Viragrow: Biosolids Compost as Component of Potting Media fo…: Biosolids Compost as Component of Potting Media for Bedding Plants Authors Marta S. Zubillaga and Raul S. Lavado Summary Soilless …

We are currently writing a book that has been funded on desert water conservation in urban landscapes. We would like original pictures of native and desert adapted trees growing in southern Nevada. We will credit the owners with all that we use. The pictures of trees we would like to have include: Single-leaf pinion pine  Pinus monophylla Western redbud             Cercis occidentalis NOT Eastern redbud  Cercis canadensis Gambel oak                     Quercus gambelii Netleaf hackberry          Celtis laevigata var. reticulata Vitex or Monkspepper  Vitex agnus-castus New Mexican Locust     Robinia neomexicana Fragrant Ash                   Fraxinus cuspidata Desert Willow                 Chilopsis linearis  Joshua Tree                     Yucca brevifolia Utah Juniper                   Juniperus osteosperma Cliff Rose                         Purshia stansburiana Catclaw acacia                Acacia greggii  Screwbean Mesquite     Prosopis pubescens Blue Palo Verde             Parkinsonia florida Mojave Smoketree        Psorothamnus spinosus Desert Willow                Chilopsis linearis Sweet Acacia                  Acacia smallii Foothills Palo Verde     Parkinsonia microphylla Arizona Rosewood        Vauquelinia New Mexico Olive         Foresteria neomexicana Ironwood                        Olneya tesota Lacebark Elm                Ulmus parvifolia Chinese Pistache           Pistache chinensis Holly Oak                       Quercus ilex Southern Live Oak       Quercus virginiana Texas Ebony                  Ebenopsis ebano

Q. I’m composting in plastic trash cans with holes. It’s taking a very long time to make compost despite adding carbon to my grass clippings and kitchen waste. I water and turn it every few days. What am I doing wrong?  A. There could be several reasons why.  Large Volumes Perform Better Perhaps the volume of compost is too small. If the amount of compost is too small, it will never produce enough heat on its own. If the air temperature is cold and the compost pile small, the composting process will be very slow. Wind             Maybe it’s too windy. Composting is difficult in areas where there is significant wind or too much sun. Compost develops better in shady areas of the yard without wind. Nitrogen             The compost ingredients might not be high enough in nitrogen. Compost ingredients are divided into two categories; “brown” ingredients which are loaded with carbon and “green” ingredients which are loaded with nitrogen. Compost should have significant amounts of “green” ingredients or use animal manure. Too Dry or          The compost may be too dry or too wet. Compost needs to be moist but not sopping wet. Compost is like a living organism; it needs air to “breathe” and moisture.             Microorganisms are needed in the mix. I reserve a small amount of compost from the previous mix to act as a “starter” for the new mix. Or I will put in a couple of pounds of garden soil just for the microorganisms.

Q. How well do strawberries grow in our Las Vegas climate? When is the best time to plant and fertilize them? Any other tips? A. Strawberries will grow and produce fruit in our Las Vegas climate. Its not the ideal climate but they will grow and produce fruit. The best tips I can give is to plant them in the right location, at the right time of year with the right type of soil amendments, a.k.a. compost. Strawberry produced in the Easter Mojave Desert of Las Vegas             They grow best in full morning sun but given some shade during mid to late afternoons. They need about 6 to 8 hours of sunlight, the same as most vegetables. This means the east side of buildings and walls are best. Do not plant them in areas exposed to late afternoon sun because they do not handle the heat and intense sunlight well. Which strawberry is best?             Use ever bearing types of strawberries that produce through most of the season rather than the so-called “main crop” strawberries that come on all at once.             The best fruit is produced during the spring and fall months when it is cooler. Many of the common ever bearing types like Quinault, Chandler and Ozark Beauty produce well here. When to plant?             Plant them any time in February or March when you see them available but don’t wait for temperatures to get hot for planting. Some people prefer fall planting but they are harder to find. Actually, the best time to plant is in the fall if you can find them or get young plants or “runners” from friends and neighbors. Prepare the soil             Before planting, make sure the compost content of the soil is adequate because strawberries like rich soils. Soils need compost mixed with it to a depth of 8 to 10 inches deep. Use a 1 to 2 inch layer of compost mixed into the soil.             Planting depth is critical on strawberries. Make sure the soil drains water easily otherwise they will get root rot and die during the heat. Plant how far apart?             Plant 12 inches apart. New plants from runners. Remove them or peg or secure them into open areas between plants. When a strawberry patch becomes too crowded, the old plants should be removed or the area replanted with young plants. Crowded plants do not produce fruit or flower.             Just like most vegetables, fertilize them lightly and frequently with your favorite tomato or rose fertilizer, about every 6 to 8 weeks. Yes, I said to tomato or rose fertilizer because they need the same nutrients as roses and tomatoes.             When temperatures get warm, cover the soil surface with mulch. Straw is frequently recommended but I like to use horse bedding rather than straw. Horse bedding is usually made from pine shavings and they decompose in the soil quickly compared to straw.             Strawberries do very well with drip irrigation and light shade cloth (30 to 40% shade) during the summer months or protection from late afternoon sun.

Nematodes are microscopic roundworms found everywhere but quite common in managed soils. A fertile soil may contain billions per acre. Most don’t cause plant damage. The ones that do are called plant parasitic nematodes because they feed and rely on the energy and nutrients derived from plants. Good Nematodes Some parasitic nematodes are beneficial such as the so-called entomopathogenic nematodes that parasitize insects. They parasitize many different types of soil insects including so-called “grubs” like white grubs and other larvae of butterflies, moths, beetles, and flies. Some parasitize adult crickets and grasshoppers as well. These can be found marketed under several different trade names. Nematodes are not a huge problem in most turf and landscapes. Some may never encounter them. But when they are present, they draw a lot of attention because they are difficult to control. Nematode damage falls into that category of “out of sight out of mind”. But once plant damage from nematodes is identified, they are no longer “out of mind”. There are “good” nematodes and “bad” nematodes. This particular type of nematode actually attacks “bad” grubs in lawns There are two primary groups of nematodes that concern us in horticulture; those that feed upon plant roots and those that feed on plant foliage. Those that feed on plant roots live their entire lives in the soil. Those that feed on plant foliage spend most of their time above ground, feeding on leaves and succulent stems. Nematodes are General Feeders Most nematodes do not just attack one type of plant but might feed on a number of different plants. Generally speaking, nematodes that feed on plant roots can damage turfgrass, ornamentals, nursery plants, houseplants or tropicals and greenhouse plants. Nematodes that feed upon plant foliage are, for the most part, restricted to ornamentals, nursery and greenhouse plants. Nematode infested roots Sometimes we discover soil dwelling, plant parasitic nematodes when infested roots are exposed during soil preparation. The most common soil dwelling nematode is the root knot nematode. They leave behind root nodules or “swellings” on the roots. But most of the time we see above ground plant symptoms which cause us to inspect the roots. Aboveground clues to a nematode attack to the roots include leaf yellowing and scorching, leaf drop and poor or stunted growth. Roots showing the nodules that can be indicators of nematodes Sound familiar? Nematode damage can be confused with nutrient deficiencies, drought, salt problems, root damage, under or over fertilizing and plant disease. However, depending on the type of nematode, root damage may vary from the presence of galls to the stunting and decaying of roots. In some cases, nematode damage might be confused with root disease. Root damaging nematodes Types of root damaging nematodes include the stunt nematode, lesion nematode, ring nematode, cyst nematode, spiral nematode, and lance nematode which produce other symptoms. These include shortened or stubby roots, malformed roots that are multi-branched, darkened or browning lesions which resemble plant disease which frequently accompanies nematode damage. Mulberry showing slow growth due to nematodes infesting the roots of this tree. Partially overcome with high fertilizer applications. Damage from nematodes that feed on foliage are easier to identify since plant symptoms are easier to directly trace back to nematodes. This type of damage frequently occurs in greenhouses. Why? Nematodes need a moist environment to survive and spread. The higher humidity of greenhouses and the presence of surface water on plant leaves contribute to these types of nematode problems. Nematode infested roots of tomato Most references refer to the presence of “angled lesions” that result from the feeding of foliar nematodes. Perhaps a better description than “angled lesions” is “brown spots on newly attacked leaves that are not round but longer than they are wide”. In advanced stages, severely attacked leaves may turn brown and die which masks the presence of these lesions. In cases like this, search for leaves that are more recently attacked to verify these “angled lesions”. Nematode damage to turfgrass is common in warm climates and may resemble some turfgrass diseases, soil compaction, nutrient deficiencies, herbicide injury among others. Symptoms from nematode damage may gradually enlarge as much as three feet per year. Machinery that comes in contact with soils, such as aerators and hand tools, may spread nematode infestations with equipment. A common symptom occurring due to nematodes is a lack of a response from applied fertilizers. How to control nematodes? Nematodes are nearly young impossible to eliminate using traditional pesticides without killing infested plants. Prevent nematodes from entering the property through exclusion. Most problems develop when soils, composts, soil mixes and plant materials are brought in from unreliable sources. Reduce the spread of nematodes through sanitation. Clean equipment and tools between worksites that have been in contact with infested soils. Have you ever thought of growing vegetables in containers? Soils contaminated with nematodes are easily changed. Recognize that the presence of nematodes is not always bad. In the past, the general recommendation was to improve plant and soil health so that plants “grow ahead” of their damage. There is quite a bit of evidence that increasing soil organic matter through the use of compost and organic surface mulches, particularly in arid and desert soils, helps keep nematodes in check. It is thought that compost from organic matter stimulates micro and macroorganisms antagonistic to parasitic nematodes. A population of nematodes antagonistic toward plant parasitic nematodes is an important tool used to keep undesirable nematode populations in check. Compost amendments seem to be the most effective types of organic matter for keeping nematodes in check. For low organic matter content soils, such as arid or desert soils, there is a direct relationship between controlling nematodes and the nitrogen content of the soil due to additions of compost or chemical fertilizers. North America is estimated to be the largest market for nematicides; pesticides aimed specifically to control or kill nematodes. Nematicides sales are predicted to dominate the agrochemical industry from 2015 to 2020. That’s the size of our

Q. I have begun to notice crescent shaped chunks being taken from my roses…probably at night since I do not see them during the day.In the Caribbean I notice a similar pattern on certain flowering plants which turned out to be leaf eating ants that could be traced back to their nests by following the parade of marching flower petals.We spray for ants and scorpions monthly and I have not seen any ants.From this I conclude it is a flying insect.Is there such a creature as a leaf eating BEE here in the Las Vegas Valley?If so, what should I do to prevent continued defoliation?I appreciate your advice; you have never steered me wrong. Leafcutter or Leaf Cutter bee damage to leaves A. Great deductive reasoning! Very close. Leafcutter bee. We tell people to leave them alone if tolerable. http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/05/leafcutter-bee-perfect-circles-now-seen.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/09/leaf-cutter-bees-destroying-leaves-on.html

Q. I have a tomato garden 4 ft x8 ft x 1 foot deep. Every year I put three new plants of Early Girl, Champion, and Roma varieties of tomato in this bed. I redo the soil every year and plants get very big with lots of flowers and tomatoes. My tomatoes only get about 2 inches in diameter. What am I doing wrong? Tomatoes produced in the Mojave Desert including Celebrity and Beefmaster A. All three varieties of tomatoes are solid producers for the desert. Other varieties that should perform well for you include Patio, Jet Star, most of the smaller cherry and grape tomatoes. None of these varieties are “beefsteak” type tomatoes but smaller in size and have been solid performers here for many years.             Small fruit is not necessarily a bad thing. Smaller fruit are frequently more intensely flavored than larger fruit coming from the same variety. However, we are conditioned to think that bigger is better. Celebrity tomato in a winter garden Water             Provide enough water so that plants are not stressed. Water is an extremely important, limiting factor when it comes to fruit size. If plants are water stressed when fruit is gaining size, the result will be smaller fruit.             Schedule watering before the heat of the day begins. Soil moisture monitoring is important but what can be more important is the use of mulch on the soil surface when air temperatures reach about 80° F.             The soil should stay evenly moist and not widely fluctuate between excessively dry and sopping wet. Surface mulch helps do this. It doesn’t have to be thick. ½ inch covering the soil is deep enough, like dusting with powdered sugar. Renew it as soon as you see the soil surface again.             Straw is recommended a lot. I don’t like it much because it’s hard to work into the soil at the end of the growing season and it’s no longer inexpensive. I like things that dissolve easily into the soil like shredded newspaper, rice hulls, pine shavings used for animal bedding, etc. Yes, these types of mulches can rob the soil of nitrogen but if you’re constantly feeding your vegetables it won’t make any difference. Pepper growing in 5 gallon nursery container with surface mulch of animal bedding (pine shavings) Soil Improvement             Encourage deeper rooting through soil improvement. Make sure the soil is amended, biologically active and easy to work before planting. A good quality compost mixed in the upper 8 inches goes a long way toward better rooting. A garden trowel should slip easily into a properly amended soil. Soil Pro Compost from Viragrow Fertilizers             Fertilizers improve fruit production. Use a pre-plant, high phosphorus fertilizer when planting. One phosphorus application at the beginning of the growing season is enough to boost flowering and fruiting.             Don’t forget the easily forgotten last number on the bag, potassium. Potassium has never been linked to fruiting but is very important in general health and well-being.             Apply light, monthly applications of nitrogen to the soil to keep plant performance at its peak.             This has nothing to do with the size of the fruit. You have to start rotating your tomatoes into new growing spots or you’re going to have problems. Please read about rotating vegetable crops.

May 1 Grape leaf skeletonizer flying now in the Summerlin area. I would apply Spinosad instead of Bt since it will reduce the leafhopper population as well. They are about three weeks late. Spray leaf undersides and top. Repeat in three to four weeks. http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2015/04/leafhoppers-hornworm-and-skeletonizer.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2016/04/grapeleaf-skeletonizer-reported-flying.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2015/07/q_23.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2015/11/clean-up-debris-to-reduce-skeletonizer.html

Q. I put off pruning my lantana. They bloomed until about a two weeks ago. Now, they are starting to cycle through the dying and rebuilding process. Can I prune them back now, the normal way, and still have good growth? A. So, I take it, you did not prune your lantana this winter because it did not freeze. Or you just forgot. Now you are wondering if it’s too late to prune. No, it’s not too late. Do it now even though it’s starting to grow again.             Lantana is what we call an herbaceous perennial in our climate. Winter temperatures are usually cold enough that the top freezes to the ground each winter. Spring pruning removes the top, close to the ground, and it regrows again from its base or crown. This winter it did not get cold enough.             You know it has the potential to grow from its base. Cut it back hard to within 1 inch of the soil surface and it will “sucker” below these cuts. Give it some fertilizer and water after you make the pruning cuts.

Q. When I apply compost to plants, do I avoid the main trunk area or do I apply up to the trunk?   A. If soils have no plants in them, I use about 1 inch layer of compost applied to flowerbeds and vegetable beds every year. This compost is turned under or rototilled into the soil before planting.  Compost can be used as a substitution for fertilizer in vegetable and flower beds even when plants are actively growing in them as long as you can see bare soil. Apply the compost to the soil between the plants or between rows and water it in.  Compost can be applied to the soil surface and watered into the soil and act like a fertilizer Compost can be applied to fruit trees in a circle around the trees under the canopy where the soil is wet. The compost should not be piled against the trunks of the trees.  Compost can be added around fruit trees to the soil surface but keeping in from contact with the tree directly and then watered in. It is very effective when combined with a surface layer of wood chips. Compost can be applied around desert landscape plants on top of coarse rock mulch. If the rock is coarse enough, it can be washed onto the surface of the soil under the plant canopy through the rocks with a hose. It is best if straight compost does not come in contact directly with soft succulent plants or young trees. Compost tea brewer, top, and applying compost tea with an injector directly into the soil. Compost can also be put in with pure water and allowed to “seep” just like tea in a tea bag. The water separated from this combination, compost tea, can be used as a liquid fertilizer and in some cases helps reduce disease problems in the soil or when used as a spray on the foliage.  After the tea has been made the compost can still be used as a soil amendment, but, of course, wit;h a lower nutrient content. Be careful, though, the type of compost used can make this tea solution very concentrated and can harm plants unless it is diluted with water. It is good to use a salinity meter to judge whether it is safe to apply to foliage directly without dilution or knowing how much to dilute it. The salmity of the compost tea should be below 4 mmhose/cm or dS/m.