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Viragrow Delivers! : Mulch and Sprays Reduce Black Fruit Rot on Tomato: Q. I planted tomatoes in late feb. in  my raised boxes..The cherry tomatoes have been doing great.. producing almost more then I can handl… I also address this on some previous posts. http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/05/tomatoes-with-black-bottoms-now-being.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/06/pepper-brown-spots-could-be-irrigation.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2011/06/container-grown-tomato-black-bottoms.html

Our spring this year was cool and wet. Even our early summer was that way. This kind of weather was good for producing a lot of tomatoes but not necessarily for high-quality tree fruits. Early apricots and even some peaches can be harvested in mid to late May in our climate. The best early-season fruit bright, sunny skies and warm temperatures. This year our skies were overcast and temperatures were cool all the way into May. Earlitreat peach, one of the earliest peaches, can be harvested in mid-May in the Las Vegas area. This is even before most apricots are ready. On a five star scale, this is a four-star peach. Temperatures below 95° F are great for setting tomato fruit but not necessarily the best when it comes to producing high quality tree fruit. The taste of fruits is complex. It isn’t just about sugar content. Devices like refractometer Refractometers measure total soluble solids which is a “reflection” of sugar content. But sugar content may not tell you anything about quality. s only measure total soluble solids which can be equated with sugar content. Sugars only provide sweetness. We need other tastes to provide a good flavor profile to fruit. Flavor begins with a balance between sugars and acids that we find favorable.This includes a mixture of organic acids such as acetic, tartaric and malic acids to balance flavor and aromatic volatiles that provide that first whiff of the fruit even before it enters our mouth. This is Indian blood peach which has a wonderful floral taste and aroma when grown in our desert climate and allowed to tree ripene. It has been around for a long time and is implanted much anymore.Most people pick it too soon and you do not get all of those floral notes. Cool temperatures and cloudy skies do not promote good sugar development. Under these conditions sugar content stays lower than normal and the acid content remains high. So the ratio of acids to sugars is not the best. When we have bright, sunny skies and warm to high temperatures then sugar content is boosted and the ratio of sugar to acids becomes delicious. The only other thing we need to make this a perfect fruit is to allow it to mature so that those volatiles fill our noses. This is why when I shop for fruit I use my nose before I buy it. You can smell good fruit before you taste it. Ask any fruit loving bird.

Viragrow Delivers! : My Palm Leaves Have Brown Spots: Q. My fan palm has black spots on the fronds.  Someone said it may lack iron.  Or, is it getting too much water? A. Without seeing … Viragrow Delivers!

Q. My tree has been in the ground for six years and each year I get plenty of new growth, leaves and flowers. The problem is, no lemons at all. I have applied fertilizer and even  miracle grow–no luck. What do you suggest other than removing the tree and starting fresh? A. The usual reasons for no lemons is either freezing temperatures after they bloom that kill the flowers or small fruit (usually in January or February) or irregular watering that causes trees to stress and drop flowers and fruit before they can mature. A light freeze will kill flowers and fruit without damaging the tree. If you have been pruning the tree, stop pruning it. Fertilize it once a year in January or February. Put a surface mulch of wood chips around the tree at least 6 feet in diameter and 3 inches deep. Cover the tree with a sheet or light blanket if temperatures during the winter approach freezing. Put a basin around the tree and fill the basin with water each time you irrigate. Avoid watering daily. Skip at least one day between irrigations.

Q.I  have about 20 tomato plants, mostly in containers. They have been receiving 6-7 hours of direct sunlight every day and they were planted the first week of March. Every year, I get a handful of plants that develop what appears to be two different problems. Some develop little brown spots on the leaves, and then die. I promptly remove the affected stem but can’t keep ahead of it. I also have plants with leaves that develop yellow and brown edges. I have two plants with the spots, both are cherry tomato plants, Sweetie variety. The plant with the brown/yellow dying edges is also a cherry, Blue Berries variety. I have 17 other plants, all close by, on the same watering schedule, with no problem.  I use drip irrigation. The plants are in high quality potting soil amended with compost and the soil gets changed and amended each season. The soil is covered with mulch. I’ve attached some photos for you. A.Thanks for all of the good information you included along with the pictures because it really helps me a lot to try to decipher what’s going on. We grow tomatoes in containers every year and don’t have any problems. However, these containers are on the east side of a building so they gets shade from the afternoon sun. I looked closely for disease problems and I didn’t really see them but as I looked closer some of the brown spots might be the development of early blight. One of the simplest methods is to remove the older leaves at the first sign of browning. Don’t leave them in the container but dispose of them somewhere else. Also remove the older leaves that are in shade as I mentioned in the other email.  You can apply a fungicide that is labeled for early blight of tomato. Commonly these are copper fungicides. Some varieties are more prone to these disease problems than others. Next year you might try switching to different varieties that will give you similar types of tomato fruit. One thing you didn’t tell me is whether you bought these plants as transplants or if you started them from seed. If you started them from seed always sterilize the seed prior to planting. The following link tells you how to treat seed either with hot water or Clorox The following link tells you how to treat seed either with hot water or Clorox http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/NewsArticles/All_BactSeed.htm The scorching along the edges appears to be a water or salt problem or both. Make sure the containers are irrigated often enough so that the soil does not become too dry between irrigations. When salts are present in the soil, and this can be from soil mixes or compost as well, when the soil begins to dry than the salts begin to become concentrated and cause more damage. I would also suggest that you either double pot these containers… One nestled inside another one with a 3 inch layer of rock or wood chips at the base… Or paint them white or shade the outside. At 95° F, the black exterior of the container will reach about 160° F on the outside and in direct sun. This can cause problems. Water management is always going to be a challenge in containers. Water them daily if they have good drainage and make sure the soil is wet at the beginning of the day. If these containers drain extremely well, you may need a second irrigation during the day. Water management is going to help in salt management and possible scorching to the leaves. If you use the same containers each year, make sure you sterilize the inside of the containers with a bleach solution and let them air for a couple of days before filling them with soil and planting in them. When applying the mulch to the container, keep the mulch away from the stems of the plants so that the plants do not develop crown rot. The small brown spots on the leaves do not appear to be a disease problem. If it were a disease problem the brown spots would most likely have a small yellow halo around them. These do not. At least they don’t now. I know you are using drip irrigation but avoid watering overhead with a hose end sprayer or other type of sprinkler. Leaves that are in the shade will be weaker than those in full sun. Thin out the canopy of your tomato plants to improve air circulation around the leaves and allow better light penetration inside the canopy. You can do this by pinching off suckers coming from the crotches of the leaves. You want light penetration inside the canopy and you want air circulation. If you don’t have this, disease problems are highly likely. Feed your tomato plants with your favorite tomato fertilizer once a month after they begin to develop small fruits. This is important because plants pull nutrients from the soil and these nutrients should be replaced as plants become larger. Take a look at this link https://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pathology/tomato.html#Top

Q. What is causing brown spots and leaf scorch on my tomato plants? I grow about 17 different tomato plants and several different varieties in containers. I always use good potting soil and compost each year in the containers. They are drip irrigated. A. This is the time of year that brown spots begin to develop on tomato leaves. As the season progresses, disease problems on tomatoes are often in inevitable. Prevention of disease should be high on your list of things to do with tomato plants.             It’s too late this season but some varieties are more susceptible to diseases than others. If you don’t know which variety you have, do a little homework and pick varieties more resistant to disease that give you the types of fruit you like.             Tomato cages are nice. They support the fruit off of the ground. Fruit lying on the ground is more likely to rot than fruit supported off of the ground. The beginnings of tomato disease probably early blight             Tomato cages can also be a menace. They force crowding of the interior of the plant. Leaves and vines growing in the center don’t receive enough sunlight to stay healthy. They also don’t provide good air circulation. This encourages disease. Remove the oldest leaves near the center of the plant to improve air circulation and reduce disease problems.             Drip irrigation is good. Watering at the base of the plant helps. Many vegetable plants, unlike us, don’t like showers. Avoid overhead watering of these plants. Overhead watering keeps the center of the plant wet which encourages disease. Splashing water can spread disease from leaf to leaf.             Regular feeding of plants is important. When fruit has set then continue monthly feeding of tomato plants. They are taking nutrients from the soil as they grow. You should be replacing these nutrients as they are removed.             At the first sign of possible disease it is important to take action. Applications of fungicides may be your last alternative. Choose a fungicide for controlling the more common tomato diseases such as early blight. Most fungicides are preventive and don’t cure a disease once they have begun and running rampant.

Q. I put a passionfruit tree on the north side of our house. I noticed many flowers but later on after self-pollination the flowers fall off. What do I do to prevent it? A. Passionfruit is tropical and at best a semi tropical vine that bears a delicious, seedy fruit with very little care under tropical conditions. It is not a tree so it does need to be supported by a trellis of some sort. This is the cold desert so this plant is handled a little bit differently here. Intercropping passionfruit, strawberries and kale in Kenya In the desert, passionfruit requires more care than it does in the tropics and it will most likely freeze back to the ground every year. But if the roots are protected from winter cold it will grow again in the spring. It is good you planted it on the north side of a building but the East side would be even better so that it gets light in the morning and shade from the late afternoon sun. It likes a lot of compost added to the soil at the time of planting and to the top of the soil each year. Giant passionfruit growing on a trellis over aquaculture in the Philippines Wood chip mulch applied to the surface helps keep the heat off of the roots and preserve moisture in the soil. Drip irrigation works but this plant may perform better if rooted in a large basin or donut that fills with water. There are many different types and varieties of passionfruit and some perform better than others in the desert. Varieties that have performed in the Phoenix, Arizona, area include Frederick, Incense and Blue Crown. More can be read about their care in Phoenix at http://www.phoenixtropicals.com/passionFruit.html Just remember that Phoenix has warmer winters than we have so we must apply better winter protection. They generally have better soils than we have as well. Passionfruit is a heavy feeder so fertilize them frequently. They set fruit easiest during the cooler times of late spring and early summer but may have difficulty during the heat. They may need to be hand pollinated if they fail to set fruit by themselves. 

Q. I was very interested in a recent article about adding ammonium sulfate to one’s lawn to keep it green. Can I do this all summer long, every 8 weeks? A. The short answer is yes. Once a year use a high-quality lawn fertilizer as one of the applications. A good turfgrass fertilizer should be high in nitrogen (the first number), low in phosphorus (the second number) and moderate to high in the last number (potassium). Also the ideal turfgrass fertilizer would have half of its nitrogen as slow release. The best lawn fertilizers have a ratio of nitrogen to phosphorus to potassium of 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 with most of the nitrogen available as slow release. One example would be 21-7-14 (e.g. 3-1-2). Another might be 20-5-10 (e.g. 4-1-2).  There are many others or others close to these ratios. The important part of this, for mature lawns, is high nitrogen, low phosphorus and moderate to high potassium. The principle nutrient lawns need is nitrogen on a regular basis. Nitrogen fertilizers keep lawns green and lush. Nitrogen is the first number in the triad of numbers on the fertilizer bag.This is why fertilizers like ammonium sulfate (21-0-0), nitroform urea (38-0-0) would be good choices to use in between the more expensive fertilizers.  Lawns require constant growth to stay healthy and look good. This growth is mowed leaving behind lawn clippings. Lawn clippings are very high in nitrogen.Clippings are removed from the lawn because they are unsightly after a mowing. However, when mowers are used with mulching blades attached the clippings are cut into very fine pieces that fall between the leaf blades and decompose. When they decompose, they release nitrogen to the lawn. When mulching mowers are used, it is recommended to skip one application of nitrogen fertilizer every year. This was a common scene years ago. Lawns were mowed and the clippings set on the curbside waiting to be taken to the landfill. This threw one nitrogen fertilizer application away each year. In the case of ammonium sulfate this is 21–0–0. A bag of ammonium sulfate contains nitrogen, hydrogen, sulfur and oxygen in mineral form. There is no “filler” in it. Ammonium sulfate is 21% nitrogen. The usual recommendation for lawns is 1 pound of nitrogen every 1000 square feet. This is applied with some sort of spreader such as a drop spreader, a broadcast spreader or hose end applicator. Since ammonium sulfate is 21% nitrogen, then 5 pounds of 21-0-0 delivers about 1 pound of nitrogen. However, I find this rate is higher than necessary and lawns do just fine at half to three quarters of this rate. This is particularly true if mowing with a mulching mower and the clippings are allowed to fall back on the lawn.              In about 99% of the cases we have two types of lawns out there; tall fescue and Bermudagrass. Both of these lawns require a high nitrogen fertilizer about every eight weeks. However, the timing of these applications is different. Cool season grasses like tall fescue grow best in the cooler spring and fall months. In our climate they are fertilized 12 months of the year., usually avoiding or reducing the nitrogen fertilizer during the hottest months. A fertilizer application at Thanksgiving is extremely important if you want a dark green lawn tall fescue through the winter. It is unnecessary for Bermudagrass. To make it simple, I recommend applying lawn fertilizers too tall fescue on Labor Day, Memorial Day and Thanksgiving. For Bermudagrass switch the Thanksgiving application for the Fourth of July. There is no problem applying a fourth application to tall fescue during the heat around the Fourth of July as well but it is probably unnecessary. Any application to tall fescue during the summer should be the half rate I mentioned earlier.

Q. Our 3 apricot trees are loaded with fruit. What is the ideal amounts of water? We have dripers at each tree 1-how much – each day(how many days a week) or per week 2-how much at one time 3-should we do more than one cycle per day A. It is difficult to tell you how many minutes to irrigate but basically you want to wet the soil beneath the tree to a depth of 12 to 18 inches every time you irrigate. On small trees, this should be the entire area under the canopy. On larger trees this should be at least half of the area under the canopy. This is a fruit tree which was removed from the orchard and going in wood chip mulch. You can see the majority of the roots are 18 inches deep in the soil and less. Most of the feeder roots that take up water and fertilizer quickly are only about 6 inches deep. You should have enough drip emitters and spaced so that it will do this. For most of our soils this means they should be no further apart than 2 feet.  This is an irrigation basin surrounding a fruit tree. Water is applied to the basin by a bubbler that produces 2 gallons of water each minute. If the basin were not present, water would flow everywhere. With the basin present it captures the water and forces it to percolate where the roots are located. Right now we should be irrigating fruit trees twice a week. Fruit trees perform much better and are more likely to hold their fruit if there is a thick carpet of wood chips on the surface of the soil beneath the canopy. This layer of wood chips can also cushion the fruit if they were to fall during strong winds. Very common if they are ripe. This carpet of wood chip mulch should be 3 to 4 inches deep. You will add more wood chips every 2 to 3 years because they will begin to disintegrate into the wet soil.  Here wood chip mulch was applied to the soil surface all through the Orchard. This much is not necessary. It would be adequate if the mulch was 4 inches deep inside the irrigation basin. There is no need to water more than one cycle each time you water provided the water is kept under the canopy. If the water tends to run off to another location then you should build a basin under the canopy to hold the water. These basins are generally about 3 to 4 feet wide. With most good drip emitters they release water so slowly that the basin is not necessary. More than one cycle a day each time you irrigate is only necessary when water is applied on slopes or when the water is applied so rapidly that it runs everywhere. Otherwise there is no magic involved in watering more than one cycle per day.