Santa Rita Prickly Pear Cactus for Desert Landscapes
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Compost in Trash Can Stuck
Q. I’m composting in plastic trash cans with holes. It’s taking a very long time to make compost despite adding carbon to my grass clippings and kitchen waste. I water and turn it every few days. What am I doing wrong? A. There could be several reasons why. Perhaps the volume of compost is too small. If the amount of compost is too small, it will never produce enough heat on its own. If the air temperature is cold and the compost pile small, the composting process will be very slow. Maybe it’s too windy. Composting is difficult in areas where there is significant wind or too much sun. Compost develops better in shady areas of the yard without wind. The compost ingredients might not be high enough in nitrogen. Compost ingredients are divided into two categories; “brown” ingredients which are loaded with carbon and “green” ingredients which are loaded with nitrogen. Compost should have significant amounts of “green” ingredients or use animal manure. The compost may be too dry or too wet. Compost needs to be moist but not sopping wet. Compost is like a living organism; it needs air to “breathe” and moisture. Microorganisms are needed in the mix. I reserve a small amount of compost from the previous mix to act as a “starter” for the new mix. Or I will put in a couple of pounds of garden soil just for the microorganisms. Solve these problems and the composting process will speed up.
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Fig Fruit Production Not on/off Switch
Q. Would a fig tree produce figs if it got sun in the spring, fall and summer months but not the winter? I have lots of spots to plant trees but a house blocks winter sun. The amount of light and the quality of light is important in flower and fruit production as well as increasing the branching of some plants. All plants have a minimum amount of light required to flower and maintain fruit production. The amount needed varies among plants but generally most of flowering and fruiting plants need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day A. Success depends on how much sunlight plants get when leaves are out. When leaves are gone, sunlight is not nearly as important. Winter sunlight is not terribly important for trees in our climate because it is cold and the plant is dormant or “resting”. But light during spring and summer months, when leaves are out, is very important. That is when sunlight is critical. Fruit production is usually not controlled by an “on and off” switch. As the total amount of light decreases, the amount of fruit produced also decreases. At some point, if the plant does not receive enough light, flowering and fruiting stops. The amount of sunlight needed for flowering and fruiting varies somewhat among plants but fruit trees generally need a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight. If sunlight continues to decline during months when leaves are out, at some point, there won’t be enough light for the plant to make flowers and produce fruit. It stops producing fruit, only leaves and stems. Foliage plant, and interior plant that produces only leaves and stems, growing under very low light conditions in the Amsterdam airport men’s bathroom. This plant was selected because it requires a very low light levels to produce leaves and stems and can take a very tough conditions. If a fig tree is getting a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight when leaves are present, it will probably produce decent fruit. Not all this light has to be direct sunlight. Reflected light also counts but not as much.In direct light, light from bright reflecting surfaces, will contribute to flowering and fruit production but more indirect light is needed than direct light. Much of this depends on the total amount of light as measured in footcandles per hour or watts per square meter per hour. The quality of light, the color, is also important because it can trigger some types of behavior in plants. Fruit production also depends on the “quality” of reflected light. If light is reflected off shiny or white surfaces, then plants receive more light than light reflected from darker or variously colored surfaces.
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Roundup Does Not Cause Root Damage of Saguaro If Properly Applied
Q. My Saguaro cactus is beginning to lean and I’m afraid it will fall over. Landscapers were spraying weeds with Roundup on top of the soil near it. Will Roundup hurt my Saguaro and Prickly Pear cacti? Did the Roundup make the Saguaro lean by hurting its roots? Do you know anyone in the Coachella Valley who can put a brace on it so it doesn’t fall over? A. To kill or damage plants, Roundup must be sprayed onto the green parts of the plant. Older parts of the plant which are not green or no longer green won’t absorb any. If your gardeners sprayed the ground surrounding the Saguaro there should be no problem for the Saguaro. There is an exception. Roundup can move in water and cause damage. Never spray Roundup where there is moving water. Any pesticide including Roundup can move with wind or significant air movement. Never spray when there is air movement over 2 mph. never spray the hot surface of a soil or rock because pesticides can volatilize, move upwards with warm air and damage plants. As long as landscapers or applicators are careful around plants there should be no problems. In my opinion, the reason your Saguaro started leaning is because of how it’s irrigated. Saguaros support themselves with roots that extend long distances from the plant. This stabilizes it as it gets taller. If irrigation is applied close to the trunk and there is no other water available then roots will not grow very far. As it gets larger, it gets top-heavy and these short routes can no longer keep it upright. What to do? I sent you a picture of how to properly support a Saguaro after it has been planted and until I can get established. Install other plants with drip irrigation at several distances away from the Saguaro. If the soil is wet, the roots of the Saguaro will find this water and grow further from the trunk.
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Fall Planting Fig No Problem If They Don’t Freeze
Q. Can I plant fig trees in the Fall or should I wait to buy these trees in the spring? A. Plant in the Fall. Fall is the best time to plant all fruit trees including figs. The problem is finding varieties of fruit trees that you want. But if you find the tree you want, if it is not sensitive to freezing temperatures, plant it. Figs handles temperatures down to about 10°F or -12°C. The best time for planting freeze tolerant plants is in the Fall. Begin planting as temperatures cool from the summer heat. In Las Vegas this is towards the end of September through the middle of November. All the fig varieties grow well in the Mojave Desert if the soil is improved at the time of planting, they get enough water and it is delivered at the right time.
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The Religion of “Organics”
What Is “Organic”? I posted this to show the confusion which exists about the term “organic”. I don’t share my opinions much on my blogs. I try to post facts. But this term, organic, has me concerned. The term “organic” is confused by the public. This confusion leads to sales opportunities. Some marketing people capitalize on this confusion. Others don’t know the difference. If this confusion is not addressed or removed it could open the doors towards abuse in marketing and sales. Three types of “organic” products; 100% Organic, USDA Certified Organic and just plain “Organic”. What do they mean? “Organic” Compost I do quite a bit of consulting. Now that I am retired from my University position I am free to do that. It gives me a lot of chances to see things that I don’t see in academics. One of my consulting jobs is with a composting company in the United States. One of the products they market and sell is a compost made from biosolids. The biosolid content was somewhere around 20% by volume. Most composts made from biosolids are 100% “organic” and high in phosphorus. When a consumer asks if this product is organic, what is the correct response? In one sense of the word, it meets this definition 100%! But is this what the consumer is really asking or wanting? “Organic” compost made with composted biosolids. Biosolids are rich in nitrogen. No additional nitrogen needed to speed up composting into weeks. Is this “organic”? If the components were left to “rot” on their own, it would takes months without the biosolids. I found that about 80% of the people who understood the difference (after a long explanation about organics by me) decided it was something they could use. Most of these reasons, I believe, were based upon price. But 20% refused the product and were willing to pay a higher price for a product that contained 0% biosolids. I developed a low-cost compost that contained a 0% biosolid. To speed up the composting process of these “vegan” products, nitrogen was added as a mineral fertilizer. Now the compost was no longer “organic” but it contained no biosolids. Compost made using biosolids. Biosolids contain human waste. Many states no longer allow burying human waste in landfills. This creates a huge potential disposal problem. The US Environmental Protection Agency has worked very hard to develop protocols for composting biosolids and recycling it back into the environment. These protocols include extremely low human pathogen levels and “caps” for heavy metal content. Some of these composted biosolids meet the US EPA levels for “safe” application to fruits and vegetables. Compost, all organic components made from plants, made without composted biosolids but nitrogen fertilizer is added to speed up composting. Without additional nitrogen added, composting can take a very long time.. “Organic” Weedkillers There is a weedkiller, that is 100% organic and high in phosphorus. It is extremely effective and systemic as well. In other words, if I applied it to the leaves, the plant could take it to the underground roots and kill the entire plant. If I told this to a consumer they might buy it, relying on the word “organic”as the key word for purchasing. What if I told you that this description is 100% accurate but it describes the weedkiller called Roundup? Would the consumer still buy it? Technically speaking, Roundup is a 100% organic, high phosphorus, systemic weedkiller. Consumers looking for a 100% organic product might be sold this when it’s not what they wanted. This is the active ingredient in Roundup weedkiller. It is an “organic” compound, high in phosphorus. “Organic” Fertilizers What is an “organic” fertilizer? These same principles might apply to fertilizers as well. Unlike “mineral” fertilizers, urea fertilizer, 46-0-0 or 45-0-0 could be classified as “organic” because, like glyphosate, it has an “organic backbone” in its chemical structure. The basic structure of urea, whether it comes from animal waste or manufacturing Like all mineral fertilizers, the biggest problem is not in the pure, basic chemistry of the fertilizer. The plant doesn’t care if the nitrogen comes from bat guano, urea, chicken manure or cow manure. The potential problems are with the chemicals “associated” with the fertilizer, “contaminants” if you will. These contaminants might come from its manufacturing process, minerals associated with the mining of this fertilizer, or even (heaven forbid!) what the cow ate (animal maures) or how it was cared for (antibiotics)! But most antibiotics are also “organic”! “Organic” Label The organic label for food in the United States must meet some very specific, legal requirements before this label can be applied to it. These legal requirements are required by the United States Department of Agriculture before this product is “awarded” this label. http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2017/04/non-organic-substances-permitted-by.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2017/04/natural-substances-prohibited-by-usda.html The USDA requires a fair amount of bookkeeping that must be presented to a certifying body before the “organic” award is granted. There is fraud sometimes. There are unscrupulous producers who lie about the legal requirements and obtain an organic certification when they shouldn’t. Hopefully, the number of producers who are fraudulent are in a very small minority but they are out there. http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2017/05/national-organic-program-alert-on.html Add captionThis is the “Certified organic label owned by USDA. All products awarded this certification can apply it to their label. Are there fraudulent products which receive this certification? Yes, but hopefully the numbers are very small. Compost Made from Animal and Plant Waste If the nitrogen comes from animals or plants then its “naturally organic”, right? But is that type of “organic” safe? Isn’t that what we are looking for? The word “compost” is frequently equated to “organic”, “natural” and “safe”. But is it? Compost piles “cold composted” or “hot composted”. The difference can be the presence of weeds when it is used or an abundance of potentially life threatening microorganisms. Compost does not necessarily mean the product is “safe”. Compost thermometers are used in commercial composts to kill weed seeds, human pathogens and indicate when the pile
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Elm Tree Growth After Bad Pruning a Possible Liability
Q. Could you give some advice on this elm tree. It is about 40-45 years old. My father topped it (it is in SE Oregon). I think it may need to be cut down, however if possible to improve it, that would be what I would like. The branches are so spindly I think they will break easily. Also, any idea how much longer it can survive? Elm tree in SE Oregon, probably Chinese elm. A. Most of these remaining elm trees are Chinese elm and considered “trashed trees” as far as their landscape value in urban areas is concerned. Yours appears to be in a rural area. In rural areas, “trashed trees” can be still valuable. Your tree has grown back for several years from a bad pruning job so I would leave it alone. One of the big problems with bad pruning jobs is limb breakage because of how the tree grows back after bad cuts. This can be a liability problem. If you’ve had strong winds through there with no limb breakage then I would be less concerned. Otherwise, have a certified arborist come through and do an evaluation of the tree. Personally, I don’t think a tree like that’s worth it. If you have concerns about its looks or liability, I would have it removed and put in something else.
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Jimson Weed a Perennial
Q. I have a second year Jimsonweed which I started from seed. It really grew this year and now all leaves are gone. Should I cut back the large branches or leave it alone? A. I wont ask you why you have jimson weed but you are aware that parts of it are hallucinogenic and please be careful with it. It was used by some southwestern Native Americans for religious rituals. It is possible to cause kidney and heart failure if mishandled.It is now recognized for some potential health benefits but you have to know what you are doing to use it safely. Compounds that are potentially dangerous can vary widely from plant to plant. It is an annual in northern climates and a perennial in tropical climates and herbaceous perennial in semitropical climates. You should start it from seed every year if it is planted in a location where temperatures get low enough to kill it outright. In our climate of the Mojave Desert the top will die when it freezes and regrows from the base in the spring. So, sometime this winter cut it to within about one inch of the soil and let it regrow when it is warm. Mulch it during cold weather.
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Got Wind? Consider Windbreaks for Fruit Trees in Containers
Q. We are wanting to grow a couple of dwarf fruit trees in pots. We live on a hill quite a ways above the valley floor. Our backyard faces south with nothing to block the wind so it gets very strong especially in the spring. We want to place the pot in an area off the patio between our house and the neighbors. The sunlight would be somewhat filtered there part of the time. Our first question is what kind of potting mix to use. Also, how big should the pots be and what kind of trees would work the best? Wind damage to ornamental plum A. Sounds like you’ve got several questions wrapped into one. This could be a fairly involved response. I don’t want to make this decision for you but you should be aware of all the factors involved that I can think of. Persimmon leaf wind damage Wind is not good when growing anything. I would strongly suggest you consider constructing a windbreak on your property to protect the patio area and any gardening that you’re doing. I’m sure it’s a beautiful setting but open areas with a beautiful view have its drawbacks when it comes to growing things. Wind damage to plum leaves Wind picks up speed as it moves between two homes. This is called wind channeling. Think of how a slow-moving, wide stream increases in speed as the stream narrows. The same thing is true about wind. Not a good location for a patio or fruit trees unless there is a windbreak. Container mixes are light in weight because containers are usually meant to be moved otherwise you would plant the trees in the ground. Light weight soil mixes are good for containers if the containers are meant to be moved. If you use a heavier soil mix that will hold water, don’t expect to move the containers. This is the trade-off when selecting lightweight soil mixes. If the containers are too small and you select trees that get large, they will blow over in a wind. If you select smaller containers, then select fruit trees that mature smaller in size. I would use containers that hold at least about ½ cubic yard of soil. This would be about 800 to 900 pounds of soil mix, maybe 600 pounds of potting soil. A combination of wind and freezing temperatures can be a big problem for citrus. I would stay away from citrus in Las Vegas unless your neighbors have success with it. This is what I would do if I were you. See if you can find an acceptable compromise between building a windbreak and still protecting your view. If this is not possible, be prepared that growing vegetables, fruit trees and even ornamental plants will be a bit of a challenge in that location. It’s not impossible to have both, but you need a talented landscape designer or landscape architect to help you figure that out. You will need at least six hours of full sunlight or maybe about ten hours of indirect light for flowering or fruiting trees in containers. Moving on with your idea, select smaller sized fruit trees suitable for containers that are not citrus but are able to handle the wind. Some fruit trees you might consider are the miniatures. These are not semi dwarf or standard trees on dwarfing rootstock. These are genetic dwarf trees. There are too many to list but they are out there. They are usually not the best fruit that you can grow but they’re okay.The line of Bonanza peach is one example. Another option is to select a full-sized fruit tree that is smaller at maturity. This might include pomegranates or persimmon for instance. They can withstand the cold. Pomegranate also withstands the wind better than most fruit trees. Persimmon will hold on to the fruit in windy locations but it gets a lot of leaf wind damage. Select a soil mix rather than a planter mix. Soil mixes are usually heavier and hold more water after an irrigation. Places like Viragrow in North Las Vegas handle high-quality soil mixes.
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Damage to Citrus Leaves Varies with Seasons
Q. Someone I know is having problems with something eating the leaves on his citrus tree. I cannot think of what animal would do this. Can you? Feeding damage by insects can vary with the maturity of the leaf A. If this damage occurred to citrus leaves earlier in the season when temperatures were warm, it could because the by insects or even snails. If this is happening now, while temperatures are cold, then think of warm blooded animals such as rabbits, ground squirrels or even rats. Ground squirrels hibernate when temperatures are cold but you may see them active when temperatures are still warm but it is winter time. Citrus leaves will probably drop when the temperatures get cold enough and so that problem will be gone. I would not worry about it too much at this time of the year. It would be more of a problem if leaves started disappearing during warm weather when the plant is relying on the sun for its source of energy. If it’s caused by warm-blooded animals, they will move on to something else.
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