Xtremehorticulture

Ants Now Invading Garden Beds

Q. We have two 4×12 garden beds made out of cinderblocks that we built last fall. We used soil from Viragrow and had great luck with the vegetables that we planted.  The eggplants and strawberries are still producing. Our back yard is just gravel so the only water is the bed irrigation. We have noticed a lot of ants on our property this summer (the tiny red ones).  They have now invaded our garden beds. I’m not sure what to do to get rid of them because i don’t want to use spectricide or another harmful pesticide like that in our garden soil like I use in other areas of our property.  What should I do to get rid of them? A. The best thing to do is to treat the nest where they’re coming from. I like a product called Amdro which you can buy in nearly any nursery outlet including Lowe’s or Home Depot. This is a bait which is taken back inside the nest or it will kill the Queen. It must be kept dry and sprinkled close to the nest. Trace back to where he the ants are coming from and sprinkle a tablespoon or less around the mound that enters the underground nest. Keep this product dry after you apply it or it will not work. It can be used in organic farm operations as long as it’s not applied to the crops so it is a relatively safe product to use rather than sprays. Good luck. Another product that works well as a spray is Prelude or products containing permethrin insecticide. http://viragrowdelivers.blogspot.com/2014/04/prelude-insecticide-controls-numerous.html

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Why Is the Bark Splitting on My Bottlebrush?

Q. Do you what is causing the bark and stems of my bottlebrush bush to split and die on the East side?  Here are a few pictures.  I don’t see any pests.  Overall, the bush is healthy (except for a few of the branches which have bark that is splitting) and it has a lot of new growth and leaves.  Only the older branches are splitting in some spots and then entire the branch dies (top to bottom). I would estimate that only about 20% of branches/limbs have bark which is splitting. The bush was planted about 4 years ago and was purchased in a 5 gallon container. I haven’t changed the water frequency or the fertilization schedule. A. From your pictures the splitting does appear to be on the side most open and in this case the East side. To get sunburn it doesn’t take that long of intense sunlight, maybe 20 or 30 minutes. If this damage extends more than halfway around the upright stems then I would consider cutting them back. You would cut them back to remove this highly damaged area. These cuts might be quite deep inside the canopy. That’s okay because the shrub will come back and it will come back quickly to the size before. The roots will be large enough to push a lot of new growth back to its original size, then it’s growth will slow down again. I would make these cuts probably around late January or February 2015. Make sure you have enough drip emitters to provide the water that’s needed. This plant does not like to be watered daily, so avoid that. These plants tend to get yellow or iron chlorosis so I would supply either a soil application of a good iron chelate such as EDDHA or 138 iron chelate. You can do the same thing with multiple sprays of a less expensive iron product what it might take several sprays to get much greening out of the sprays. Fertilize after you prune this rub with an all-purpose tree and shrub fertilizer. One application a year is enough.

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Palm Trunk Problem at the Base

Q. My palm trees in the back yard seem to have a problem with the trunk next to the ground.  Not sure what is wrong, too much water, bugs, I need help.  These are large palm trees and I would not like to lose them.  I have attached some photos.  I have four large palm trees with this problem. A. This is typically not a problem for palms because there biology is different from most other trees. Because palms are monocots a lot of this so-called wood from the outside can slough off without much of a problem. In fact what you are seeing is fairly common. Make sure when you irrigate these plants that you keep the water away from the trunk and do not water them daily. I would be watering them about 2 to 3 feet from the trunk, not up close to the trunk. These should be watered like any other nondesert tree.

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Leaf Cutter Bees Destroying Leaves on Roses

Q. We have six rose bushes in our yard in Centennial Hills that have been attacked by cutter bees. The leaves have been decimated on our rose bushes. While they don’t seem to destroy the roses on the bushes, they were leaving a path of destruction on almost every single leaf on our rose bushes. We tried everything but to no avail. In fact, several “remedies” we tried, which we found online, seemed to harm the bushes and didn’t even phase the bees at all. We’ve learned these bees are indestructible and NOTHING works to kill OR discourage them to go elsewhere!! They have somewhat subsided for now but their destructive behavior lasted for several months; from spring through early August. Our rose bushes are starting to recover but we know next spring they’ll be back!! Any suggestions??? A. I have talked about these guys on my blog so I would like to direct you there.Yes, they can be destructive but there are also extremely good pollinators for our vegetable and fruit crops. Somehow we need to find a balance between their benefits for ourselves and our neighbors while minimizing or distributing some of their damage. The Leafcutter bees are gathering nesting materials for making babies. http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/05/leafcutter-bee-perfect-circles-now-seen.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/05/leafcutter-bees-will-probably-use.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2011/07/mason-bees-probably-not-best-choice-for.html

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Newly Planted Tree Shows Leaf Death and Die Back

Q. About three weeks ago I bought and planted a 12 X12 crepe myrtle tree. I used grow mulch and compost watering it once a day since then. Now the tree branches seem to be losing its leaves. Could I be over watering the tree?  What could you suggest I do to make sure the tree grows healthy?  Small crepe Myrtle tree, Not the readers A. Why would you tree have yellowing or scorching leaves that are falling off? Plant got too dry at the nursery before it was delivered Plant was delivered in an open truck and the leaves were battered by the wind Plant got too dry before it was put in the ground Plant was put into a dry hole and the roots became desiccated or dried out for water was applied. This can happen in minutes. Plant root ball fell apart when it was put into the planting holeSalt levels were too high in the soil or the planting mix or both and not leached with enough water at the time of planting Watering daily after it was planted Not watering often enough or with enough water after it was planted At the time of planting, the soil in the hole, and all of its contents, should be wet. The soil should be checked to make sure that it drains several inches of water in no more than a few hours. If the soil drains adequately, the hole needs to be dug no deeper than the box. In our desert soils with extremely low organic matter, it is best to use the soil that was dug from the hole and amend it with a planter mix amendment in a ratio of about 1:1 by volume. To help prevent transplant shock the tree should be planted as soon as humanly possible after delivery. To help prevent transplant shock further the tree should be planted into a hole that was wet and allowed to drain. The wooden box must be removed from around the root ball at the time of planting. This is done by leaning the tree over on its side, removing the bottom of the wooden box, pushing it back to an upright position, lowering it carefully into the hole, removing the rest of the box, and adding the backfill. Box tree planted in the landscape. The bottom of the box is removed before placing it gently into the hole. Sides of the container is removed, the root ball is watered and the amended backfill is used to fill the hole, watering the hole as the backfill is added. As the amended backfill soil is added to the hole, water from a hose should be running into the planting hole keeping everything inside wet. After planting, a donut shaped basin 4 inches high should be constructed around the perimeter of the planting hole. Fill this basin twice every time you irrigate for the first two weeks after planting. Fill the basin approximately every three days. I would not rely on a drip irrigation system for delivering the water needed by the tree immediately after planting. After 2 to 3 weeks you can begin to wean the tree from water applied by the hose and begin to integrate your drip irrigation into your watering cycle. You would do this by putting the drip irrigation on a normal schedule for landscape trees in our climate and continue to fill the basin once a week to supplement the drip irrigation and removal of any high levels of salts from the soils. Some landscape companies leave the drip irrigation to come on daily to try and accomplish the same thing but that can be dangerous because they don’t tell the homeowner to reset the clock or they forget to reset it themselves. Three things you must regulate when you irrigate:  how much you apply at each irrigation,  how often the irrigation is applied and  the time of day water is applied.  Make sure your drip irrigation system is applying enough water every time it comes on. It is difficult to tell you the number of minutes this equals without knowing the number of drip emitters and their gallons per hour rates of water application. The other thing needed is the size of the tree; its height and the size of its container. How often your irrigation system delivers water depends on the time of year and the type of plant. Trees and large shrubs are watered less often than anything else in the landscape. This time of year we are beginning to cool so applying water twice a week, as long is it is enough water, will be often enough. Time of day the application is made is the least critical feature. However, ideally the irrigation should come on just prior to the heat of the day.

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Intensive Indoor Crop Production Webcast Today

Presentation today at 4:00 p.m. MST by SPLS student Connor Osgood.  See links below for the Webcast. “Intensive Indoor Crop Production” Connor Osgood,  SPLS Student will offer a special presentation at the Controlled Environment Agriculture Building (CEAC) 1951 E. Roger Road Wednesday, September 10, 2014, 4:00 – 5:00 PM “An Internship Completed:  Experiences in the World of Intensive Indoor Crop Production Using Hydroponics and LED Lighting at a Vertical Farm”  The presentation will be webcast at: for attendees without UA ID: http://elluminate.oia.arizona.edu/scheduleMeetingnonetid.php?sessionId=3097228 [please allow a few minutes prior to start of the talk  to prepare the Elluminate software] Contact Dr. Gene Giacomelli, [email protected]  or  Terry Albertson, [email protected] 520/626-9566 for more information Organized and Supported by the Controlled Environment Agriculture Center, The University of Arizona College of Agriculture and Life Sciences

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Why Does My Ash Tree Have Dying Limbs?

Q. I have two, twenty-year-old ash trees that appear to be dying. I have attached pictures. The smaller tree is a Modesto Ash and it started losing limbs about a year ago. The bark is now separating and it looks like an old stump with a few sprouts. The other is a Rayburn Ash. It just began having limbs die this summer but is accelerating. I am also noticing ash trees all over our neighborhood in the same condition. What is happening and what can I do to save these beauties? A. I’m sorry to hear about your ash trees. This is a fairly common problem with ash trees in our desert Southwest. I have been dealing with this problem, mostly on Modesto Ash, for about 30 years. I no longer encourage people to plant ash trees in our climate. Plant samples have been sent to several plant pathology laboratories over the years and no one has been able to find a disease problem. We have been calling it ash tree decline but we do not know why it is happening. Fertilizer applications and increasing the water does not seem to help. Modesto ash with limb dieback The trees seem to dieback from a lack of water to some of the limbs but no one is certain why. At this point all I can tell you is to remove them when they get to the point when they become a problem to public safety or they just look bad. The one in the side yard could have suffered from a lack of water from the picture. Modesto Ash in particular would benefit from wood mulch applied to the surface and given liberal amounts of water. Check for borers underneath the bark that pulls away from the trunk. I suspect the trees may have been stressed either from the decline or water. This is a prime target for boring insects trying to finish off the tree.Once trees are heavily stressed there is not much you can do to prevent a borer attack to the tree. They will infest the tree and finish it off.

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Black Ooze from Eucalyptus Might Be New Problem

Q. I have an ornamental Eucalyptus tree in my back yard that is 20′ tall and facing west.  It has been steadily losing leaves and branches the past two years.  There is a black sap that has been oozing sap through the bark. It crystalizes into a hard substances.  Can you provide a diagnosis and treatment? Not the readers, but this is a eucalyptus and many have a similar form. A. Your description of this problem about your Eucalyptus bothers me. The loss of leaves, the branches dying back coupled with black sap that oozes through the bark is a very good sign of Eucalyptus borer. What does Eucalyptus borer look like? To my knowledge, this insect is not been reported in southern Nevada. It has caused a lot of destruction in Eucalyptus in California. I would consult this information from California: Information on Eucalyptus borer I am paraphrasing now from California information: “Holes in the bark and stains or oozing liquid on limbs or trunks are common symptoms of longhorned borer damage. When this borer is a problem, leaves can discolor and wilt, and limbs can die back.” “Longhorned borers usually attack stressed or damaged plants, leaving vigorous, appropriately watered trees alone. In California, however, many eucalyptus trees are seasonally water stressed during hot summer months, rendering a significant proportion of them susceptible to beetle attack. Tree species with some resistance to these wood borers can produce copious amounts of resin in response to an attack.” “Extensive larval feeding beneath the bark can spread around the entire circumference of a tree, girdling, or completely removing a strip of bark from, the trunk. Trees at this stage of infestation have a thin canopy with wilted or dry leaves, and the bark is cracked and packed with larval excrement. Infested trees usually die within of a few weeks of girdling, although resprouting can occur from the tree base.” What does this borers damage look like? If you believe this could possibly be the problem I would hope that you would contact the Nevada Department of Agriculture and start asking some questions.They might ask you to send up samples Carson City for identification by the entomologist. This borer usually attacks trees that are not getting enough water or are not being watered often enough or both. Nevada Department of Agriculture in Las Vegas: 702-486-4690

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Don’t Pick Pink Lady Apples Yet

Q. I have a Pink Lady apple tree that is very young with about 6 apples on it. They are green.  How do I know when to pick them? Pink Lady apple in late November A. The fruit will ripen all on their own. Wait until at least mid-November before picking them for best quality and highest sugar content. Hopefully you thinned them to get good some size and kept watering them when needed so lack of water does not affect their size or development. Pink lady Apple fruit stays green for a long time until it’s ready to harvest. The brown spot on the green apple is due to a puncture wound They can hang on the tree until about mid-December but by Dec 1 you should be thinking of harvesting them. Harvest earlier than this if you start to see bird damage.

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