Q. I love my lemon bottle brush shrubs, but the leaves started yellowing. l recently added five inches of organic top soil. Additionally, l think l should add acid. What kind of supplement should l use for a long-term solution? This bottlebrush is yellowing because it surrounded by rock mulch and planted in native, desert soil. A. Leaf yellowing can be caused by many different things. With bottlebrush, it is frequently a shortage of available iron to new growth. More importantly, the soil is collapsing resulting in poor drainage and not enough air reaching the roots.             I see this often when any bottlebrush is surrounded by rock mulch. Over time, the soil around the roots becomes mineralized. In my opinion, all bottlebrush plants, in general, should not be surrounded with rock covering the soil. This is an example of an iron fertilizer that dissolves in water that can be sprayed on plants with yellow leaves.             Once leaf yellowing due to a shortage of available iron, it cannot be reversed quickly by adding soil amendments. The most immediate color leaf reversal would be spraying the leaves multiple times, a few days apart, with an iron solution. But the yellowing will return to new growth as the iron runs out.             Adding an iron fertilizer to the soil, such as an iron chelate, lasts longer, up to about 1 year. It is added in early spring, about now. But the next year you need to add more iron chelate to the soil, before new growth begins. This is also an iron fertilizer but the iron is added as the chelate with the acronym or nickname EDDHA. This particular chelate holds on to iron regardless of the alkalinity or pH of the soil. This is not true of other iron chelates.             But when iron is added to the soil, the leaves which are yellow remain yellow. Green leaf color only occurs in new growth which hides the yellow leaves until they drop off. To turn yellow leaves green again requires a spraying the plant with the iron solution I mentioned earlier.             For the long-term, you must improve the soil where the plant is growing so that the alkalinity of the soil is reduced, and the roots have better access to air. This can be done by adding compost to a soil that has become mineralized and covering the soil with wood chips rather than rock. This is a compost made from municipal solid waste. The compost is made from waste products from the city and includes human waste or biosolids that has been composted. All compost from municipal solid waste must meet EPA’s health requirements before it can be sold to the public.             When preparing a spray solution that contains iron, follow the label directions. But I suggest using either distilled or reverse osmosis water rather than tap water. This is because of the alkalinity in our tap water. In distilled or RO (reverse osmosis) water this alkalinity is removed. I am concerned that the alkalinity in tapwater might interfere with the effectiveness of your iron sprays.             I would also include something to make the spray solution “wetter”. In a pinch you can use a liquid dishwashing detergent but it’s not ideal since it contains so many additives such as hand lotions and perfumes. It’s better to use a liquid detergent which is purer such as Dr. Bonners or a detergent made from Castile soap. This is a liquid detergent, aka surfactant, that I use and purchase online. Notice that it is unscented and it is also certified as organic through Oregon Tilth. This is another surfactant that I like which is made out of saponins or agave extract that can assist fertilizers dissolved in water to move inside the leaf through the surface.             Both the purified water and liquid detergent is important because it helps move the iron contained in the solution through the leaf surface and inside the leaf .             Spray the leaves long enough so that the spray solution begins running off its surface. Spray both the upper and lower surfaces of leaves so that the sprayer is taken inside the plant more effectively.

Q. I wonder what fertilizer you recommend for my fruit trees? The young trees I recently planted in my small orchard are: plum, peach, apricot, lemon, pomegranate, plus several table grape vines. A. Lisa. Rather than just tell you what I would use, let me give you a little background on fertilizer selection. To select the right fertilizer I am supposed to tell you that you should test your soil for nutrients first and then make your selection of fertilizer based upon the test results. That’s the right answer but it’s not always the most cost effective thing to do if you will have only a few trees. The soil test would cost about $75. You can buy a lot of fertilizer for $75. It makes sense to do this if you are a farmer and spending thousands of dollars on fertilizers and you want to get the most “bang for your buck” but for homeowners it doesn’t make a lot of sense. Mineral or Conventional Fertilizers A reader applied wood chips around the base of the tree covering the area outlined by the tree canopy. Bender board is used in a circle to keep the wood chips away from the tree trunk while it is small.I suggest the wood chips should be at least 4 inches deep covering the soil around the fruit tree. Most of our soils will support the use of mineral fertilizers from a bag for many years if we have the soil covered with wood chips that slowly decompose in the irrigated areas. If the fruit trees are surrounded by rock on the surface of the soil than the proper fertilizer selection becomes more critical. Let’s say you have your fruit trees surrounded by woodchips. Fruit trees planted in lawns could be put into this category as well. Just be careful of irrigating the 2 together because they have different water requirements. If the trees are surrounded by rock instead of woodchips, they are growing in the soil that’s more similar to hydroponics. Fertilizer selection is more critical when fruit trees are surrounded by rock. Numbers on the Bag of Fertilizer Mineral fertilizers have 3 numbers on the bag. If the fruit trees are less than 3 years old, use a fertilizer that has the first and third numbers highest. The middle number, phosphorus, can be lower than the other 2. If the fruit trees are starting to produce fruit, use a fertilizer that has all 3 numbers the same value. Use this fertilizer only once at the beginning of the growing season and apply it about 2 weeks before the flowers appear. In Las Vegas, this would be about the middle of January to 1 February. For grapes, this would be about a month later. Bag of conventional fertilizer called to Flower Power with 3 numbers denoting nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium Application of fertilizer is frequent enough unless you have very sandy soils. But if you decide to make a second application, and the trees are surrounded by wood chips that are decomposing, only apply a high nitrogen fertilizer. This would be a fertilizer that has only the first number on the bag and the other 2 are zeros. Another mineral or conventional fertilizer that contains only nitrogen as a plant nutrient source. This type of fertilizer should be applied less often and in smaller amounts because it doesn’t last long in the soil. Phosphorus Phosphorus, the middle number on the fertilizer bag, sticks in the soil a lot longer than the other 2. Phosphorus is the only one of the 3 listed on the bag that can create some problems in the future if this mineral is continuously applied, over and over. This is the reason I recommend that people have 2 mineral fertilizers on hand. One fertilizer high in phosphorus, the middle number. And the other one high in nitrogen, the first number. The last number, potassium, should be as high as possible in both fertilizers. Potassium is a little bit more difficult to find in bags of fertilizers. Compost As a Fertilizer Substitute When you use a rich compost, it has all of the nutrients present. It is applied in a circle around the tree, about a foot away from the trunk or more, and watered, or lightly dug, into the soil. Rich compost is a very nice fertilizer and gently releases the nutrients to the plants over a long period of time. It is really my favorite to use but a good compost rich in nutrients is hard to find.  When adding compost as a fertilizer, use a rich compost and keep it away from the trunk of the fruit tree at least 12 inches away. Viragrow in North Las Vegas is the only place I know in Las Vegas that carries a rich compost like this. It is applied as a substitute to the first of fertilizer application. A second application is never needed and may even extend into the second growing year if enough is applied.

Join Bob Morris’ Podcast on Desert Horticulture This podcast includes discussions of questions posted previously on this blog. The topics of this podcast are: Why did my Meyers lemon not produce fruit this year Why did my Lisbon lemon stop producing fruit when I planted it from a whiskey barrel? Should I use landscape fabric when installing desert landscaping? After 6 years of having a lawn, the homeowner gave up and replaced it with desert landscaping

           I know I will get questions sent to me why their lemon or grapefruit did not produce any fruit this year. They will say, “The tree grew great, but it didn’t produce any fruit!” We had a pretty good freeze in parts of the Valley recently. If your lemon tree or other citrus had flowers, or very small fruit at that time, then that’s why. Freeze Tolerance of Flowers vs Tree             Citrus, the entire tree itself, is tender to freezing temperatures in the first place. It’s considered subtropical. The most tolerance to freezing temperatures starts with kumquat, then Myers lemon, grapefruit, followed by some of the oranges, true lemons and finally limes. Freezing damage results in temperatures ranging from about 22° F to 32° F.             As soon as growth begins, tolerance to freezing temperatures decreases in entire trees. This holds true of all fruit trees. There is no temperature discrimination when the tree is flowering. All fruit tree flowers and young fruit, whether they are apple or citrus, will die when it freezes. Freezing occurs at 32° F. No exception.             All flowers are tender to freezing temperatures. All fruit trees flowering during freezing temperatures result in dead flowers and no fruit. The tree survives at 32° F, but the flowers don’t. Young fruit trees are more sensitive to cold temperatures than older ones. Wind Makes Freezes Worse             Add a light wind to this formula, flowers and fruit for that year are history. There is a debate whether plants succumb to “wind chill” like humans and animals. Let the debate rage. But I guarantee you, if there is wind associated with any freezing temperature, there is more damage than if there were no wind at all. Protect food production areas of the landscape from wind.             You are lucky. If you don’t like a cold north wind, you go inside the house and get warm. Plants can’t. They must “suffer” through it. Therefore, let them occupy protected spaces in the landscape and they will be more productive and produce better quality food. Arizona State University’s citrus variety descriptions and harvest times.             Remember, there are microclimates in a landscape. South and west sides are warmer locations than north and east sides of the home. Protect the tree from wind and you have a nice small, warm microclimate that produces better food.

Q. I am a recent transplant to Pahrump, Nevada, from Idaho where I was a master gardener. I have an acre property of bare dirt and want to plant all sorts of edibles from tree fruits to vegetables. But first I want to plant a windbreak around the perimeter of my property. I need some advice on how to start.  A. As you will find out as you talk to more people in the Pahrump area and those that are gardening you will see the temperature in the winter time is one of your major limiting factors. Trees that do not survive below temperatures of 15 or even 10 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter time are not good choices for you so that might eliminate pomegranates, figs, etc. The Windbreak      Let’s start with the windbreak. I would caution you about is planting a perimeter around your property for a Windbreak. I think some people are making a mistake when they do that with their property. I understand the reason for defining it with some sort of wall but I think that’s the wrong approach if you are thinking about a Windbreak. Diagram of a living windbreak. Area A is the area of competition and equal to about the same height as the plants in the windbreak. This is competition for sunlight, water, etc. B is the “quiet zone” and maybe 5 times the height of the windbreak or even more. This area is the best area for food crops. The overall effects from a windbreak could be up to 30 times it’s height.      A key component of a windbreak is how much area it modifies. I would suggest for you that you determine which direction winds are coming from that are your primary problems. Put windbreaks as close to your growing area as possible. The most effective when brakes allow about 20% of the wind to penetrate it through and into the growing area. They don’t block wind as much as they slow it so it decreases the damage.      Buy  an inexpensive recording temperature device such as this Taylor instrument available on Amazon. You can get them for less than $15. Consider Non-living Windbreaks int the Desert      I would also suggest that you consider nonliving windbreaks around growing areas, particularly around the vegetable and Herb growing areas. These could be things like chain link fence with PVC slats throat through them if you want to put something up that’s relatively expensive. Or it can be as simple as reed fencing.      The area affected by the windbreak is about equal to 5 – 10 times its height. You can see that if you were to plant around your perimeter for a windbreak it won’t be very effective because the distance is too far from the growing areas. Plus, if you were to grow big plants on the perimeter they are just going to use a lot more water than a nonliving or even a living when brake that’s closer to the growing area. Plus nonliving windbreaks have a smaller area of competition.      For sure, growing areas are more productive with better quality produce if they have a windbreak. But that windbreak should be as close to the growing area as possible if it’s to be effective. Otherwise you’re just growing plants on the perimeter of your property that don’t do much good. And you have to water them.      So I hope you will rethink the windbreak options that you would have on your property before you start investing in some plant materials and irrigation to support it. As far as growing during the growing season which is probably behind Las Vegas about 3 to 4 weeks. Soil Amendments and Sun Shade Cloth in the Desert      Some of your big problems in growing will will be the use of soil amendments more than you did an Idaho and learning when to irrigate at the right time.      Sun protection may be a problem for some vegetables because the sunlight here is more intense than it was in Idaho. So some vegetables will perform better under light shade cloth, about 20 to 30% shade and no more than that.      I will forward to you some contact information on some good growers in Pahrump and start picking their brain. Start with the Pahrump Farmers Market people and get to know them in particular Cherri and her group who are very active in the gardening community there.      You can always send me some questions to verify some information or if you don’t find the information you need. Pahrump have some pretty good soils compared to Las Vegas but that winter low temperature is a major barrier that you have to consider.

Organic and conventional strawberries: nutritional quality, antioxidant characteristics and pesticide residues https://www.pubhort.org/fruits/73/1/5/index.htm H.B. Kobi1, M.C. Martins1, P.I. Silva1, J.L. Souza2, J.C.S. Carneiro1, F.F. Heleno3, M.E.L.R. Queiroz3 and N.M.B. Costa1,a 1 Federal University of Espirito Santo, Center for Agrarian Sciences, Alegre, 29500-000 ES, Brazil 2 INCAPER – Centro Serrano, Venda Nova do Imigrante, 29375-000 ES, Brazil 3 Federal University of Viçosa, Department of Chemistry, Viçosa, 36570-000 MG, Brazil What is already known on this subject? Organic farming may affect the food composition and produce healthier foods than the conventional system, characterized by intensive use of chemical products. What are the new findings? Organic farming produced pesticide-free fruits but did not imply on substantial changes in the nutritional quality or antioxidant properties of strawberries. What is the expected impact on horticulture? It is expected to encourage the organic farming system in order to produce healthy and pesticide-free strawberries. SUMMARY Introduction – Organic farming system may affect the food composition and produce healthy foods. The aim of this study was to compare the nutritional quality, antioxidant properties and pesticide residues of organic or conventional strawberries. Materials and methods – In a first experiment, organic and conventional fruits from the cvs. Camarosa and Albion were obtained directly from the farmers. Subsequently, ‘Camarosa’ was produced in organic and conventional systems, under controlled conditions. Pesticide residues were analysed in the second trial and the remaining parameters were evaluated in both experiments. Results and discussion – In the first experiment, the fruits of organic cv. Albion showed higher moisture (91.8%) and lower total solid (8.2%), and carbohydrate (5.7%) contents. ‘Albion’ fruits also showed higher total solid content than ‘Camarosa’ fruits in conventional farming system. Pesticide residues were not detected. Under controlled conditions, organic ‘Camarosa’ fruits had higher moisture (91.5%) and ash (0.4%) contents, whereas conventional strawberries had higher soluble solids (8.5 °Brix), proteins (0.9%) and anthocyanins (17.7 mg 100 g-1). Residues of azoxystrobin, lambda-cyhalothrin and thiamethoxam were detected at values below the limit of detection (<LOD) in all organic samples, and below the limit of quantification (<LOQ) in conventional strawberries. Conclusion – Organic and conventional production systems do not promote any expressive difference in the nutritional quality or antioxidant properties of strawberries, although the organic farming produced pesticide-free fruits. Résumé Fraises biologiques et conventionnelles: qualité nutritionnelle, propriétés anti-oxydantes et résidus de pesticides. Introduction – Le système d’agriculture biologique peut affecter la composition des aliments et produire des aliments sains. Le but de cette étude était de comparer la qualité nutritionnelle, les propriétés anti-oxydantes et les résidus de pesticides des fraises produites en système biologique ou conventionnel. Matériel et méthodes – Dans une première expérience, les fruits biologiques et conventionnels des cvs. Camarosa et Albion ont été obtenus directement auprès des agriculteurs. Par la suite, les fraises ‘Camarosa’ ont été produites en systèmes de culture biologique et conventionnel, en conditions contrôlées. Les résidus de pesticides ont été analysés dans le deuxième essai et tous les autres paramètres ont été évalués dans les deux expériences. Résultats et discussion – Dans la première expérience, les fruits biologiques du cv. Albion ont présenté des teneurs en eau (91,8%) plus élevées, et des teneurs en matières solides totales (8,2%) et en hydrates de carbone (5,7%) plus faibles. Les fruits d’‘Albion’ avaient également une teneur en solides totaux plus élevée que ceux de ‘Camarosa’ produits en système de culture conventionnel. Aucun résidu de pesticides n’a été détecté. En conditions contrôlées, les fruits biologiques de ‘Camarosa’ avaient des teneurs en eau (91,5%) et en cendres (0,4%) plus élevées, tandis qu’en conventionnel, les fraises contenaient plus de matières solubles (8,5 °Brix), de protéines (0,9%) et d’anthocyanes (17,7 mg 100 g-1). Des résidus d’azoxystrobine, de lambda-cyhalothrine et de thiaméthoxam ont été détectés, à des valeurs inférieures à la limite de détection (<LOD) dans tous les échantillons biologiques et inférieures à la limite de quantification (<LOQ) dans les fraises conventionnelles. Conclusion – Les systèmes de production biologiques et conventionnels ne favorisent pas l’expression de différences de qualité nutritionnelle ni de propriétés anti-oxydantes des fraises, même si l’agriculture biologique produit des fruits sans pesticides. This is a peer reviewed publication appearing in the International Journal for Tropical and Subtropical Hortculture Fruits 73 (1) 39-47 | DOI: 10.17660/th2018/73.1.5 ISSN 0248-1294 print and 1625-967X online | © ISHS 2018 

Effects of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilization on fruit yield and quality of cactus pear Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill. https://www.pubhort.org/fruits/72/4/3/index.htm M. Arba1,a , A. Falisse2,3, R. Choukr-Allah1 and M. Sindic4 1 Department of Horticulture, Hassan II Institute of Agronomy and Veterinary Medicine, Horticultural Complex of Agadir, Morocco 2 Crop Production Unit, Gembloux Agro-Bio Tech, Liège University, Belgium 3 Faculty of Agriculture, University of Agricultural Sciences and Veterinary Medicine, Cluj, Romania 4 Quality and Food Safety Laboratory, Gembloux Agro Bio Tech, Liège University, Belgium What is already known on this subject? Studies on mineral fertilization of cactus pear were carried out in some countries where cactus pear is cultivated. Several authors reported that mineral fertilization increased fruit yield, but some of them have indicated that fruit quality could be affected by fertilization. What are the new findings? Obtained results showed that nitrogen and phosphorus mineral fertilization improved fruit yield, mainly fruit size (weight and dimensions). Fruit quality was not significantly affected. Mineral fertilization also increased the emission of buds and of shoots. What is the expected impact on horticulture? Understanding the effects of nitrogen and phosphorus mineral fertilization on fruit yield and quality of cactus pear. The improvement of cactus pear managing practices, mainly the application of fertilizers, pruning and harvesting. The improvement of the socio-economic life of the farmers and the rural populations in the arid SUMMARY Introduction – In order to optimise the nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) fertilization of cactus pear in arid regions, we decided to determine its effects on the yield and fruit quality as well as on the plant phenology. Materials and methods – Five N-P dressings were compared on the spineless cv. Moussa in the Agadir area: 0–0, 0–80, 40–40, 60–0, and 60–80 (in kg N ha-1 – kg P2O5 ha-1) over two consecutive growing seasons (2011 and 2012). Yield components and physico-chemical characteristics of the fruit were recorded at harvest. Results and discussion – Although in 2011 the applications of N and P had no effect on fruit yielding, in 2012 the dressings 60N or 80P alone increased the yield by +3.0 and 6.1 kg plant-1, respectively, compared with the control. Combining both N and P at the same rate resulted in a maximum yield of 14.9 kg plant-1. Fertilization had positive effects on flowering rates, fruit size and fruit number, and did not modify the content of pulp, the juice content, peel thickness, the juice dry matter, the pH, titratable acidity, total sugars and soluble solids. It also did not modify the dates of flowering and of ripening. Nitrogen dressings significantly increased the number of emitted buds and emitted shoots on one-year cladodes by four fold. Conclusion – Relevant N-P fertilization significantly improved fruit yield, the number of fruits per plant and fruit size in particular. Long term and postharvest effects shall be further studied. Résumé Introduction – La fertilisation azotée (N) et phosphorique (P) du figuier de Barbarie a besoin d’être optimisée en zone aride. Cette étude vise à en évaluer les effets sur le rendement et la qualité des fruits et à en décrire les effets sur la phénologie de la plante. Matériel et méthodes – Cinq fumures N-P ont été comparées pendant deux années sur la variété inerme ‘Moussa’ dans la région d’Agadir: 0–0, 0–80, 40–40, 60–0, et 60–80 (en kg N ha-1 – kg P2O5 ha-1). Les composantes du rendement et les caractères physico-chimiques des fruits ont été enregistrés à la récolte. Résultats et discussion – En 2011, les différents niveaux de fertilisation n’ont pas eu d’effet sur le rendement alors qu’en 2012, l’interaction entre N et P était très significative. En comparaison avec le témoin, l’apport de 80P ou de 60N a augmenté le rendement de +3,0 et +6,1 kg plante-1, respectivement, et le traitement 60N + 80P de +14,9 kg plante-1. Les traitements fertilisants ont eu des effets positifs sur le nombre de fleurs et le nombre de fruits formés, ainsi que sur le calibre des fruits; en revanche, ils n’ont pas eu d’effet significatif sur la teneur en pulpe et en jus de fruits, l’épaisseur du tégument, la teneur en matière sèche du jus, le pH, l’acidité titrable, les sucres totaux et matières sèches solubles. Ils n’ont pas nettement modifié les dates de floraison et de maturation des plantes. Cependant, l’apport d’azote a augmenté le nombre de bourgeons émis par cladode et le nombre de pousses sur les cladodes d’un an, jusqu’à le multiplier par 4 environ. Conclusion – Une fertilisation N-P appropriée permet d’améliorer de façon significative le rendement en fruits des cultures de figuier de Barbarie en condition aride, en particulier le nombre de fruits par plante et le calibre des fruits. Les effets dans la durée et en post-récolte doivent encore être étudiés. My Comments. This is another study that demonstrates increased yield of cactus pear (aka beavertail cactus) fruits when fertilizer is applied. Water must be applied more carefully because of damage to the plants if watered too often. But this paper also addresses fruit quality to some degree. Sensory evaluation is not considered but fruit quality is measured by laboratory equipment rather than by people tasting it. Sensory evaluation is hard to judge using laboratory equipment.

Survival of pathogenic Colletotrichum isolates on dormant buds, twigs and fallen leaves of apple trees in commercial orchards https://www.pubhort.org/fruits/72/3/5/index.htm N.A. Hamada1,ª and L.L. May De Mio2 1 IFPR, Paraná Federal Institute of Education, Science and Technology, Palmas, Rodovia PRT, 280, Trevo da Codapar, 85555-000 Palmas, PR, Brazil 2.UFPR, Federal University of Parana, Department of Crop Protection, 80035-050, Curitiba, PR, Brazil Introduction – Glomerella leaf spot on apple (Malus × domestica Borkh.), due to a complex of Colletotrichum species, causes severe leaf spot symptoms leading to early leaf fall, and eventual symptoms on fruit before and after harvest. Under the Brazilian conditions, it is the main apple disease responsible for severe damage in all production areas. This study aimed 1) to verify the survival of Colletotrichum spp. in dormant organs, fallen leaves and soil samples from fungicide-sprayed commercial orchards during winter; 2) to verify the survival of Colletotrichum spp. on asymptomatic leaves during the vegetative period; and 3) to identify the species complex and to confirm the pathogenicity of the isolates obtained from different parts of the plant (on fruit and leaves). Materials and methods – The study was conducted in a commercial orchard during the winters of 2010 and 2011, assessing the pathogen survival on buds, twigs, asymptomatic leaves, fallen leaves and soil samples. Fungal isolates from different substrates were inoculated on fruit (with and without wound) and on leaves of apple cv. Gala to prove their pathogenicity. Results and discussion – This is the first investigation on the survival of the Colletotrichum complex in apple under the conditions of Brazilian commercial orchards. All isolates (16) from dormant twigs and fallen leaves were identified as C. acutatum species complex. Five (5) isolates from dormant buds were identified as C. gloeosporioides species complex and three (3) as C. acutatum species complex. According to the data collected, Colletotrichum spp. are able to survive during winter in dormant buds, on dormant twigs and fallen leaves, but are most frequent on fallen leaves. The isolates obtained from buds, twigs and fallen leaves were pathogenic on leaves and fruit of apple. Copper sprays during the dormant stage did not completely eliminate the inoculum. The pathogen was not recovered from soil or from asymptomatic leaves with the methodology used. Conclusion – Fallen leaves on the ground can be a source of inoculum from one season to the next, so they must be considered in disease management programs to avoid the spread of primary inoculum. My Comments. This again points to the importance of sanitation in growing areas. Pick up fallen leaves, old fruit, remove remaining fruit from fruit trees, and do not leave old debris from the orchard or garden in the growing area unless it has been properly composted. Most other types of plant materials left as a surface mulch not related to the garden or fruit trees is fine.

Most plums and pluots produce their fruit on short, compressed stems called spurs. Sometimes these spurs can be long and thin and other times short and stout and everything in between. The spurs don’t always look the same.In foreign countries I have been confused more than once among the plums. Please take a look at my fruit tree pruning classes each December and January in Las Vegas. Sign up for them at Eventbrite https://www.eventbrite.com/d/nv–las-vegas/fruit-tree-pruning These are fruiting spurs of one particular variety of plum. Don’t prune these off unless you know what you’re doing. These are flowers opening on fruiting spurs of a particular type of pluot. Likewise, don’t prune these off unless you know what you are doing. Once fruiting spurs are gone, that limb will never grow them back. Pluots are made by humans that cross plums with apricots, hence the name pluot. Because they have more genetics that are from plums then apricots, the fruit looks more like plums. They range in color from green, to yellow, to orange, to red and dark purple. This is a donut pluot that, I believe, was never released. Open center versus modified central leader Because they are so similar, producing their fruit on spurs, they are pruned similarly. They can be pruned either open center or as modified central leader. This structure of the tree is pruned the same as any other fruit tree with the same structure.Fruit trees that are more bushy are pruned as an open center. Fruit trees that are more upright with a strong central leader are pruned as a modified central leader.But where the fruit is produced is a totally different matter and this is where pruning differs among fruit trees. Videos released on My channel on YouTube Watch these 2 videos that I made in the last few days that talk about pruning plums and pluots. I don’t let these trees get more than about 10 feet tall through active pruning. This facilitates spraying if needed, pruning, management and harvesting. These trees are planted 10 feet apart in rows oriented north to south. They are irrigated with drip tubing and the soil is covered in woodchips, pruned from local trees.

Effect of bagging and time of harvest on fruit quality of ‘Red Fuji’ apple in high altitude area in China Baihong Chen, Juan Mao, Baona Huang, Baoqin Mi, Yulian Liu, Zijing Hu and Zonghuan Ma College of Horticulture, Gansu Agricultural University, Lanzhou, Gansu, 730070, PR China https://www.pubhort.org/fruits/72/1/4/index.htm What is already known on this subject? The positive impact of bagging apple during its development on the appearance quality of the fruit has been extensively published. What are the new findings? Bagging ‘Fuji’ fruits during their development reduced the nutritional quality attributes measured. What is the expected impact on horticulture? Our findings provide a basis for strategies to improve the nutritional quality attributes of bagged ‘Fuji’ apples in order to maintain both the appearance and nutritional qualities. SUMMARY Introduction – The appearance quality of horticultural produce including fruits is a major factor influencing consumer acceptability. Two-year field experiments were conducted from May to September in 2013 and 2014 to determine the effect of bagging and number of days at harvest on apple fruit quality. Materials and methods – ‘Red Fuji’ (Malus domestica Borkh. ‘Nagafu No. 2’) apple was used. Two levels of bagging (i.e., bagged fruits and un-bagged fruits) and five levels of time of harvest including 170, 175, 180, 185 and 190 days after full bloom (DAFB) were studied in a randomized complete block design with three replications. The bags were applied at 35 days when most of the flowers were observed to have opened and then removed at 131 days after the bagging. The external and internal qualities of the fruits were assessed by physical and chemical analysis. Results and discussion – Bagging improved most of the appearance quality parameters including longitudinal and vertical lengths, skin color, cleanness and firmness of fruits. Spot sizes and spot densities decreased in bagged fruits. Soluble solids, soluble sugar, titratable acidity and vitamin C content were, however, high in the un-bagged fruits. The soluble solids and soluble sugar in both bagged and un-bagged fruits increased after 100 days storage. Titratable acidity in both bagged and un-bagged fruits, however, decreased after storage. Harvesting either 185 or 190 DAFB was more appropriate for maintaining the quality of both bagged and un-bagged fruits. Conclusion – In the high altitude area of China, bagging improved the appearance quality of the ‘Red Fuji’ apples. Better internal quality was, however, obtained from the un-bagged fruits. Harvesting 185 or 190 DAFB was most appropriate for improved quality of the apples in this area.