a challenge to match our environment with the banana’s requirements. That said,
it is marvelous to watch the huge purple flower emerge and slowly expose tiny
green bananas, even if they are not able to mature into sizable yellow fruits.
Edible bananas, Musa acuminata, are herbacious perennials that grow with a large
pseudostem through which leaf stalks emerge at its tip until the growth cycle
nears completion, about 2 years under favorable conditions. Then, instead of a
leaf stalk growing from the pseudostem, a single flower stalk emerges,
enlarges, the petals peel back from the “bud” and in between at the base of the
petals are the fruits in bunches called hands. [See pictures, changes over 7
days.] After fruiting, the pseudostem dies back.
so mail order is customarily
required. Common cultivars are a good choice, and
note that not all banana plants are edible fruiting. Search the Internet for their
current availability. Order from resources that provide safe packingand
shipping, and the shorter the travel time the better (the expense of air or two
day shipping is sometimes worth it.) The plants will be shocked from travel in
any case. Best time of year to order is spring. Fall ordering leaves short time
for the plants to acclimate before winter protection must be placed.
When the days get short, say less than 12 hours, their growing slows. That is
why overwintering them in a dark garage is not a
good idea. They may never
recover, and it can get dangerously cold there in winter. In our climate,
bananas can tolerate heat but do not tolerate direct sun; broken shade is
probably a best location. They should be planted in the warmest microclimate on
your property. In my opinion, the growth of the plant is best if it is continuous
and not interrupted by cold, wind, or heat. Banana plants tolerate wind, but not
a hot, dry desiccating one, so limiting exposure to wind is also a
consideration. In-ground (not in greenhouses) bananas require serious winter
protection, strategies for which are available in nursery catalogues.
Container planting may seem a reasonable option, especially
when considering seasonable portability in anticipation of hostile weather. In
warmer weather, relocating the plant should maintain its orientation to
sunlight. An urn of at least 20 inches is desirable, with a radius of about 5
feet around it to allow proper leaf spread. I prefer clay to plastic or
pottery. Since the duration of the plant’s life is about 36 months,
accumulation of salts from hard water should not be a problem. Emerging plants
in the same urn, however, should be transplanted to replacement soil. Hand
watering may be necessary, and moving the watered urn is a challenge. It is a
good idea to “double pot” the urn so that, in the heat of summer, roots are not
“cooked.”
soil is alkaline and bereft of nutrients. Various formulations have been given
to improve the soil, for example, perlite, peat moss, potting soil, 33% each.
The ultimate pH should be on the acid side, between 5.5 and 6.5. Well draining
medium is preferred, and a generous bottom layer of cactus mix will enhance
drainage.
12-12-12 should be satisfactory. I recommend applying fertilizer first when the
weather warms up and once in early fall. Some recommend more frequent
fertilizing and special fertilizer combinations of nutrients.
stick” is a useful guide to determine plant watering needs. In-ground plants, also
mulched, are regularly watered, once per week for 15 minutes in Winter,
increasing to twice per week in Spring, and perhaps once more per week at the
height of Summer. Observation of the leaves, drooping when dry and discoloring
when too wet, is also helpful in modifying watering schedules.
potentially able to fruit. If you count the leaves on pictures of fruiting
plants in nursery catalogues you will note they almost all have at least 10
leaves. Preventing leaf loss is critical to successful fruiting. After
fruiting, it will take 2-4 additional months for fruit to ripen. I have not
found measuring the girth of the pseudostem helpful in predicting flowering.
observation on plant growth should detect harmful conditions.
able to grow them, even if they don’t grow edible fruit. From the base of the
mother plant, little plants surface, and can grow to be mature plants. These
offshoots are called “pups,” and are the same cultivar as the mother plant.
i.e., growing edible fruit, elusive. I have been able to get fruiting but the
fruits do not grow or ripen; they are small and inedible. There are still
adjustments to try, for example, timing the cultivation of “pups,” the root
offshoots from the mother plant, to allow for a longer uninterrupted season may
be one strategy.
bananas in Las Vegas is a work in progress.
S.l.: Timber, 2011. Print.
Bananas in Hawai’i: Then and Now: Traditional Pacific & Global Varieties,
Cultures, Ornamentals, Health & Recipes. Haiku, HI: Pali-o-waipi’o,
2011. Print.
Place of Publication Not Identified: W.O. Lessard, 1992. Print.
Warm Climates. Miami, FL: J.F. Morton, 1987. Print.
Cool Climates: Gardening with Tropical Plants in Temperate Zones. Boston:
Houghton Mifflin, 2000. Print.
Grow. New Iberia, LA: Stokes Tropicals Pub., 2000. Print.
Fruit Growers. Web. 11 Sept. 2015.
Florida Farms. Web. http://www.centralfloridafasrms.com/bananacare.htm
Florida!” Welcome to Going Bananas of Homestead, Florida! Web. 11
Sept. 2015.
Sheld
Nevada
2015
So the banana tree is a three year lifespan typically is my understanding?
It depends on which banana variety. Some of them produce fruit quickly resulting in a short plant while others may get older and taller and take longer to flower.You might take a look at this website for more information in growing them in colder climates. https://homeguides.sfgate.com/seasonal-growing-stages-banana-tree-57638.html