Xtremehorticulture

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert

Glad You Selected a California Pepper Tree

Leave a Comment / deciduous, evergreen, landscape, plant selection, trees /

Q. I have a California pepper tree near my pool that’s constantly dropping leaves into it. I am wondering if I can lower its height so it will drop fewer leaves and stems. Anything else I should think about? Because pepper tress are usually evergreen during warm winters in southern Nevada they will drop their leaves all season long. A. California pepper tree is a better selection than Brazilian pepper. But they are both evergreen and can pose a problem near water that you want to keep clean. Evergreen plants constantly drop leaves all season long but drop their leaves heaviest soon after times of new growth. A deciduous tree that drops its leaves for the winter months is a better choice near pools because you clean the pool only once. Read more about pepper trees here Make Sure its Not Water Make sure it’s not dropping leaves because of a lack of water. Increase the amount of water and the frequency of application to make sure it’s not dropping its leaves because the soil is too dry. The recommended frequency of water application by water purveyors is correct for mesic trees growing in landscapes. Check to make sure enough water is applied each time to penetrate the soil 18 to 24 inches deep. Make sure that water is applied to at least half the area under the tree canopy. Water again when the soil at 8 to 10 inches deep is about half full of water or starting to dry out. To reduce soil evaporation and we growth, apply a surface mulch of rock or woodchips to a depth of 2 to 3 inches.             Also remember to apply water on, or just before, windy days. Use your weather app on your phone to judge when it will be windy in the future. You’re Right             You’re right in that lowering the trees height decreases the amount of leaves and stems you must clean up, but evergreen trees are still going to drop leaves at inconvenient times of the year. If you decide to lower the trees height rather than replace the trees, then pay the extra expense to have it done correctly by a licensed arborist. Not all licensed arborists are good at pruning trees. See some examples of their work before you employ them.

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Tropical Themed Landscapes Possible in the Desert

6 Comments / desert landscaping with a tropical theme, plant selection, tropical /

Q. I have a pool that is being built and we’re at the final stages of it being done. We are trying to create a tropical theme around the pool and most tropical plants don’t do well in the desert. Do you have any suggestions?  A. There is no reason you cannot have a tropical or Hawaiian theme around your pool using either desert plants or plants that thrive in our climate. There are dozens of of desert plants that resemble tropical plants and even some plants that grow easily in both climates. Let me give you a list of some plant materials. There are so many to pick from that will fit into this theme. This just came off of the top of my head. Some of the tropical look has to do with planting density. This area should be densely planted and use at least plants from three different size categories. Use more size categories if it’s a larger area. Be careful of focal points. Don’t have too many of them but use plant color or dramatic changes in plant texture to pull the eye to a focal point. The focal point can be a waterfall, water feature, spa area, entry/exit of from the pool, etc. designing an area should make use of continuity and rhythm through plant repetition this is usually done through plant texture or color. There are a few landscape architects and designers who read my blog. I am neither. Perhaps they will chime in with some pointers as well.Don’t be shy and please let readers know who you are and how to get a hold of you. Trees Mesquite. Any of the Mesquite trees look tropical. Bottlebrush California pepper Acacia, some of the smaller Acacia Windmill Palm, Mediterranean fan palm Larger Shrubs desert bird of paradise Rose of Sharon (hibiscus) Small Shrubs Daylilies Aloe Nandina or heavenly bamboo Bottlebrush Mock Orange¶ ornamental grasses Lantana Vines Carolina Jessamine Star Jasmine Bougainvillea (freezes back each year) Groundcovers Myoporum, sometimes called Australian Racer Star Jasmine Hearts and Flowers Bougainvillea Hen and chicks Gopher plant Perennials Agapanthus Amaryllis Hollyhocks Red Hot Poker Canna lilies Annuals Vinca or periwinkle Alyssum Geranium Celosia Nasturtium Portulaca

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Diversity of Plants Help in Butterfly Gardens

3 Comments / Flight of monarch butterflies, plant selection, plants that grow in the butterfly garden, what to plant for monarch butterflies /

Q. I’ve been thinking about growing milkweed plants to help in the Monarch butterfly fight. Any thoughts? A. I agree with you wholeheartedly on encouraging our local populations of butterflies and moths. They add a lot of beauty and grace to our landscape and provide some pollination and act as a food supply. Butterflies can be pollinators To my knowledge the Monarch butterfly does not pass through southern Nevada in its migration. I understand there are two migration routes; one from the Eastern population and the other supports the Western population. The Eastern population misses us completely in its migration routes to Mexico. The Western population is restricted for the most part by the Sierra Nevada mountains. Instead of focusing just on milkweeds I think a diversity of plant material for attracting these insects might be important. I have posted some reading material on my blog regarding butterfly gardens. Reducing or eliminating pesticide use in the butterfly garden area would be wise. There are a number of pesticides that are harmful including two that I recommend frequently to organic gardeners: Bt and Spinosad. When considering pollinators both of these insecticides can be lethal to butterflies. Always apply pesticides, if they must be applied, at times when these creatures are not active. This means the very early morning hours. Many of our moths fly at night so I would avoid applying pesticides at dusk if a major concern are night flying moths. I put together some links on general information on Monarch butterflies, moths and butterflies of southern Nevada and how to make a butterfly garden. I wish you much success. Wikipedia on Monarch butterflies http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monarch_butterfly_migration Threats to Monarch butterflies http://www.flightofthebutterflies.com/conservation-preservation/ Map of Monarch routes http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monarch_butterfly_migration#mediaviewer/File:MonarchWanderungKlein.gif Butterflies of southern Nevada. http://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ho/2005/sp0525.pdf How to make a butterfly garden in the southwestern desert of the US http://www.dbg.org/system/files/253/original/Butterfly%20Gardens%208-11.pdf?1315954953 http://gardenoracle.com/butterfly_garden.html

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Texas Mountain Laurel a Good Desert Landscape Choice

Leave a Comment / flowers, Mohave Desert, Mojave Desert, plant selection, purple, small landscape tree, texas mountain laurel, worms /

Texas Mountain Laurel or Mescal Bean Andrea Meckley, Certified Horticulturist [email protected]    Description:  flowering large shrub or small tree Mature size: 15-20 feet tall x 8-10 feet wide Water use:  low to medium Exposure:  all day sun to half day sun Origin: Texas, New Mexico, northern Mexico Caution: red seeds are poisonous Flower:  purple sweet scented blooms early spring Hardy:  0 degrees F Evergreen Texas Mountain Laurel (Sophora segundiflora) slowly grows naturally as a shrub or can be trained as multi trunk tree.  The poisonous seeds have a coat that is very hard and difficult to crack limiting risks to humans and pets if swallowed.  Native peoples used the seeds for ceremonial use and ornamental jewelry.  Use this plant as a hedge, screen or accent plant.

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Bay Laurel Good Choice for Chain Link Privacy

2 Comments / plant selection, privacy, vine for chain link fence /

Q. I would like to plant an “evergreen” vine/screening plant along a chain link fence to block the neighbor’s yapping dogs (little dogs). Bay Laurel recently planted   That area is quite shady, as there is a row of pine trees (25+ feet tall) 10′ in front of the fence. Currently the lowest limbs are about 7′ off the ground; I can prune them higher if need be.  These trees were planted too close together, so they are “wimpy”… too crowded/too much shade. If the “screening plant” could be something edible (even edible flowers) that would be even better.  I’m going to plant Goji berries farther down the fence line where there is full sun… I don’t think that they would do well in this area (about 60′ long).  I live in Pahrump so the winters get below freezing… thanks for any suggestions that you may have! Bay Laurel Andrea Meckley, CH [email protected] April 4, 2014 Bay Laurel 24 inch box after one year I suggest a shrub called Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis) column form over a vine for this situation.   This hardy evergreen is low-maintenance and you can use the bay leaves in cooking.    Don’t trim the width and when it grows to the limbs of the pine trees, top trim and it will bush out more.  Not a fast grower.     An alternative plant suggestion is Vinca Vine (Vinca minor) which is an aggressive, never get rid of vine that will accept the shade and can be weaved in the chain-link fence as it grows. So space plants depending on size of plant installed and patience level. Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis): Description:  Upright shrub or tree Mature size: 20 feet high x 20 feet wide Water use: medium water user-water as a tree Sun exposure preferred:  Shade to full sun-North, east or west facing will all work Origin:  Mediterranean Uses:  Screen, shade, leaves for cooking Bay Laurel in standard tree form Flower color and season:  Spring yellow clusters sometimes Evergreen

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Gopher Plant Adds Interest to a Desert Landscape

1 Comment / euphorbia, gopher plant, plant selection, what plants can I grow in southern nevada /

Gopher plant adds a lot of interest to an otherwise boring desert landscape due to color and texture during bloom and even after bloom. Use it as a specimen (planted alone as the center of attention) or in masses if you have a large area. In masses, plant them two to three feet apart. When it is flowering (spring and fall) it will draw attention so put it where you want people to go or see. Flower spikes turn brown so you can cut them back to their point of origin when they no longer look attractive or leave them if that’s the kind of thing you like. I asked Andrea Meckley, a Certified Horticulturist with the American Society for Horticultural Science, the most prestigious organization for professional horticulturists in the United States.

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Buford Holly a Thing of the Past In Las Vegas?

1 Comment / plant selection /

Q. We have two holly trees in our front yard that are at least 40 years old.  Last summer one of the trees began to get curled leaves and this year the entire tree looks like it is dying. The trees are on the north side of our house and get sun in the morning and afternoon. We were told locally that the trees are probably dying from old age but they didn’t know the name of the tree. We had our entire front yard replaced with desert landscaping this spring but that should not have caused the problem because one of the trees began getting curled leaves last year. Plant problem sent in by Reader   A. Years ago Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta) was commonly planted as a foundation plant in southern Nevada. They performed best planted on the north or east sides of a home, somewhat protected from the hot sun.             The most commonly planted Ilex was ‘Bufordii’ or Buford Holly. You can google this name in google images and see if it matches your plant. With the onset of desert plants and desert landscaping it has pretty well been forgotten along with some other really cool plants. All the nurseries in Las Vegas carried it forty years ago and many up to about 20 years ago. Buford Holly foliage  http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/treesandpowerlines/ilex_cornuta_burfordii_foliage.shtml               Buford holly is fairly long-lived but I have to agree a bit that as  they age, without proper care, they will begin to decline. Buford Holly berries (poisonous) from University of Florida website http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/treesandpowerlines/ilex_cornuta_burfordii_berries.shtml             I am not sure what the problem is but since one or two limbs are dying back you will most likely see the cause by following those dead limbs back inside the plant until the dying stops. The problem should be at that spot or very close to it.             A real guess is that it might be a wood boring insect that is common to all plants here. I rather doubt that it is a disease but it is most likely mechanical or physical damage by insects tunneling or accidental damage by a human being.             Buford holly is a beautiful plant if it is well cared for. It will get to about six feet, taller in very protected areas. It can be grown into a small tree maybe getting as tall as 20 feet. The thick glossy leaves have spines but not nearly as spiny as English holly.             They will produce more red berries in winter if you have a female plant and there is a male nearby. Sometimes they appear to produce these red berries with no apparent mate nearby. All hollies grow best in rich, slightly acidic soils. They would do nicely grouped with camellias and other sun-tender and acid loving plants. From residence in East Texas http://easttexasgardening.tamu.edu/homegardens/easttex1.html             Remove this dead limb by cutting it just above the healthy part of the limb. Add another drip emitter or increase the amount of water that is applied and apply a fertilizer such as Miracid or a fertilizer for acid loving plants at least once a year in the spring. Do it now if it has not had any for awhile.             Applying mulch to the base of the plants will help conserve moisture, add nutrients to the soil, make the soil more acidic, reduce weed problems and improve the general vigor of the plant. It would help to have it pruned carefully by someone who knows how to prune.

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