xtremehorticulture – Page 168 – Xtremehorticulture

Call for Gardeners, Not Blow N’ Goers

Leave a Comment / Uncategorized / xtremehorticulture

Q. I am so hoping you will be able to help me:-)) I need an actual gardener and landscape company… we planted a wonderful organic garden that cost a fortune to have done, results have been minimal. I need someone to maintain and help us. We would like to hire someone with actual knowledge about yard care, not just someone who comes with a leaf blower and a pair of shears:-)) We just discovered we have wood bores!!! Any recommendations you would have, would be so appreciated. A. I wish I could direct you to a solid landscape company. Most people are price driven in their selections and so our valley is dominated by blow-and-go companies, not professional gardeners. I was hired in the past to work with local companies to do that but for a variety of reasons this arrangement has failed to gain a foothold. I have also worked with a couple of “landscape consultants” who claim to do this and, to be quite frank, I was very disappointed in their level of knowledge and do not have a lot of faith in their abilities. We used to have a couple of very good “gardeners” in town in past years but they are no longer with us (deceased) and no one has replaced them. If you find something I would certainly like to know about it.

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Attention Bay Area Transplants: Plant and Care for Fruit Trees Differently in the Desert

Leave a Comment / Planting fruit trees in the desert / xtremehorticulture

Q. We just moved from the Bay Area in California to Las Vegas and we brought some small trees with us and they are having a rough time. We’d like to know what to do to help them; Granny Smith apple, a 5 variety grafted apple, a 5 variety grafted pear, a calamansi, a Meyer lemon, a Valencia orange and a cherry tree. I’m pretty sure the cherry is dead and the 5 grafted apple has lost all of its foliage and all of the leaves on the Granny Smith are turning brown and drying up. The pear has actually produced new leaves, but most of the leaves have some brown on them. The trees were in pots but we worked hard digging in the clay and we put some gypsum in the bottom of the hole to try to break up the clay. Any recommendations on more things to do? A. I am sorry for this much delayed answer to your questions. I have been working outside of the country and I reserved your question for a bit later response because it needed to be more detailed. I needed to respond to you about the time of year for planting, preparation of native desert soil at the time of planting, irrigation and the use of mulch here. Bare root fruit trees arriving in Las Vegas from Dave Wilson Nursery. Best time to plant fruit trees is late winter and very early spring. Fruit trees are always going to struggle if they are planted during the summer months or just before the summer months. Summer is absolutely the worst time to plant fruit trees in our desert climate. It may work in San Francisco but I avoid summer planting like the plague. The optimum times are mid to late winter, early spring and the fall months of September and October. Our desert soils here are horrendous so you must use soil amendments at the time of planting. I use straight compost and mix this 50-50 with the native soil that I removed from the planting hole. I dig the hole very wide but only deep enough to accommodate the roots of the tree or root ball from the container. I dig a hole that is about 3 feet in diameter or about three times the diameter of the roots. The surface of our desert soil here in Las Vegas At the time of planting I make sure that the hole and the contents of the hole is sopping wet. Never put dry soil or dry amendments in direct contact with plant roots or plants will suffer a setback. If the plants have been in containers, I “fluff out” the roots from the edges of the root ball at the time of planting. If there are large roots present at this edge, I cut them off. Once planted in this slurry of soil and water, I make sure the tree is staked so that the roots no longer move during strong winds. One of the least expensive ways of staking the trees is to use a 3 foot length of 3/8 inch rebar pounded through the backfilled hole and into solid ground beneath the hole immediately next to the plant. I use green nursery tape, which is soft and flexible, to tie the trunk of the tree tightly to the rebar. This rebar is removed after one complete growing season. Rebar driven into the planting hole next to a newly planted tree BUT IT WAS NEVER REMOVED!!! C’mon, it has to be removed at the end of the growing season or this kind of damage is done. Use a hammer, whack it a few times and pull it out. It is not that difficult. I apply surface mulch around the tree a distance of at least 6 feet in diameter and 4 inches deep. Wood mulch, not bark mulch, greatly improves the growth of the trees during the first couple of years. Keep this surface mulch away from the trunk of young trees a distance of at least 6 inches to a foot until they have been growing about four or five years. I have put this picture of mine in this blog several times to demonstrate the value of applying wood surface mulch to early fruit tree development. If you want good fruit tree development in the desert, USE surface mulch!!! Proper irrigation is critical. It is best if the trees are planted so there is a basin about 4 inches tall and surrounding the tree that can be filled with water from a hose. After watering with the hose three or four times you can switch to drip irrigation or any other form but the first few irrigations should be done with the hose to settle the soil around the roots. Irrigation basin surrounding fruit tree Drip irrigation for new trees should have at least two drip emitters located about a foot away from the trunk. In later years, two more emitters can be added to the trees as they become larger and move the emitters to a distance of about 18 inches from the trunk. As trees become larger they will require more water. It is easier to add more emitters than it is to add more minutes to that station which forces all of the plants on that station to receive more water and will most likely result in water wasted. In midsummer, if you have mulch on the surface of the soil, water deeply twice a week to a depth of 2 feet. It is impossible to tell you how much water this is in minutes. Generally speaking, a 5 gallon tree will require 5 gallons of water at each irrigation. One, 5 gallon per hour emitter running for one hour is enough water. But, if the water needs to be distributed over a larger area than use two, 3 gallon per hour emitters and run it for 50 minutes. If you

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Eliminating Mesquite Pods

Leave a Comment / How to eliminate ornamental fruit, mesquite beans, mesquite seed pods / xtremehorticulture

Q. I s there a spray for mesquites like there is for olive trees so I wouldn’t get the pods? A. There is no chemical that is specifically labeled for Mesquite trees and keeping the pods off. There are a couple of chemicals that might work. Here is a good link from the Morton Arboretum on reducing fruit, and this would include pods, produced by ornamental trees. http://www.mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/horticulture-care/preventing-or-reducing-fruit-ornamental-trees The problem is we don’t know the right concentration or the correct timing. I will post this on my blog and also on the Yahoo discussion group desert horticulture and see if we can get some discussion on this. I have Sweet acacia on my property and it drops pods all the time but I have a rock mulch that is multicolored and my landscape is not formal so it blends into the mulch. But these pods are much smaller than Mesquite.

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Cutting off Desert Willow Suckers Good or Bad?

3 Comments / chilopsis linearis, how to grow desert willow / xtremehorticulture

Q. Is it a good or a bad thing to trim the “suckers” off a Desert Willow? We have a number around here that came up on their own. We rather like them. Have been of the theory that cutting off the “suckers” will allow the trees to grow taller and be healthy. A. It is not good or bad. How you manage them, cutting off suckers or not, will determine what they look like and how they perform. Common desert willow flowers Desert willow pruned to a single trunk Desert willow winter form and left pretty much unpruned If these suckers are coming from one tree then removing them allows the remaining tree to grow in height faster and become larger. Leaving them on will cause the tree to grow more slowly in height and stay smaller. It is a management decision and what you want them to do and look like. Desert Willow is a small tree native to the deserts of the southwestern United States and North and Central Mexico. Flowers are quite showy and can vary in color from white to purples and blues to deep reds. It can be found growing along perennial waterways in the desert which means it probably is classified as a phreatophyte. I will have to work a little bit from memory but I believe there was a breeding program in Texas regarding flower color. And there was a big push to use this plant for erosion and streambank control because the branches would be buried after a heavy rain, root and create new plants. There is a very large range in flower color and it is a shame we don’t have more colors to pick from in the trade. It is messy. Somewhat closely related to desert willow is Catalpa since it is in the same family and of course the over planted Catalpa/Desert Willow cross, Chitalpa..

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Can I Plant Snap Peas From Seed?

Leave a Comment / edible pea pods, how do i grow snap peas, sugar snap peas / xtremehorticulture

Q. I have a small raised garden with good dirt. Can I plant snap peas, if so when? I bought a bag at the grocery store. I love them raw and opened about 20 pods the peas. They were very small. Can I plant them and how deep? Do they grow in a bush or on a pole As you can tell I have never grown any before. A. No, I would not plant these peas. They are immature and will not grow but only rot. When seeds are collected from plants, the plant parts where the seeds are located must be mature. We harvest peas and beans in an immature stage. This is because they are tender at this stage. Snow peas harvested at the immature stage for export to Europe by small-scale commercial farmers in Kenya. There are vegetables such as tomatoes that we harvest fully mature and we can save seed from these fruits. In the case of peas and beans, we would wait until the pods have fully matured and no longer tender if we want to save seeds for planting. At this stage the seeds have become hard. We see this stage in beans and peas in the store when we buy them bulk or plastic bags. We will buy kidney beans, navy beans, pinto beans and sometimes peas this way. They have been dried so they do not mold or rot but they are fully alive, just sleeping and waiting for moisture and warm temperatures to germinate. Snow peas under commercial production by small-scale farmers in Kenya The only way to eat beans when they are fully mature would be to soak and cook or boil them. Could you do this? Of course you could but conventionally we eat green beans and sugar snap peas when they are tender and immature. Snow peas at the perfect edible immature stage of development Most commercial types of snap peas or sugar snaps are bush types since they are easier to harvest. Purchase snap pea seeds for planting and harvest them when they are immature for fresh eating and allow some of them to remain on the plant for drying and proceed the next year. However, there can be problems when you save seed from varieties that are F1 hybrids. Unless you are willing to read up and study on how to save seed I would recommend buying the seed from a reliable source..

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Brown Scarring on Cactus Due to Surface Damage

Leave a Comment / brown spots on cactus pads, What is scarring my cactus / xtremehorticulture

Damage to cow’s tongue, Opuntia Cochineal scale on cows tongue Q. Not sure what happened to my plant I sent you a picture of this plant the other day and the next day I see these spots. All I did was remove a chicken wire fence from around the plant. A. I would not be overly concerned about it from a plant health perspective. Yes, it does distract from its aesthetics. This type of injury can because by something damaging the surface of the pads at those locations. A frequent problem can be cochineal scale which appears like wet cotton on the surface of the pads in groupings. Once the scale is removed either with a high pressure sweep nozzle on a hose or chemicals the damage can still remain from their feeding. But anything that damages the “skin” of the pad will cause this type of scarring. Make sure that you are not irrigating this type of cactus too often or they can develop root rot and die. Also, if you are using drip emitters and they are all located very close to the plant and there are no other sources of water than the roots may develop only in this tiny location and when it gets tall it can fall over because of its own weight, it’s top-heavy. So hopefully there are other sources of water within a foot or two of this plant so the roots will spread out and hold the plant upright.

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Control Pillbugs/Sowbugs With a Variety of Methods

Leave a Comment / control pillbugs sowbugs rolly pollies on strawberries, how to control pillbugs, how to control rolly pollys, how to control sowbugs / xtremehorticulture

Pillbug, sowbug, rolly polly. Thanks Texas A and M for this pic. Q. I took your advice and am treating pillbugs in my garden like slugs. I have drowned them with beer but they keep coming back. But, they keep coming. I have two bowls with about 100+ critters in each every morning. My neighbor has been giving me his old cans of beer. I had to dig up the rhubarb plants and put them in pots. This is sure a frustrating year. Hope you are having more luck . Dirt Devil cordless vacuum. Mine is an older Model. A. I am sorry to hear you’re having such a problem with these critters. Maybe I can add my two cents. These critters are crustaceans, in the same classification as lobsters and crayfish. They have gills and so must have a wet environment to stay alive. Anything in the garden that keeps moisture on the surface of the soil and around plants is going to encourage them. Likewise, they will want to hide during the daytime underthings that collect moisture such as mulches, newspaper late on the soil surface, boards on the soil surface, etc. sometimes just laying these items on the soil surface and removing them during the day followed by some light vacuuming with a cordless vacuum can provide some control. I use the Dirt Devil cordless vaccuum. I don’t know if it is the best one out there but it works. Maybe some others have a better one if they can comment. Mine was fairly inexpensive and when you are trying things out for a first time price becomes important. I have used it now for four years. As far as chemicals are concerned, I see diatomaceous earth recommend a lot. The problem with this is it cannot handle wet environments. And these critters cannot handle dry environments so they are kind of mutually exclusive of each other. As far as pesticides go the natural products containing pyrethrum is supposed to work. Heavier duty insecticides such as the synthetic pyrethrins which end in -thrin in the ingredients should also work. I saw a report that the insecticide Sevin (carbaryl) will also work. I hope this gives you some other options. Take Down is Monterey’s synthetic pyrethrin.

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Spraying When Prahing Mantids Are Active

Leave a Comment / how to spray when beneficial insects are used, Praying mantids, praying mantis / xtremehorticulture

Praying mantis or mantid Q. I’m starting to see stinkbugs or squash bugs on a few squash leaves as well as the eggs on the undersides of the leaves. I know how fast those hungry buggers can suck the life out of cukes, squash, melons or whatever sounds good to them. This year I bought some praying mantis eggs/nest. It’s impossible to see when they hatch and leave home so I just thought they died. Imagine my surprise to now be finding baby mantis’s in my front and back yard….on the very same plants the squash bugs are hitting. So here’s my question. To spray for the bugs or hope the praying mantis’ will feast on the squash bug buffet? Squash bugs a close relative of stinkbugs and leaf footed plant bug. A. That’s a really good question and it is one of the major difficulties we face when we try to manage our garden and fruit trees organically or as organically as possible. You have introduced an insect predator into your garden to help keep some of the “bad bugs” under control rather than to use pesticides. It is one of the cornerstones of integrated pest management or IPM. We should also be realistic about what praying mantis can and cannot do. They are not focusing on “bad guys” to help you, they are just looking for a meal. Their meals include “good bugs” and “bad bugs”. Bt insecticide Using beneficial insects like mantids works great with some pesticides approved for organic production and it does not work well in combination with others. For instance, if we use a pesticide permitted in organic production that targets a certain pest while not harming others it can work fine. An example is using Bt that kills only the larva or worms of moths and butterflies but we want to protect the praying mantis. It is totally safe for the praying mantis since it targets only the worms or larva of moths and butterflies. However, if we are realistic, it also kills the larva of butterflies which are not plant pests for our gardens. However, if we use insecticidal soap, which is also recommended in organic production, and apply it to our vegetables or fruit trees, we are applying it is an “indiscriminate killer”; it will kill any insect on contact, squash bugs, leaf footed plant bugs, aphids, honeybees as well as praying mantis. When we choose to use an “indiscriminate killers” but want to keep beneficials, like praying mantis, from getting harmed, then we must direct the spray on the insects we want to kill and avoid spraying the ones we do not want to harm. One of the insecticidal soaps This requires a lot of plant inspection on your part; looking for, identifying and targeting the “bad bugs” with the spray. Focusing on the use of beneficial insects as your primary method of controlling “bad bugs” limits your ability to use pesticides. You must either not use pesticides or select pesticides which will not harm the beneficial insects or direct any pesticide sprays so that they come in contact only with “bad bugs”. Another approach is to use these indiscriminate killers, such as insecticidal soaps, to keep bad insects under control and realize you will have “collateral damage”. The “collateral damage” which occurs is the killing of good bugs and bad bugs with the hope that the good bugs will recover after the spraying is over. You also select “organic” pesticides that do as little damage to the general insect population as possible. This type of spray program limits the use of beneficial insects for any long-term control. It is really a “spray and pray” program. Enjoy your praying mantids. They will migrate to other parts of your landscape as well as your neighbors. Visit and inspect your garden and fruit trees often. Use plants sprays when “bad bugs” are getting out of control and target your sprays on these “bad bugs”.

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Grow Leeks Pretty Much Like Onions With a Couple of Exceptions

Leave a Comment / growing leeks in the desert, How to grow leeks / xtremehorticulture

Q. About 1 1/2 years ago, I planted a package of leek seeds. They grew, but not very fast. This spring, I had more leeks than I knew what to do with. Went on vacation, and came back to leeks that are going to seed, and look more like garlic than leeks. They seem to have lots of “sets” at the base of the plants. Are they still good to eat? Can I pull them up and use the sets in the fall to plant more leeks? It’s been an interesting ride. Leeks sold on the streets of Kosovo. A. We grow and harvest vegetables at their peak of perfection for eating. Vegetables can be harvested at any time but usually there is a preferred time when they are best for cooking and eating.So, yes there is nothing wrong with eating them at this stage of their development but they are certainly far from prime. I would collect the sets that you are seeing and re-plant and harvest them earlier. Leeks are grown from seed almost the same way as onions from seed. Plant leek seeds in mid to late fall, usually about mid-October or early November in our southern climate. Transplant seedlings to a new location in the spring about the first week of March. When planting from seeds in the fall plant the seeds 1 inch apart and about 1/2 inch deep. I usually am not the precise but broadcast the seed in a small area and cover the seeds with a shallow layer of soil. If I don’t want to use garden space, I will plant them this way in a container.You will overwinter them in the garden in a dense planting. In the spring, about mid-February to early March when they are at least 6 inches tall, dig them up carefully with a trowel or garden spade so they are not damaged and separate them. Replant them in rows or blocks about 4 to 6 inches apart. If your soil easily drains you can plant them fairly deep, maybe 4 inches or more if they are larger. Onions need to be planted the same depth as they were growing as seedlings. Leeks can be planted much deeper, deep enough so that only the growing tips are above ground. If you plant them deep you may not need to blanch them. Leeks can be fairly large so put the rows about 18 inches apart and further apart if you are growing them for monster size. When they have put on some significant growth after transplanting you can blanch the base of the plant (turn them white) by not letting sunlight reach the bases. Some people pile dirt around them while others cover the leeks with cardboard that prevents light from reaching the bases. Blanching is more for aesthetic and traditional appeal. The blanched portion is more mild in flavor. Fertilize them once a month during their growth period. They are shallow rooted so they will enjoy a surface mulch and frequent watering. Leeks are biennials. This means they will bulb up the first season and, if left in the ground, will send up a flower stalk the second season and produce seed. To do this they need two “winters” or cold period. It sounds like they went through two cold periods and sent up a flower stalk and went to seed.

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