent during the winter. Horticultural oils, sometimes called dormant oil or even dormant spray, have a very specific viscosity or “thickness” which makes them effective in killing pests. These oils are petroleum-based and refined so they don’t damage plants if applied correctly.             When spraying trees, fruit trees and shrubs make sure the entire plant is covered with horticultural oil from “head to foot”. Neem oil is used primarily during the growing season when leaves and the offending insects are present.             Neem oil is a bit “trendy” right now. And it is plant-based rather than petroleum-based which for some is important. One major difference between neem oil and horticultural oil is the “toxicity” of neem oil toward some insects. Horticultural oil is not “toxic” on its own. It relies on “suffocating” insects for control.             Remember, just like many “organic” pest control chemicals, neem oil is nondiscriminatory in what it kills. It cannot recognize a good insect from a bad insect. You direct the spray towards pests you want to control or food that you want to protect. This is also true of horticultural oils but, unlike neem oil, is frequently applied when leaves and fruit are not present.             Neem oil has been promoted for disease control. A little known fact is that horticultural oils will control nearly all of the same diseases as neem oil. Similarly, horticultural oils can be applied when leaves and fruit are present as long as temperatures are below 80° F.             Personally, I have never found neem oil particularly effective in killing pests although I do use it in rotation with soaps and other organic pest controls. I worry a little bit that there is a wide variation in the “quality” of neem oils being produced and available on the market. Horticultural oils are pretty much all the same. Stay with name brands of neem oil.

Q. Our Bermudagrass lawn is covered with little “mounds” of dirt. Something is digging in or digging out of the dirt and I suspect it can’t be good!  Grubs?  What do I do?  Mounds of dirt created by earthworms in a lawn A. These mounds appear in lawns after a long rain or if the soil has been flooded. Those mounds of dirt are excavations from earthworms. Earthworms move to the soil surface when they can’t get enough air, leaving behind little piles of dirt. We also see it in soils that are compacted for the same reason. earthworm channel             There are many earthworms in our soils particularly where plants are growing. They provide a lot of benefit to the soil and recycle nutrients from decaying plants and very small animals like insects. They also create air and water channels in the soil.             Earthworms do not like to be exposed but they will come to the surface if they can’t get the air that they need. The only way they do that is by digging these channels to the open air. In some parts of the country earthworm populations are so dense they create problems when they surface, leaving behind the piles of dirt you’re seeing. In cases like these, people are more likely to ask how to get rid of earthworms.             In your case, don’t worry about it. It’s a good sign. These mounds will disappear after a few more things. If the problem persists and it does bother you, aerate the lawn with a commercial core aerifier and dethatch it.

Q. My dwarf oleanders have quit flowering.  Should I cut the flower pods off now or never?  If yes, how far down the stem should I cut? One of the dwarf oleanders A. You can do just about anything to oleanders without problems. Make them look good. Cut them off if you want or leave them. No difference.  Dwarf salmon color oleander can be winter tender here. Wait to prune them until mid Feb. Every three to four years cut three or four of the largest diameter stems to the ground for renewal. Trimming on the outside, shearing, is never needed by the plant. Shearing is a bad practice on oleander for a number of reasons.